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Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry

Van Cleef & Arpels (France)
Van Cleef & Arpels (France)

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than jewelry whose primary aim was the display of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce pieces that projected the wearer’s taste and style — winning the house a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpel. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.) Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, the firm distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels bracelets, necklaces, earrings and other accessories on 1stDibs.

Iconic Designs from Van Cleef & Arpels
Explore timeless pieces that have earned their place in history.
Vintage Alhambra Ring
Vintage Alhambra Ring
Vintage Alhambra Earrings
Vintage Alhambra Earrings
Interplay of Gold and Stones
Interplay of Gold and Stones
Magic Alhambra Necklace
Magic Alhambra Necklace
Applied Filters4 results
Creator:Van Cleef & Arpels
Dealer:Empire Antiques
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Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Bracelet with Pink Tourmaline and Amethyst
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New Orleans, LA
Van Cleef and Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Bracelet with Gem Stones. Van Cleef and Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Bracelet with Gem Stones. There are three square cut pink tourmalines and two squa...
Category

Mid-19th Century Contemporary Antique Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry

Materials

Amethyst, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire and 18k Gold Brooch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New Orleans, LA
Category

Mid-20th Century Retro Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry

Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Bracelet with Gem Stones
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New Orleans, LA
Category

Late 20th Century Contemporary Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry

Van Cleef & Arpels Bangle Bracelet with Amethyst and Peridot
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New Orleans, LA
Category

Late 20th Century Contemporary Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry

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