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Van Cleef & Arpels

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpel. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, the Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.

Iconic Designs from Van Cleef & Arpels
Explore timeless pieces that have earned their place in history.
Vintage Alhambra Ring
Vintage Alhambra Ring
Vintage Alhambra Necklace
Vintage Alhambra Necklace
Vintage Alhambra Pendant
Vintage Alhambra Pendant
Fleurette Ring
Fleurette Ring
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Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Gold & White Diamond Case
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Rare and beautiful 1950s -60s Van Cleef & Arpels 18K 750 Gold case. Features a woven basket pattern with White Diamonds encrusted clasp. Total weight 136 grams Interior features a...
Category

1950s Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Gold Lighter
By Van Cleef & Arpels, Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Category

1970s Van Cleef & Arpels

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Previously Available Items
Van Cleef & Arpels Pocket Mirror w/ Tassel Pouch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Pocket Mirror w/ Tassel Pouch Color: Black Hardware: Silvertone Materials: Glass mirror, acetate Overall Condition: Very good pre-owned condition, with the except...
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21st Century and Contemporary Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels Silk Scarf by Rene Gruau
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Lovely yellow silk scarf with a Rene Gruau Illustration of a chic Parisienne by Van Cleef & Arpels. 33" x 33" Hand rolled edges.
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1970s Van Cleef & Arpels

Reserved Sale Pending Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Sleek Chrome Vanity Tray
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****RESERVED SALE PENDING FOR JOHN*** Van Cleef & Arpels Paris sleek chrome vanity tray c 1990 The art deco inspired rectangular tray is accented with gilt metal trim on the sid...
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Questions About Van Cleef & Arpels
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Van Cleef & Arpels is so expensive because it is a well-known company that has a fantastic reputation. Van Cleef & Arpels are universally renowned for high quality jewelry with a focus on detail. High-profile fans of the French jewelry house over the years have included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor and many more. Find an extraordinary range of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.