Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s English Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver
1940s Japanese Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Enamel
1980s Finnish Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver, Steel
Late 19th Century Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver
Early 20th Century Japanese Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver
1920s Austrian Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Onyx, Gold, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s Czech Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Garnet, Silver
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Oriental Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Gilt Metal, Mixed Metal, Silver Plate, Brass, Bronze
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s British Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Gold
1910s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver, Steel
Mid-20th Century French Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Gold Plate, Silver Plate, Brass, Bronze, Gilt Metal
1920s American Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver
20th Century English Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold
Mid-20th Century Spanish Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver
1940s French Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Rock Crystal, Bronze
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver Plate
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Early 1900s British Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver
1910s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver, Steel
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Gold Plate
1920s German Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Amethyst, Pearl, Gold, 10k Gold
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Bronze
1980s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Rose Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Brass, Enamel
1930s American Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Pearl, Brass
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver
Late 19th Century British Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Late 19th Century European Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Gold, Enamel, Gold Plate
Late 19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Crystal, Brass
Early 20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Amazonite, Marcasite, Sterling Silver, Gilt Metal
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Silver
20th Century English Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Diamond, Gold
20th Century English Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Russian Antique Art Nouveau Objets d'Art and Vertu
Carnelian, Quartz, Gold, Enamel