Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Early 20th Century Russian Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Gold, Enamel
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Fire Opal, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Diamond, Citrine, Gold, 14k Gold
1980s Spanish Vintage Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Diamond, Onyx, Ruby, Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Bronze
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Silver
1930s Vintage Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
1890s German Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Silver
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Mixed Metal
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Bronze
Early 1900s Russian Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Quartz, Carnelian, Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Silver
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Rose Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century British Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Sterling Silver, Enamel
20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Silver, Enamel
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
14k Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
14k Gold
1980s Hong Kong Vintage Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Jade
1880s German Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Silver
1930s American Vintage Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Gold, 14k Gold
1950s Vintage Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
14k Gold, Gold
1960s Swiss Vintage Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Brass
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Gold, 9k Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Bronze
19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Gold, 18k Gold
Early 1900s British Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Silver
1910s Russian Vintage Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Agate, Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Late 19th Century German Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Gold Plate, Steel, Stainless Steel, 24k Gold
Late 19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Diamond, Bronze, Gilt Metal
Late 19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Silver
Early 1900s British Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
Sterling Silver
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
18k Gold
Late 19th Century American Antique Art Nouveau Desk Accessories
14k Gold