Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Two Art Nouveau Imperial Russian I.Khlebnikov Glass Holders 84Silver / 250gr
Located in SE
A pair of wonderful Art Nouveau-styled Russian 84 Silver Tea Glass Holders made in Moscow at the workshop of a very famous and one of the finest manufacturers of Russian Silver of th...
Silver
1901 Two Art Nouveau Glass Holders solid 830 Silver / 320 gr
Located in SE
A pair of wonderful early Art Nouveau period Swedish Gilt Silver Tea Glass Holders made in Stockholm at the workshop of C.G. Hallberg - one of the finest manufacturers of Swedish...
Silver
Imperial Russian 84 Silver Zolotnik Cordial Cups - set of 2#22631
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Imperial Russian 84 Silver Zolotnik Cordial Cups - set of 2 These beautiful set of two imperial Russian .817 silver cordial cups are hand engraved with etched geometric motifs hall...
Silver
$1,250
H 1.33 in Dm 2.16 in
Antique Russian Imperial Silver & Cloisonne Enamel Salt Cellar by Shaposhnikov
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine antique Russian salt cellar. By Sergey Shaposhnikov. With polychrome cloisonné enamel decoration throughout. Fully marked to the base. Simply a wonderful piece of Imp...
Silver, Enamel
George II Sterling Silver Coffee Pot Likely by William Skeen
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
A fine George II sterling silver coffee pot with a wooden handle, floral repousse details and a crest with rubbed maker's mark likely for William Skeen. The coffee pot is very much i...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Georg Jensen Sterling Silver 5 Piece Tea Service in Pattern 80
By Georg Jensen
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
A five-piece tea and coffee service in sterling silver with ebony handles and finials in Georg Jensen's pattern 80, designed in 1915, hallmarked for a post-1945 manufacture. While Jensen's reverence for traditional Danish design and interest in themes of nature were often married in equal part to the popular Art...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Antique Norwegian Silver Cloisonné Enamel Demitasse Cup & Saucer Set
Located in New York, NY
A rare and exquisite find for collectors of fine European silver and decorative arts, this Antique Norwegian Silver and Cloisonné Enamel Demit...
Silver, Enamel
Moiseikin Silver Giraffe Spoon Gift for Baby and Children
By MOISEIKIN
Located in Hong Kong, HK
The Giraffe spoon of the MOISEIKIN® is made of 925 sterling silver with indium, rhodium and careful gilding. Adding indium preserves the glossy look and its durability and a thin layer of metal from the platinum group - rhodium makes the spoon more shiny. The handle of the spoon is stylised as the shape of an animal’s neck, decorated with a pattern imitating its spotted golden-silver skin and decorated with a silver head of a giraffe. The tradition of giving a child a silver spoon for the appearance of the first milk tooth has long lived in Russia and other countries. It was considered "investment in a child's future." A spoon is given as a sign that it’s time for the baby to move from mother’s milk to another meal. Usually teeth come out by 6 months, which coincides with the time of the beginning of feeding. The spoon “Giraffe” will help feed the baby a new meal for him. Thanks to the healing properties of silver, the spoon will have an antibacterial effect. “Grow big and tall...
Gold Plate, Silver
Antique Imperial Russian Silver & Cloisonne Enamel Spoon
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine Russian silver & enamel spoon. With polychrome cloisonné enamel decoration to both the front and reverse. Simply a wonderful piece of Russian sil...
Silver, Enamel
Imperial Russian Silver & Cloisonné Enamel Tea or Kvosh Spoon
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine antique Russian tea or kvosh spoon. Additional Details: Possibly by Alexsander Krivovichev. (The maker's mark is partly obliterated). With polychrome cloisonné enamel d...
Silver, Enamel
Russian Silver Plate Samovar with Tray Set
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
- The set is made out of silver plate with celluloid/ bone details - The samovar features floral & geometric motifs - The tray stamped with makers marks that are a little worn off (З...
Silver Plate
$695
W 0.91 in D 0.36 in L 4.41 in
Antique Imperial Russian Silver & Cloisonne Enamel Tea or Kvosh Spoon
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine antique Russian tea or kvosh spoon. With polychrome cloisonné enamel decoration to both the front and reverse. Simply a wonderful piece of Imperial Russian silver! Dat...
Silver, Enamel
Antique Christofle French Silver Plated Tea Strainer
By Christofle
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine French silver plated tea strainer. By Christofle et Cie. With a pierced and scalloped body, curved legs, ball feet and a turned wooden handle. Simply a wonderful, high-lev...
Silver Plate
Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti 925 Sterling Silver Padova Baby Cup
Located in Houston, TX
Brand: Tiffany & Co. Metal Type: 925 Sterling Silver Height: 2.50 inches Diameter: 2.50 inches Weight: 95.48 grams Silver classic-style cup. The metal was tested and determi...
Sterling Silver
Archibald Knox Liberty Tea Set and Tray, circa 1906
Located in Toronto, ON
Archibald Knox Liberty Tudric hammered pewter tea set, C.1906.Teapot, cream jug and sugar, each of compressed oval form with relief whiplash curved celtic ornament interlace decoration, original wicker handle and button to teapot. Stamped 6 Made in England Tudric Pewter 0231. See pp48 and 110 Archibald Knox by Stephen Martin; Together with rare Archibald Knox Liberty Pewter...