Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Sterling Silver Floral Fork with VS Diamonds
Located in BADALONA, ES
Decorative fork crafted in sterling silver, featuring a sculptural floral motif set with nine natural VS diamonds. The handle is shaped with flowing organic lines, balancing function...
Diamond, Sterling Silver
1908 Art Nouveau Imperial Russian Bowl S.Shaposhnikov solid 84 Silver / 151gr
Located in SE
Russian Silver Bowl with continuous hand- engraved Art Nouveau styled floral decorations, hand - made between 1899 - 1908. Russian Imperial period 84 Silver hallmarks with a head of...
Sterling Silver, Silver
Georg Jensen Denmark Acorn Sterling Silver Handle Cake Knife w/Engraving #22988
By Georg Jensen
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Georg Jensen Denmark Acorn Sterling Silver Handle Cake Knife with Engraving Engraved Amy & Peter April 1, 1967 The Acorn pattern was introduced in 1915 as a collaboration between G...
Sterling Silver
1901 Two Art Nouveau Glass Holders solid 830 Silver / 320 gr
Located in SE
A pair of wonderful early Art Nouveau period Swedish Gilt Silver Tea Glass Holders made in Stockholm at the workshop of C.G. Hallberg - one of the finest manufacturers of Swedish...
Silver
L. C. Tiffany Louis Comfort Tiffany Gold Favrile Glass Bowl Circa 1880s
Located in Westport, CT
This exquisite Louis Comfort Tiffany Favrile glass bowl is a true masterpiece of American Art Nouveau craftsmanship, Circa 1882. This rare and elegant piece shimmers with a stunning iridescent gold hue, enhanced by delicate undertones of pink, blue, and purple that dance across its surface in different lighting. Hand-blown and signed "1882 P 1402 L. C. Tiffany...", this bowl is a testament to Tiffany’s pioneering artistry in Favrile glass, which became renowned for its rich luster and mesmerizing color shifts. A perfect addition for collectors of fine antique glass or those who appreciate the timeless beauty of Tiffany’s work. Don’t miss this chance to own a piece of history—an extraordinary fusion of light, color, and craftsmanship! Weight/Measurements: - Gross Weight: 332.60 Grams - Top Diameter: 6.60 Inches - Base Diameter: 3.27 Inches - Height: 2.35 Inches Magnificent Louis Comfort Tiffany Favrile Iridescent Gold Glass Bowl (Circa 1882) Keywords: Louis Comfort Tiffany glass bowl, Favrile iridescent glass, Tiffany art glass bowl...
Pair of French Art Nouveau Silver Plated Flower Vases S. Anon. Orfévrerie Ercuis
Located in OVIEDO, AS
Pair of French Art Nouveau Silver Plated Flower Vases (1910-1920). Standing on foot, made fine French silversmith, adorned with geometrical patterns and vegetal ornamentation. In gre...
Silver Plate
Two Art Nouveau Imperial Russian I.Khlebnikov Glass Holders 84Silver / 250gr
Located in SE
A pair of wonderful Art Nouveau-styled Russian 84 Silver Tea Glass Holders made in Moscow at the workshop of a very famous and one of the finest manufacturers of Russian Silver of th...
Silver
Georg Jensen Acorn Sterling Silver Coffee Spoon & Hors D'Oeuvres Fork #18329
By Georg Jensen
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Vintage Georg Jensen Denmark sterling silver coffee spoon and hors d'oeuvres fork in the Acorn pattern. No monogram. The Acorn pattern was introduced in 1915 as a collaboration be...
Sterling Silver
Sterling Silver Art Nouveau Bowl by William B. Kerr
By Kerr
Located in Troy, MI
William B. Kerr was a manufacturer of flatware, hollow-ware & jewelry from 1880's - 1927 before it was absorbed by Gorham. They were well regarded for their Art Nouveau style in thei...
Sterling Silver
Silver & Crystal Mermaid Caviar Server “Enchantress of the Sea”
Located in ראשון לציון, IL
This exceptional sculptural caviar server, titled “Enchantress of the Sea,” is a celebration of maritime fantasy, refined craftsmanship, and ceremonial table art. At its heart is a ...
Crystal, Silver
10 Danish Silver Butterfly Sommerflugl Art Nouveau Demitasse Spoons by Frigast
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine set of 10 Danish silver demitasse spoons. In the Butterfly or Sommerflugl pattern. By Frigast. With Danish assay marks for 1919 and a minimum silver fineness of 826/1000. M...
Silver
Whiting Sterling Silver Hand Hammered Art Nouveau Liquor or Perfume Flask
By Whiting
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A wonderful, antique sterling silver Art Nouveau flask by Whiting. With a hand-hammered finish, scalloped sides, swirl decoration to the tops and bo...
Sterling Silver
Sterling Silver Lily of the Valley Spoon with Sculptural Leaf Detail
Located in BADALONA, ES
This sculptural spoon is handcrafted in sterling silver, inspired by the delicate form of the lily of the valley flower. The handle curves gracefully into a sculpted leaf, with fine ...
Sterling Silver
$520Sale Price|20% Off
Queen Margrethe Sterling Cup by Anton Michelsen
Located in Montreal, QC
Queen Margrethe sterling silver cup by Anton Michelsen, Denmark. It is hallmarked on the base. The cup measures 2 1/2 inches x 2 3/4 inches wide. It co...
Silver
Antique William B. Kerr Sterling Silver Art Nouveau Gibson Girl Belt Buckle
Located in New York, NY
Exquisite 19th Century Art Nouveau Sterling Silver Brooch. This stunning brooch is crafted in sterling silver, featuring an intricate design of a woman's profile surrounded by flowin...
Sterling Silver
Webster 1930's Sterling Silver with Maker's Mark Miniature Tong
Located in New York, NY
Webster 1930's of Mass., US, sterling silver miniature tong, with their iconic maker's mark engraved measures 3 1/8 inches by 1 inch, and a width measuring 1/2 inch. Made in USA.
Vintage Sterling Silver Flask
Located in Coeur d Alene, ID
Vintage sterling silver flask with extendable shot glass lid. This wonderful flask features outstanding silver work of leaves and flowers...
Sterling Silver
Chrysanthemum by Tiffany Sterling Silver Claret Ladle Twist Handle
Located in New York, NY
A wonderful sterling silver claret ladle Chrysanthemum (circa 1880) Tiffany's luxurious Chrysanthemum silver was designed in 1880 by Charles Grosjean. Wit...
Sterling Silver
Art-Nouveau 1940's Silver Plated Claret Jug by Topazio Casquinha, Portugal.
Located in MELBOURNE, AU
Art-Nouveau 1940's Silver Plated Claret / Wine Jug Maker’s mark: Topazio Casquinha Portuguese hallmarks Height: 27cm Width (at the base): 13.5cm In beautiful condition
Silver Plate
Antique Jugendstil W.M.F. Silver Plated Punch Bowl or Tureen with a Hunt Scene
By WMF Württembergische Metallwarenfabrik
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine German Jugendstil punch bowl or tureen (or "Bowle" in German). By W.M.F., the Württembergische Metallwarenfabrik. In silver plate. With a three-dimensional depiction of Dia...
Silver Plate
Antique Art Nouveau Bailey Banks & Biddle Sterling Silver Tulip Flower Bud Vase
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique sterling silver bud vase. In the form of a single tall tulip emerging from a monogrammed circular base. Retailed by B...
Sterling Silver
Pair of Antique Shiebler Gilt Sterling Silver Lily Pad Salt Cellars or Bowls
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine pair of antique salt cellars or dishes. By Shiebler. In gilt sterling silver. In the form of a stylized lily pad. These small gitl bow...
Sterling Silver
1918 Cup solid Gilt 830 Silver / 137 gr
Located in SE
Handsome Swedish hand - made Cup on three ball shaped feet. Thick and firm walls decorated with fruits and leaves ornaments both hammered and engraved. Swedish hallmarks confirming ...
Silver
Black Starr & Frost Antique Fine Silver Overlay Crystal Decanter
Located in Mount Kisco, NY
Magnificent antique cut crystal decanter with .999 fine silver overlay for Black Starr & Frost. This early century art nouveau style piece...
Silver
1903 Antique Art Nouveau Hydrangea Repousse Sterling Silver Bowl by Alvin
Located in Troy, MI
Beautiful hydrangea's adorn this gorgeous Art Nouveau ( circa 1903 ) repousse bowl, pattern# 1082. Repousse is a method of hammered into relief from the reverse side in metalwork. Bo...
Sterling Silver
Georg Jensen Denmark Acorn All Sterling Silver Pie Server #22987
By Georg Jensen
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Georg Jensen Denmark Acorn All Sterling Silver Pie Server This beautiful pie server is crafted entirely in sterling silver and features a lightly hammered blade. The Acorn pattern w...
Sterling Silver
Danish Silver Butterfly Sommerflugl Art Nouveau Dinner Spoon by Frigast
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine Danish silver dinner spoon. In the Butterfly or Sommerflugl pattern. By Frigast. With Danish assay marks for 1919 and a minimum silver fineness of 826/1000. Marked for the ...
Silver
$935Sale Price|25% Off
Archibald Knox Liberty & Co. Enamel Basket, English, circa 1900
Located in Toronto, ON
Archibald Knox for Liberty & Co, English C.1900. Tudric pewter and turquoise enamel basket, pierced honesty leaf decoration, open work sides and base, the handle embellished with lea...
Enamel
1915 Sterling Silver 3"X 2.25"X 1/2" Antique English Snuff & Pill Box
Located in Santa Monica, CA
Antique English Snuff & Pill Box All original with very minor dents or scratches, weighting 31.9 grams Vintage English Snuff or Pill Box, in excellent condition considering 100 y...
Sterling Silver
Sterling Silver Repousse Butter Pat by S. Kirk & Son
Located in Troy, MI
In 1815 Samuel Kirk opened a neighborhood silver store in Baltimore, what would eventually become the Kirk Stieff Corporation, the oldest surviving, highly prestigious silver company in the U.S. Kirk silver, or “Baltimore silver” is instantly recognizable by its hand-crafted repousse technique – hammering the reverse side of silver to produce an intricate design in low relief -- which Samuel Kirk introduced to America in 1828. Customers especially desired his repousee tea services, bowls, and flatware with elaborate floral patterns and architectural images. Kirks’ reputation for meticulous craftsmanship and innovative design spread nationwide; famous assignments included renovating 550 pieces of gold...
Sterling Silver
Georg Jensen Denmark Fuchsia Sterling Silver Caddy/Sugar Spoon #19468
By Georg Jensen
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Sterling silver caddy or sugar spoon in the Fuchsia pattern by Georg Jensen. Designed by Georg Jenson in 1906, the Art Nouveau pattern features a floral design which was very popula...
Sterling Silver
Whiting Sterling Co. 19th Century Flask
Art Nouveau Sterling Silver Knife with Sculptural Floral Handle
Located in BADALONA, ES
Decorative knife crafted in sterling silver, featuring an elongated blade and a sculptural handle inspired by organic floral forms. The flowing lines and asymmetrical composition ref...
Sterling Silver
Silver Sugar Bowl Austria- Hungary 19th Century
Located in Montreal, QC
Silver art nouveau sugar bowl made in Austria-Hungary between 1872-1922. Dimension 15cm H x 13 1/2 cm W x 11 cm D. Weight 591 gr, comes with loc...
Silver
Georg Jensen, Sterling Silver Comport by Johan Rohde
By Georg Jensen
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
This rather beautiful sterling silver comport was made by Georg Jensen in a design by the famed craftsman Johan Rohde. The piece was first designed betw...
Sterling Silver
Ladies Pressed Glass and Sterling Flask
Located in Coeur d Alene, ID
Ladies pressed glass flask with sterling silver cap. Flask itself is made fully of glass with flat bottom. An elegant swirling design is shaped into the glass using a manual pressing...
Sterling Silver
19th Century Sterling and Glass Decanter
Located in Coeur d Alene, ID
Beautiful 19th Century sterling and glass decanter with original stopper. Sterling overlaid glass with foliate and lattice design. Shows us...
Sterling Silver