Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Antique Art Nouveau Bailey Banks & Biddle Sterling Silver Tulip Flower Bud Vase
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique sterling silver bud vase. In the form of a single tall tulip emerging from a monogrammed circular base. Retailed by B...
Sterling Silver
Pair of French Art Nouveau Silver Plated Flower Vases S. Anon. Orfévrerie Ercuis
Located in OVIEDO, AS
Pair of French Art Nouveau Silver Plated Flower Vases (1910-1920). Standing on foot, made fine French silversmith, adorned with geometrical patterns and vegetal ornamentation. In gre...
Silver Plate
$2,700Sale Price|40% Off
Sterling Silver European Estate Rococo Hammered Frame with Cherubs
Located in New York, NY
The Following Item we are offering is a Beautiful European Estate Rococo Sterling Picture Frame with Hand Hammered Embossed Cherubs holding Wreaths of Garland and Floral Motifs. Sign...
Sterling Silver
Diminutive Kay Ivankovic Sterling Silver & Opal Gemstone Vase
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A wonderful 1980's handmade sterling silver vase. By Kay Ivankovic. Kay Ivankovic, the high-level contemporary British silversmith, is known for her flowing, organic forms. This hand-chased vase...
Opal, Sterling Silver
Cartier Sterling Silver Hammered Carafe/Vase with Engraving
By Cartier
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Vintage sterling silver carafe/vase by Cartier with engraving. Engraving says "WILLIAM P. SCHLOTH STARTED DECEMBER 26, 1955 AND GOING STRONG" ...
Sterling Silver
$1,000Sale Price|86% Off
Exquisite Museum Quality Pair Sevres Porcelain Cobalt Blue Bronze Vases Urns
Located in New York, NY
The Following Items we are offering are A Rare Pair of 19th Century Sevres Style Cobalt Blue Porcelain Ground Vase with Gilt Mounting. Each Finely Detailed with Beautiful Portraits o...
Bronze
$1,800Sale Price|76% Off
Rare Exquisite 19TH Century Large French Sterling Silver Floral Vase
Located in New York, NY
The Following Item we are offering is a Rare Monumental 19th Century Large Sterling Silver Vase having fine scrolling detail. Stamped Sterling on bottom. Taken out of a Several Milli...
Sterling Silver
$2,800Sale Price|77% Off
Pair of Original 1920's Outstanding Pair of Rare Gilt Bronze Table Top Lamps
Located in New York, NY
The Following Item we are offering is an Outstanding Pair of Rare Gilt Bronze Table Top Lamps, Exquisitely adorned with Finely Detailed Mounted ...
Gold, Bronze
$731Sale Price|25% Off
H 5.65 in W 1.4 in D 1.4 in L 5.65 in
Cartier Pair of Weighted Sterling Silver Bud Vases, Height 5 3/8"
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Bring timeless luxury and refined French elegance to your home décor with this pair of authentic Cartier weighted sterling silver bud vases. Expertly crafted with Cartier's renowned ...
Silver, Sterling Silver
$2,400Sale Price|40% Off
Rare Exquisite Estate Art Deco Lalique Opalescent Leaf Frosted Glass Vase
Located in New York, NY
The Following Items we are offering is a Rare LALIQUE Mosaic Vase. Vase features an opalescent leaf design, stenciled "Lalique France" . There is a ti...
Crystal
$124,900
H 17.5 in Dm 9 in
A Rare Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver and Mixed Metal Python Snake Trophy Vase
Located in Long Island City, NY
A Rare Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Python Trophy Vase: A Masterpiece of Mixed Metal Artistry, circa 1880 Presenting a truly exceptional Tiffany &a...
Sterling Silver, Mixed Metal
Georg Jensen Sterling Silver 107B Tumbler/Beaker/Vase
By Georg Jensen
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Vintage sterling silver beaker/tumbler cup/vase by Georg Jensen pattern #107B. No monogram or engraving This simple and elegant tumbler features a flare design with a lightly hamme...
Sterling Silver
Art Deco La Pierre Babylonian Mixed Metals Sterling Silver & Copper Vase
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine Art Deco mixed metals vase. From the La Pierre Manufacturing Company's 'Babylonian' line. In sterling silver and copper. Consisting of a copper body with a wide sterling silver neck and rim and a sterling silver ferrule. With a lovely burnt red-orange patina to the copper. Founded in 1885 in New York City by Frank H. LaPierre, the LaPierre Manufacturing Company were makers of high quality sterling silver wares...
Sterling Silver, Copper, Mixed Metal
$10,000Sale Price|60% Off
Pair of 19th Century Bronze Ormolu Signed German Porcelain Flower Encrust Vases
Located in New York, NY
The Following Item we are offering are a Pair of Rare and Important Estate Ormolu Mounted European Porcelain Flower Encrusted Urn Vases and Covers Signed with Spurious Blue Crossed S...
Gold, Bronze
Trio of Antique Etched Glass Repousse Silver Vanity Vessels
Located in Mount Kisco, NY
Enjoy this stunning three piece set of German-made antique etched glass and silver repousse vessels as a beautiful addition your vanity set or as ...
Silver
Paul Dachsel Austria Amphora Art Nouveau Vases
Located in Portland, England
We are offering this large and monumental Art Nouveau pair of naturalistic baluster vases by Paul Dachsel dated c. 1893-1905 with extraordinary light green/olive and cream matt glazing with applied detailing of an acorn, oak leaf, and oak branches decorated with acorns. Around a central amphora vase is a beautifully detailed oak decorated with olive and moss greens accented by umber and gold gild seen on the top of the leaves and the acorns. Both vases have brown, partially gilded two-ear handles shaped in the form of naturalistic branches. The long, wide neck joins the body of the vase in a delicate gourd form decorated with linear inspired by the voluptuous, organic Art Nouveau style. Marked on the base, imprinted in clay with the firm's mark encased in an oval: 'AUSTRIA' 'AMPHORA' with a crown, style number: '0580', decorator's mark: '43'; measuring: 35 cm height, width in the central part of the vase approx. 25 cm, length of the neck approx. 12 cm. Paul Dachsel was the son-in-law of Alfred Stellmacher...
Art Nouveau French Paul Louchet Bronze Table Lamp
Located in Portland, England
An exceptional and rare Art Nouveau Paul Louchet porcelain and bronze table lamp. The body of the lamp is covered in a dark green, blue, and brown glaze resting on a very well-cast b...
Bronze
Art Nouveau Sterling Overlay Green Vase, American, C.1910
Located in Toronto, ON
Art Nouveau Sterling overlay green Vase, American C.1910. Tapered bulbous form, the lower section with art nouveau sterling overlay decorative surround, the green glass slightly tape...
1915 Gorham Sterling Silver Ewer Hambletonian Race Trophy Goshen, NY
By Gorham
Located in Cape May, NJ
This is an important and very early piece of American horse racing history. Goshen, New York is where the original Hambletonian 10 started from in the 1850's. This massive piece is s...
Sterling Silver
Art Nouveau Sterling Silver and Bronze Mixed Metal Vase
Located in San Antonio, TX
Sterling silver on bronze mixed metal vase. Approximately 3.75" tall X 3.00" wide at base. Signed : Sterling on bronze, Pat.Aug. 27. 12. Serial number.
Bronze, Sterling Silver
Art Nouveau Mixed Metal Vase by Heintz
Located in San Antonio, TX
Copper and inlaid sterling silver vase by Heintz Art Metal Studios, Makers mark and serial numbers. Beautiful condition. Dated Aug 1912.
Copper, Sterling Silver
Moreau Art Nouveau Vase France
Located in Toronto, ON
Art Nouveau Vase, Paris C.1900 on four turned bracket feet, depicting on the front and back side and reverse full figure views of semi-nude young women respectively. The vase with su...
Tiffany Vase - Large with Acanthus Leaves - American Sterling Silver - C 1912
Located in New York, NY
Large sterling silver vase. Made by Tiffany in New York, ca. 1912. Tapering sides with flared rim, and raised circular foot. Repousse acanthus leaves rise from the base. Repousse scr...
Sterling Silver
Tiffany Vase - Large with Acanthus Leaves - American Sterling Silver - C 1912
Located in New York, NY
Large sterling silver vase. Made by Tiffany in New York, ca. 1912. Tapering sides with flared rim, and raised circular foot. Repousse acanthus leaves rise from the base. Repousse scr...
Sterling Silver
Vase - Large & Pretty - American Cobalt Glass & Silver Overlay - C 1910
Located in New York, NY
Large cobalt glass vase with silver overlay, ca. 1910. Straight and upward tapering sides and flared rim. Top encircled with silver trellis supportin...
Sterling Silver
Art Nouveau Loving Cup - American Cranberry Glass & Silver Overlay
Located in New York, NY
American three-handled loving cup in cranberry glass with silver overlay, c1900. Concave cylinder with three scrolled handles. Asymmetrical...
Sterling Silver