Also called Aesthetic period jewelry, historians have determined that antique late Victorian jewelry and watches are representative of an era that lasted from about 1880 until 1901 and ushered in the Belle Époque.
Queen Victoria wore her heart on her sleeve, and her emotions were reflected in her fashion and in what we now call Victorian jewelry. By about 1880, Queen Victoria and her constituents were ready to look to the future. The dark skies were parting and fashion was changing. There was also a major shift in industry.
While in the beginning of Queen Victoria’s reign the focus was on manufacturing, toward the later years there was a renewed interest and appreciation of the handmade. The late Victorian period (1880–1901) was referred to as the Aesthetic period and coincided with these changing tastes.
The Aesthetic Movement, concerned with “art for art’s sake,” began in Britain around the 1870s and became recognized by designers and artists worldwide, eventually resulting in the Arts and Crafts movement (1880s–1920s).
Stylistically, jewelry of this time period did not resemble its earlier Victorian counterparts, in fact it was in complete opposition to what preceded it. Gone were the mourning jewelry, heavy brooches and large necklaces. Late Victorian-era jewelry was smaller, lighter and more dainty. Women still layered pieces, though, and favored smaller scatter pins. Jewelry also became an evening accessory and not so visible during the day.
Women were starting to actively participate in sporting events (socially, of course, not professionally), so athletic motifs showed up on their accessories. Lockets and heart pendants remained popular, but the REGARD or DEAREST rings of the early Victorian period were replaced by Mizpah pieces, which means “the Lord watches over me” in Hebrew. These items were exchanged between two people to symbolize a close bond.
Diamonds came into fashion, and semiprecious gems such as amethysts and opals became prevalent, too. Using gemstones for their natural beauty and not their worth was something that jewelers of the Aesthetics movement felt passionate about, and this ideology would really become relevant in Art Nouveau jewelry.
The Brits still looked to their monarchs to dictate the latest trends. Queen Victoria’s daughter-in-law Alexandra famously wore a dog-collar necklace, also known as a collier de chien, made up of multiple strands of pearls, to hide a scar. This style of necklace quickly rose to prominence. Toward the end of the 19th century, solitaire rings were also becoming fashionable thanks to Tiffany & Co.’s advent of the six-prong diamond setting in 1886. Platinum was starting to be used in jewelry production as well. Edwardian and, afterward, Art Deco engagement rings that followed in the wake of Queen Victoria’s death in 1901 would be characterized by complex geometric designs and platinum settings.
Women were the biggest influences on jewelry. They joined the workforce, fought for their independence and overall began to lead a much more active lifestyle. Jewelry had to become comfortable and serve multiple purposes. While in the United States, the Gibson Girls lifestyle was emulated by young women, and starlets became trendsetters.
Finally, the international expositions made the world seem like a much smaller place and jewelry from North Africa and India captured people’s attention, appealing to those who already favored Revival jewelry from the Etruscans to the Romans.
Find antique late Victorian jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.
Antique Brooch French 18K Gold & Silver Diamond Transformable Dog Roses, 1880
Located in Buckingham , Buckinghamshire
An exceptional late 19th-century French transformable brooch designed as a naturalistic branch of dog rose, finely set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. Details: Late 19th century,...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
Flower Brooch Victorian Antique 15ct Gold Pearl & Diamond, Circa 1880
Located in Buckingham , Buckinghamshire
An elegant Victorian Antique pearl and diamond floral spray brooch crafted in 15 carat yellow gold, dating to the late 19th century. Details • Period: Late Victorian, circa 1880–19...
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 15k Gold
Antique Floral Spray Brooch with Old European and Rose Cut Diamonds 19th Century
Located in Buckingham , Buckinghamshire
A striking late 19th-century diamond floral spray brooch, acquired from Bonhams Paris, designed as a large naturalistic flower with cascading leafy sprays, curling stems and diamond-...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver
Late Victorian Enamel Guilloche Sterling Silver Brooch with Morning Glory
Located in New York, NY
This round brooch is sterling silver and set with Guilloche enamel detailing and features a stylized morning glory floating on a stylized geometric sinuous background.It is marked 92...
Silver, Enamel
Antique Victorian Brooch Turquoise 15ct Gold Double Heart Lover’s Knot 1880’s
Located in Buckingham , Buckinghamshire
An elegant Victorian turquoise and 15ct gold brooch dating to the late 19th century, designed as a pair of beautifully interlocking hearts in a flowing infinity-style arrangement. T...
Turquoise, Gold, 15k Gold
Late Victorian Era Sterling Silver and Mother of Pearl Whistle Chatelaine
Located in Honolulu, HI
This exquisite piece is a rare example of 19th-century vanity history, featuring a whistle crafted from natural Mother of Pearl and heavy-gauge sterling silver. Historically associat...
Silver
Victorian Persian Turquoise and Seed Pearl Dove
Located in New York, NY
Victorian Persian Turquoise and Seed Pearl Dove from the late 19th Century. Pave turquoises and pearls are used to decorate the dove in fli...
Pearl, Turquoise, Silver, Gilt Metal
$280Sale Price|20% Off
c.1900 Victorian Sterling Silver Peridot Glass & Seed Pearl Circle Brooch
Located in Honolulu, HI
An antique late Victorian open circle brooch, dating to circa 1890. Crafted from sterling silver (stamped on the reverse), this elegant ring-shaped brooch features alternating rows o...
Pearl, Peridot, Sterling Silver
Victorian Coral Button Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Lovely Victorian Coral Button Brooch of beautifully matched coral buttons from the late 19th Century. Wonderful coral color, Gilt metal. 1880's Ita...
Coral, Gilt Metal
Antique Victorian Gold and Turquoise Memorial Brooch, ca. 1870–1890
Located in Rotterdam, NL
A beautiful late 19th-century brooch, finely crafted in 14 karat yellow gold and adorned with vibrant turquoise cabochons. At its center sits a domed cluster of round cabochon-cut tu...
Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Antique Victorian 18K Gold Moonstone Eight-Ray Star Brooch, Circa 1890
Located in Buckingham , Buckinghamshire
A striking antique Victorian moonstone brooch, designed as an eight-rayed celestial star and set throughout with graduated cabochon moonstones. Details * Period: Victorian, circa 1...
Moonstone, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$240Sale Price|20% Off
c. 1890s Victorian Mother of Pearl Openwork Loop Brooch Pin in Rose Gold Tone
Located in Honolulu, HI
A charming Late Victorian era antique brooch featuring a smooth, iridescent Mother-of-Pearl cabochon set in a graceful openwork wire frame. Dating back to circa 1890s, this British-o...
Brass
Antique Victorian Pressed Horn Mourning Brooch, c.1880
Located in New York, NY
A poignant and beautifully crafted example of Victorian mourning jewellery, this antique brooch dates to around 1880. The piece features an intricately carved floral design, formed f...
19th C. Egyptian Revival Micro Mosaic Brooch
Located in Riverdale, NY
Charming 19th C. Egyptian Revival Micro Mosaic Brooch circa 1870's, Italy. Designed as a micromosaic of a pharaoh head set in 14k setting of gold bead and twisted wirework. Very fine...
14k Gold
Victorian Gold and Lapis Lazuli Brooch
Located in Princeton, NJ
A circa 1890s Victorian 14 karat yellow gold and lapis lazuli mourning pin measuring an impressive 42mm in diameter. The pin, boasting elaboration granulation and Etruscan Revival de...
Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 14k Gold
Antique Diamond and Silver Upon Gold Six Point Star Brooch, With Rays Circa 1890
Located in London, GB
An antique diamond six point star brooch, with rays, with an old-cut diamond, in a cut down setting, in the centre, with an air gap surrounded by a flower, grain set with old-cut di...
Diamond, Gold, Silver
Antique Diamond and Silver Upon Gold Buckle Brooch, circa 1890
Located in London, GB
An antique Belle Époque diamond buckle design brooch, with old-cut diamonds, with an estimated total weight of 13.65 carats, with an Edwardian-cut diamond in the centre, weighing app...
Diamond, Gold, Silver
Victorian Ruby, Opal & Pearl Butterfly Brooch
Located in London, GB
Victorian to Edwardian Butterfly Brooch, c.1900–1910 A charming antique butterfly brooch dating from the late Victorian to early Edwardian period, ...
Opal, Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold
Unusual Victorian Amythest and Enamel Stickpin
Located in Riverdale, NY
Unusual Victorian Amythest and Enamel Stickpin from the 19th Century of fine French manufacture. Originally born as a hat pin, it has been cut down for...
Amethyst, 18k Gold, Enamel, Gilt Metal
Unusual Victorian Coral Cat Stickpin
Located in Riverdale, NY
Lovely Victorian Coral Cat Stickpin from the 19th Century. A finely carved 3D cat's head is set on a gold round with black enamel detailing to look like a ruff or collar. Superb qua...
Coral, 14k Gold
19th C. Egyptian Revival Micro Mosaic Brooch
Located in Riverdale, NY
Exceptional 19th C. Egyptian Revival Micro Mosaic Brooch circa 1870's, Italy. Designed as a micromosaic of a pharaoh head set in 14k setting of gold bead and twisted wirework. Incred...
14k Gold
$240Sale Price|20% Off
Victorian High-Relief Lava Cameo Brooch Pendant, c. 1880s
Located in Honolulu, HI
An exceptional late 19th-century Victorian lava cameo brooch-pendant, hand-carved from authentic Vesuvian volcanic stone. Originating from the traditional "Grand Tour" era, this pie...
Brass
$280Sale Price|20% Off
Antique Victorian Italian 800 Silver Florentine Lily Fleur de Lis Brooch C. 1890
Located in Honolulu, HI
An authentic antique late Victorian era silver brooch featuring the iconic Giglio di Firenze (Florentine Lily) motif, dating to the late 19th century (circa 1890s). Crafted in solid...
Silver
Antique Victorian 14K Gold Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Dog Portrait Stickpin
Located in Rotterdam, NL
This Victorian stickpin features a finely detailed reverse intaglio crystal depicting a hunting dog, beautifully hand-painted and carved in reverse beneath a domed crystal cabochon. ...
Crystal, 14k Gold, Gold
Victorian 3.50 Ct Old Mine Diamond Floral Spray Brooch 18 KT Silver
Located in Napoli, IT
This outstanding Victorian period spray brooch is 1890/1900 ca Hand crafted during the time of solid 18 Kt yellow gold topped by silver Nature inspired design of a stunning bunch of leaf and flowers, rich and opulent as it could be in nature, articulate three-dimensional art work...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
Hungarian Coral and Seed Pearl Silver Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Hungarian Coral and Seed Pearl Silver Brooch from the late 19th Century. Set in a heavy sterling hand made mount with genuine coral cabochons, seed pearls and faux ruby pastes. 1.5" ...
Coral, Pearl, Silver
Victorian Vulcanite & French Jet Glass Mourning Brooch C-Clasp c. 1880s
Located in Honolulu, HI
An authentic Victorian era (circa 1880s) composite mourning brooch featuring a dramatic interplay of materials and textures. The tiered, architectural oval base is masterfully molde...
Antique 14k Gold Diamond Sapphire Butterfly Brooch, Circa 1899, Russia
Located in Victoria, CA
A captivating antique Russian brooch crafted in 14k gold in St. Petersburg between 1899 and 1908, embodying the refined artistry of the late Imperial era. Designed as a delicate butt...
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold
$352Sale Price|20% Off
c. 1890s Antique Victorian 'Good Luck' Horseshoe Brooch in Standard Silver
Located in Honolulu, HI
A quintessential Victorian treasure sourced from London, this 'Good Luck' horseshoe brooch captures the romantic symbolism of the late 19th century. In Victorian jewelry, the horsesh...
Silver
$200Sale Price / item|50% Off
Victorian Revival Spiral Sun Oxidised Diamond Pendant in Sterling Silver
Located in New York, NY
This dazzling 2.05 carat diamond pendant is crafted in 925 sterling silver, designed with a refined silhouette that exudes timeless sophistication while offering radiant brilliance a...
Diamond, Silver, Sterling Silver
$43,447Sale Price|20% Off
Diamond and Platinum Brooch by Cartier, Circa 1900
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
A diamond and platinum brooch by Cartier, circa 1900. This elegant brooch by Cartier dates from the turn of the last century and is in beautiful condition for its age. The brooch t...
Diamond, Platinum
Victorian Diamond and Silver-Upon-Gold Brooch, circa 1875
Located in London, GB
A Victorian oval diamond openwork brooch, with a centre cluster, set with a cushion shaped old-cut diamond, surrounded by old-mine cut diamonds, in claw settings, enclosed by four tr...
Diamond, Gold, Silver
Demantoid garnet, diamond and pearl brooch, circa 1890.
Located in London, GB
Demantoid garnet, diamond and pearl brooch. Set to centre with a cushion shape old cut natural demantoid garnet in an open back claw setting with an approximate weight of 1.40 carats...
Diamond, Garnet, Pearl, Yellow Gold
Victorian Gold Etruscan Bar Pin
Located in New York, NY
Lovely Victorian 18K Gold Etruscan Bar Pin from the mid to late 19th Century. Beautiful hand applied gold shot and wirework on Victorian base. 2.25" x .4". 1870's USA.
14k Gold, 18k Gold
Victorian Bois Durci High Relief Goddess Cameo Mourning Brooch Greek Key C.1860
Located in Honolulu, HI
An exceptional and substantial antique Victorian mourning brooch (circa 1860–1870), expertly crafted in dark matte Bois Durci (hardened wood composition) showcasing a dramatic high-r...
Gold Plate
$544Sale Price|20% Off
Victorian Shell Cameo and Gold Tone Spinning Locket Brooch, circa 1890
Located in Honolulu, HI
This exceptional example of late-Victorian ingenuity, dating to circa 1890, features a masterfully hand-carved natural shell cameo set within a highly functional rotating frame. The ...
Other, Gold-filled
Late Victorian Opal Pearl 14 Karat Yellow Gold Antique Laurel Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering a 6.5 mm round boulder opal cabochon - white with spectral play-of-color Displaying brown host matrix on edges of cabochon - bezel set With a highly rendered laurel wreath ...
Opal, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Coral Cabochon Victorian Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Attractive Coral Cabochon Victorian Brooch from the late 19th Century. Very dimensional layered construction with Italian origin coral cabochons likely ...
Coral, Silver
Victorian Onyx & Floral Motif Oval Brooch – Warm Rose Gold Filled (c. 1880s)
Located in Honolulu, HI
This exquisite Victorian-era oval brooch (circa 1880s) is a beautiful example of the sentimental jewelry often found in the late 19th century. At its center lies a smooth, polished b...
Onyx, Gold-filled, Rose Gold
$328Sale Price|20% Off
Antique Late Victorian Angel Skin Coral Cameo Brooch, Circa 1900
Located in Honolulu, HI
An antique late Victorian cameo brooch dating to circa 1900, featuring a finely hand-carved natural Angel Skin Coral cameo depicting the classical profile of a young woman. The carvi...
Coral, Silver Plate
Antique Gold and Moss Agate Brooch
Located in Princeton, NJ
Offered here is an object of true beauty, and an ideal marriage of nature and human craft. Mounted in a 14 karat yellow gold pin is an exceptional piece of natural moss agate, the st...
Agate, Gold, 14k Gold
Important Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Cluster Brooch/Ring
Located in London, GB
An Important Victorian yellow sapphire and diamond brooch/ring, the natural sapphire weighing 31.58 carats, accompanied by GCS Re...
Diamond, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Victorian Painted Miniature Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Charming Victorian Painted Miniature Brooch with a surround of half pearls. A finely painted miniature watercolor of a young child playing a harp in t...
Natural Pearl, Gold Plate, Silver
Magnificent Late Victorian Diamond-Set Butterfly Brooch
Located in London, GB
A Magnificent late Victorian diamond-set butterfly brooch, the brooch in the form of a butterfly, the body, pierced wings and head set throughout with old brilliant- and rose-cut diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of 15 carats, with ruby eyes, all set in silver to a yellow gold mount and brooch fitting, circa 1890, measuring approximately 7.1x4cm, gross weight 18.2 grams. This gorgeous butterfly brooch comes from the collection of Bentley & Skinner, the London jewellers by appointment to His Majesty King Charles III. This brooch is in the shape of a lovely butterfly modelled from silver and yellow gold, set throughout with a combined weight of 17 & ¾ carats of dazzling diamonds. The diamonds are all old-cut and rose-cut, giving this piece alluring sparkle. The eyes of the butterfly are set with cabochon-cut rubies, a typical feature of Victorian jewellery depicting insects. This magnificent piece is a perfect example of late Victorian insect jewellery...
Diamond, Gold, Silver
Victorian Onyx and Half Pearl Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Charming Victorian Onyx and Half Pearl Brooch set in 14k gold from the late 19th Century. High quality manufacture. 1.5 x.25". 1880's USA.
Onyx, Pearl, 14k Gold
Late Victorian 14 Karat Gold & Diamond Stick Pin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine 14k gold and diamond stick pin. Converted from a Late Victorian larger piece of jewelry. With a round brilliant cut diamond pave set in center of a 14k gold flower shap...
Diamond, Gold
Leitão & Irmão Antique 19th Century Diamond Star Tortoise Shell Brooch Hair Comb
Located in Lisbon, PT
Leitão & Irmão Portuguese crown jewelers antique late 19th century diamond star brooch and convertible tortoise shell hair piece in silver and yellow gold, Portugal, circa 1880. This highly collectible Victorian jewel is composed by an old-cut diamond-set star mounted in silver-on-gold which is mounted onto a two-leg tortoise shell hair comb...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Late Victorian Essex Crystal Gold Duck Pin
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Framed in 9 carat yellow gold, the reverse painted duck stands on the shore overlooking the water, his lustrous feathers bursting with color. Water laps at his webbed feet and reeds ...
9k Gold
Victorian Paste Buckle Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Lovely Victorian Paste Buckle Brooch from the late 19th Century. Originally a buckle but converted in the period to a brooch with antique fittings. Hand ...
Vermeil, Silver
Antique Moonstone, Natural Pearl Enamel And Gold Lucky Clover Brooch, Circa 1900
Located in London, GB
An antique lucky clover brooch, with a gold circle, edged with rope wirework, with white enamelled clover leaves, with a clover leaf in the centre, with a central natural pearl and t...
Moonstone, Natural Pearl, Gold, Enamel
Victorian Molded Black Pressed Horn Floral Brooch Pin C-Clasp c.1870s
Located in Honolulu, HI
An exceptional and rare authentic Victorian mourning brooch (circa 1870s–1880s), intricately crafted from molded black pressed horn. This piece features a striking hexagonal silhoue...
Certified Colombian Emerald Articulating Drop Brooch with Natural Pearls
Located in London, GB
A striking late Victorian articulating drop brooch, crafted in gold and silver-topped gold and set throughout with approximately 8.43 carats of old mine-cut diamonds. The elegant geo...
Diamond, Emerald, Yellow Gold, Silver
$256Sale Price|20% Off
14K Yellow Gold Ornate Victorian Pin, Early 20th Century, England
Located in New York, NY
A Glimpse of 19th-Century Elegance Step back in time with this 14K Yellow Gold Ornate Victorian Pin, an exquisite piece that captures the romantic spirit and intricate craftsmanship...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian double heart sweetheart ruby diamond brooch in 9k rose gold
Located in PARIS, FR
Victorian Diamond ruby heart brooch in 9 karats gold, silver and metal. Antique brooch with a central motif of two intertwined hearts, one set with d...
Diamond, Ruby, Rose Gold, 9k Gold, Silver
Antique lily of the valley 3cts diamond brooch in 18 karat gold and silver
Located in PARIS, FR
Antique lily of the valley diamond brooch in 18 karat gold and silver. Large brooch featuring two inwardly curved lily of the valley sprigs, held together by a knot. The entire brooc...
Diamond, Gold, Silver
Victorian Diamond Enamel 18 Karat Yellow Gold Platinum Crown Heart Brooch
Located in London, GB
A Victorian diamond enamel 18 karat yellow gold and platinum crown heart brooch. This charming brooch is composed of a central heart motif with blue enamelled detail set with a sing...
Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum
Victorian Carved Moonstone and Diamond Angel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Wonderful and rare carved moonstone cherub brooch from the late Victorian era. Intricately carved moonstone putti head with incredible detail in the r...
Diamond, Moonstone, 15k Gold, Silver
$15,988Sale Price|20% Off
VICTORIAN 1890 GIA Bar Brooch In 14Kt Gold With 15.78 mm Natural Pearl & Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
An antique Victorian brooch with natural pearl This is a beautiful bar brooch created in England during the Victorian period, back in the 1890-1900. The elegant brooch has been craf...
Diamond, Pearl, White Diamond, Natural Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
Late Victorian 10 Karat Gold & Seed Pearl Stick Pin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine Late Victorian 10k gold & seed pearl stick pin. With a lotus shaped flower that has a small white round seed pearl set at its center....
Pearl, Gold
Italian Renaissance Revival Seed Pearl Gold-Filled Fleur-de-lis Brooch 1900
Located in Honolulu, HI
Acquired in Milan, this antique Italian brooch features an elegantly reimagined Fleur-de-lis motif, reflecting the humanistic spirit of the Re...
Freshwater Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold Plate, Gilt Metal