Baume Mercier Tank

The name Baume & Mercier has been synonymous with quality watches for nearly two centuries. Studious vintage watch collectors might know the legendary Swiss watchmaker for a range of reasons — it created distinctive models for women as they struggled for equal rights during the heyday of the Art Deco era, its shaped watches during the 1970s would certainly impress today’s enthusiasts of tonneaus and the like, and its Riviera emerged when donning a sports watch made of steel was little more than a fantasy.

Louis-Victor Baume and his brother Célestin laid the foundation for Baume & Mercier in a small watch dealership in Les Bois, Switzerland. The pair expanded to London, England, where they established the Baume Brothers in 1851. For the last half of the 19th century, Baume Brothers wristwatches won timekeeping competitions and set accuracy records around the world.

Their chronographs and grand complication models earned them ten Grand Prix awards and seven gold medals at various international exhibitions. Revered for their superior accuracy, Baume won a competition hosted by the Kew Observatory with a tourbillon mechanism which went unchallenged for a full decade.

Baume & Mercier, Genève was established once Paul Mercier joined William Baume, then director of Baume Brothers, in 1918. Unafraid to challenge the status quo, Baume & Mercier began introducing unconventional shapes while upholding their values — an endeavor that garnered the brand the highest international distinction at the time, the Poinçon de Genève.

During the 1920s, when women wore watches of all kinds, from wristwatches to long-chained pendant watches to lapel watches, Baume & Mercier positioned themselves at the forefront of innovation and cultural relevance. The Marquise, an incredibly successful model, marked the start of a modern ladies’ watch line that demonstrated the luxury brand’s recognition of the growing social movement at the time. Women were fighting for rights and earning power as consumers and so demanded more than the simpler imitations of men’s designs available in the past. Baume delivered.

Piaget purchased Baume & Mercier in 1964, and the Galaxie and Stardust models followed the acquisition, furthering Baume’s reputation during the 1970s for marrying elevated, shapely designs with the newest innovations — winning them the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden. Baume & Mercier are now part of Richemont. 

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Antique, new and vintage wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.

Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.

Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.

In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.

Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.

Find antique, new and vintage wristwatches on 1stDibs.