Chanel Cocoon Trolley

In the years following the opening of her modest millinery shop, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel became a pivotal designer of both fashionable casual wear and Paris haute couture as well as an icon and arbiter of 20th-century style with her bob haircut and pearls. Today vintage Chanel handbags, jackets and evening dresses are among the most sought-after clothing and accessories for fashion lovers all over the world.

The first Chanel shop was established in 1910 in Paris on rue Cambon by the young milliner Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971), who had picked up the nickname “Coco” while working as a club singer. The boutique drew the attention of the Parisian fashion elite who popularized her wide-brimmed Chanel Modes hats. Soon she added a sportswear store in the Normandy resort town of Deauville, where Coco set the tone for her defining sense of style — traditionally masculine garments reimagined for feminine shapes, made from simple jersey fabric.

Effortless and elegant, Chanel's designs promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by complicated layers of fabric and cumbersome corsets. She followed this success with a couture house, opened in 1915 in Biarritz.

But Chanel was not born into a life of glamour. Following the death of her mother, her father left her in an orphanage where she lived until the age of 18. It was there that she learned to sew as well as appreciate the classic pairing of black and white as worn by the nuns.

In 1926, Chanel introduced her first little black dress, reclaiming a color that had once been reserved for mourning and working-class women. That same decade, she debuted her perfume, Chanel No. 5, as well as the Chanel suit with a fitted skirt, inspired by the boxy lines of men’s clothing and employing a sporty tweed. 

Chanel closed her fashion operations during World War II, then returned to the industry in 1954 to design for the functional needs of modern women.

Structure and wearability endured in all of Chanel’s clothing and accessories, like the quilted leather 2.55 handbag — a 1955 update of a 1920s-era design — with its gold-chain shoulder strap that freed up a woman’s hands. The 1957 two-tone slingback pumps had a practical heel height while offering a bold statement in the black tip of the shoes. Her collarless jacket reacted against the constricting styles of Christian Dior's New Look, replacing them with a design that was timeless, an instant classic. 

After Coco Chanel died in 1971, the brand underwent several changes in leadership, including fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who took over as artistic director in 1983. His collections for Chanel displayed his knack for synthesizing old and new, high and low. Lagerfeld revived Chanel ballet flats and thoroughly embraced the classic logo's interlocking CCs, which took the form of a clasp featured on so many of the rare Chanel bags that are much sought after today.

Vintage Karl Lagerfeld designs for Chanel dresses, coats and other clothing of the 1980s, '90s and 2000s riffed on its iconography, accenting a lexicon of Chanel-isms with tastes of the moment. And as the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, vintage Chanel bags of the 1990s are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings.

Over the years, the company has continued to innovate, such as expanding into ready-to-wear fashion in 1978 and, in 2002, establishing a subsidiary company — Paraffection — dedicated to preserving the heritage skills of fashion artisan workshops. The House of Chanel still operates its flagship on rue Cambon in Paris, where it all began.

Browse vintage Chanel bags, evening dresses, shoes, jewelry and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.

Why not add a dose of class to your travels even if you’re flying coach? With the broad range of sophisticated designer and vintage luggage available for sale on 1stDibs, packing and unpacking doesn’t have to be such a chore.

Let’s face it: Stuffing the car trunk or loading up your luggage before takeoff and then doing the opposite when you arrive is often the worst part of any trip, but there’s nothing stopping you from reintroducing the glamour and luxury that defined the so-called Golden Age of Travel.

Romanticized in recent years on hit TV shows such as Mad Men, the Golden Age of Travel generally began during the 1940s, when the big commercial airlines of 20th-century America deployed the newest in large airplanes to carry scores of usually well-dressed travelers to foreign destinations. This era of aspirational air travel was marked by luxurious in-flight dining, copious cocktails and high spirits, promoted in part by the sleek, graphically rich airline brochures and vibrantly colored illustrated travel posters that hung in the windows of travel agencies. Those drawn to the history of this now well-documented era — or those who lived it, having caught the travel bug thanks to revered magazines such as Holiday or the photography of Slim Aarons — will find lots to love in vintage travel bags and suitcases, particularly luggage that originated in the world’s best luxury fashion houses.

With top brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci offering their take on essential travel bags, every brisk walk through the airport can feel like a runway. After all, why would you want to hide all of the fun inside your suitcase when you could make a statement with its exterior?

Purchasing a first-class travel bag will render the idea of “living out of a suitcase” appealing. Any journey, be it to a summer hot spot or a cozy winter getaway, can be outfitted with functional and fashionable vintage and designer luggage thanks to a vast collection of 1970s, ’80s and ’90s suitcases and satchels available for sale on 1stDibs. With designs suited to your very particular personal travel style, you’ll rightfully have a hard time tucking these pieces into a closet when you return home.