For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.
Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Cartier American Solid Silver and Enamel Cigarette Box, 20th Century
By Cartier
Located in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent
A superb 20th Century exceptionally rare American solid silver and enamel cigarette box. The lid is decorated with different cigarette brands: “Lucky Strike,” “Old Gold,” “Camel,” an...
Silver, Enamel
20thC English Solid Silver & 9K Gold Cigar Case By Cartier Of New Bond St c.1929
By Cartier
Located in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent
A 20th century English solid silver and 9k gold cigar case by Cartier. The lid and base are decorated with raised gold inlaid bands over a finely engine-turned ground. Applied to the...
Gold, Silver
Cartier Table Box cigarettes fired Enamel on Sterling Silver made by Salimbeni
By Salimbeni, Cartier
Located in Firenze, FI
Square table box for cigarettes with rounded corners in 925/1000 sterling silver with black fired enamel. Measure cm. 12.7 x 12.7 x 3.2. Weight gr. 640. This piece is the result of t...
Sterling Silver, Enamel
Antique William IV Sterling Silver Table Snuff Box
By Joseph Willmore
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive antique William IV English sterling silver table snuff box; an addition to our collectable silverware collection. This exceptional antique William IV sterling silver snuff box has a rectangular, rounded form. The body of the box is embellished with impressive chased floral motifs accented with scrolling stem and foliate ornamentation, all on a matte background. The decoration to the body incorporates a chased single leaf design to each corner, emanating from the rounded lower portion. The upper rim of the body and swept sides of the cover are encompassed with a continuous band of engine turned decoration. The underside of the box features a further panel of engine turned decoration. This exceptional example of antique silverware is fitted with a hinged hallmarked cover embellished with an engine turned bordered rectangular vacant cartouche to the upper plateau. The cover is further embellished with an exceptional cast and applied domed, incurved border to the upper portion, matching the ornamentation to that of the body and continuing to an impressive floral thumbpiece to the anterior edge. This antique sterling silver snuff box opens to reveal the original gilded interior. Condition This antique sterling silver snuff box is an exceptional gauge of silver, exceptional quality and in exceptional condition. The chased and applied ornamentation is all very sharp and the engine turned decoration is all very crisp. Full hallmarks struck to the interior of the box are all very clear. Reflections in photographs may detract from the true representation of this antique silverware. Dimensions Length 9.8cm/3.9" Width 6.5cm/2.6" Height 4.3cm/1.7" Weight 8.2 troy ounces/253g Maker: Joseph Willmore...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Handsome Antique English Cigar Case In Crocodile c.1890
Located in Bath, GB
A superb cigar case made from Crocodile / Alligator skin dating to the late Victorian era, c.1890. Excellent condition with all stitching intact. 5" x 3 1/2" x 1". Item: 35829 FRE...
Crocodile
20th Cebtury Italian Solid Silver Vintage Decorative Box
By Arval Argenti Valenza
Located in VALENZA, IT
Decorative pumpkin-shaped 800 solid silver box. The body of the box is round and has been embossed and chiseled with the typical stripes of the pumpkin. The knob is cast and has th...
Silver
20th Century Italian Sterling Silver Table Box
By Pampaloni
Located in VALENZA, IT
Rectangular/octagonal table box in 925 silver. The box was completely handmade in Florence at the end of the last century. Engraved with floral and abstract motifs, it has been fin...
Sterling Silver
$521Sale Price|20% Off
H 5.32 in W 4.14 in D 1.19 in
Italian Cigar Case in Leather and Solid Signed Silver, Italy 1960s
Located in Roma, IT
Beautiful four-seater cigar case in leather with a stunning 925 silver decorated accent. The cigar case was made in Florence around 1950s.
Metal, Silver
$8,645
H 3.55 in W 12.6 in D 9.85 in
20th Century Italian Solid Silver Table SHIP Box embossed completely by hand
Located in VALENZA, IT
Rectangular solid silver 800°°/°°° table box. The box is embossed by hand with flowers, leaves and fruits. At the center of the hinged lid is embossed and engraved a sailing ship in ...
Silver
$2,079Sale Price|20% Off
H 5.12 in W 6.7 in D 4.34 in
20th Century Italian Solid Silver Trunk-Shaped Box with Squirrel Knob
Located in VALENZA, IT
Solid silver 800 box the shape of a tree trunk. The feet are oak leaf and the knob depicts a squirrel on two oak leaves holding an acorn in his hands. The hinged box is gold-plated ...
Silver
Sold|$935
H 4.34 in W 4.34 in D 4.34 in
Longchamp 20th century design dog ceramic and leather cigarette box 1970
By Longchamp
Located in Neuilly-en- sancerre, FR
Longchamp 20th century design ceramic and leather cigarette box Brown ceramic piece with dog decoration Original vintage good condition Singe...
Ceramic, Leather
Art Deco Sterling Silver-Mounted Shagreen Table Box
By Charles Boyton & Sons, Ltd.
Located in New York, NY
Art Deco, sterling silver-mounted shagreen table box, London, 1923, Charles Boynton & Sons, Ltd, makers. Measures: 6 1/4" wide x 3 1/2" deep x 2 1/4" high. Wood lined. Shagreen is be...
Sterling Silver
$16,865Sale Price|20% Off
H 1.58 in Dm 7.68 in
20th Century Sterling Silver Italian Gilded and Enameled Table Box
By Salimbeni
Located in VALENZA, IT
Round haped silver gilded 925/1000 table box with translucent enamels on guilloche with hand-painted floral miniatures and gold paillons Made in Italy 1.400 grams The Miniatures are hand-painted on a usually white homogeneous enamel base. The same colored glazes are used, but ground much finer, which are mixed with special oils to form an infinite palette of colors. The paint must be gradually dried on electric stoves...
Sterling Silver
$2,500
H 2 in W 5.5 in D 4 in
Antique Sterling Silver Japanese Export Engraved Cigarette or Decorative Box
Located in Hamilton, Ontario
This antique engraved sterling silver cigarette or decorative box was made in Japan in approximately 1900 in the period Japonisme style. The box is composed of an ebonized hardwood c...
Sterling Silver
Antique English Art Deco Sterling Silver Box
By Robert Pringle & Sons
Located in New York, NY
George VI sterling silver box. Made by Robert Pringle & Sons in London in 1939. Rectangular with curved corners. Cover hinged and tabbed; top has engine-turned wave ornament and rect...
Sterling Silver
Cartier Retailed Solid Sterling Silver Cigar Box - 1961
By Cartier, Padgett & Braham Ltd
Located in Bath, GB
A top-notch solid silver cigar / cigarette box, perfect for a jewellery, desk-top box or simply to enjoy it's decorative beauty. The box was made by the English silversmith, Padgett...
Sterling Silver
Sold
H 2 in W 6.38 in D 4.44 in
Rare Cartier London Art Deco Sterling Silver Vermeil Lapis Lazuli Cigar Box
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Fine Cartier London Art Deco period sterling silver, vermeil and lapis lazuli cigar box Early 20th Century Elegant, streamlined geometrical design of alternating vertical and horizon...
Lapis Lazuli, Sterling Silver
Antique American Two-Color Gold Cigarette Case
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Early 20th century American two-colour-gold cigarette case made by Cartier in New York. The elegance of the case is reflected in the alternating b...
Gold
20thC Royal Solid Silver & 18K Gold Cigar Box, Cartier, c.1956
By Cartier
Located in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent
Stunning mid-20th Century Royal presentation solid silver and 18k gold cigar box, made by the world renowned jeweller Cartier in a Russian style, with s...
Gold, Silver
Sold
H 0.6 in W 3.82 in D 2.49 in
Sterling Silver Cigarette Case, Produced for Cartier, Fired Enamel Salimbeni
By Cartier, Salimbeni
Located in Firenze, FI
Cigarette case for handbag in 925/1000 sterling silver with black fired enamel. Opening with spring button. Size cm. 6.3 x 9.7 x 1.5 . Created in Art Deco style for Cartier USA in the 1980s, inspired by designs by Louis Cartier from the early 1900s.. Manufactured in Florence in the Salimbeni factory with completely manual execution by artisan artists with high thickness plate and big reinforcements suitable to support several firings of enamelling at great fire at about 800° C. About cooperation Salimbeni and Cartier. Our first meetings with the Cartier USA Company took place through the Giorgini Company, the first "Buying Office" set up in Florence immediately after the Second World War, which had the purpose of bringing together Florentine, and also Italian, producers with American buyers, who especially appreciated the artistic objects still manufactured by artisans who still took inspiration from the Italian Renaissance, using techniques handed down from generation to generation. Mrs. Gina Pestelli, wife of a Florentine retail jeweller, was in charge of contacts with Cartier USA, above all an employee, while her daughter, also for Giorgini, took care of the fashion that in those years was affirmed in Florence with the events of "Pitti ". With their help, we began to supply frames and boxes in sterling silver gold plated with malachite and other semi-precious stones. At the same time, the official buyer of Cartier, Mr. William Smith, began to appreciate and commission the first objects with fired enamels, a process of which we have always been specialists. In 1975 we began exhibiting at the prestigious New York Jewellery Association Show, which we participated in both the February and July editions, for a good 26 years until 2001. In New York in those years the "Art deco style" was still very much appreciated, still mindful of the beautiful early 20th century architecture of the great buildings such as the "Crysler" or the "Empire State". We then began to produce frames, boxes, evening bags, "objets de vertu" and other objects in "art deco style" which were very popular with Mr. Smith who gave us some photocopies of Louis Francois Cartier drawings to reproduce them. Thus, numerous cigarette cases, powder compacts, evening bags, frames and table boxes were created exclusively for Cartier USA which, at the time, had the prestigious "Silver Department" on the first floor of the Cartier store on Fifth Avenue. An evening bag, with matching cigarette case and powder compact, were redone on the design created for a gift given to Mary Pickford at the time. In a 1986 Cartier catalogue...
Sterling Silver, Enamel