Sapphires — the stone of choice for Napoleon, Princess Diana and Elizabeth Taylor — have been a favorite of aristocrats and the well-to-do since the time of the Ancient Greeks. Today, shop the bright blue gems that star in vintage star sapphire rings on 1stDibs.
Picture a piece of antique sapphire jewelry. If the gemstone you conjure is a deep cornflower blue, you’re seeing only part of the picture. Although blue Kashmirs are considered the most valuable, sapphires come in every color except red. No matter the hue, this very special gem is rich in history and beloved by royals (FYI, Princess Diana and Kate Middleton share an 11-carat sapphire engagement ring), so September babies are in very noble company.
You may have heard of star sapphire jewelry, and yes, star sapphires do exist. These gems are created as a result of Asterism, which “arises from white light reflecting from numerous tiny, oriented needle-like inclusions,” according to the Gemological Institute of America. Such a stone is usually cut as a cabochon and may be any color. Thanks to its depth, a cabochon cut can intensify the hue of a colored stone like an emerald, sapphire or ruby. And it enhances the optical effects seen in some gems, such as the iridescence, or rainbow-like play of color, in opals; the adularescence, or milky glow, of moonstones; the chatoyancy, or cat’s-eye effect, of tigereyes; and the asterism, or star-shaped display, in star sapphire rings and star ruby earrings.
Star sapphires and rubies, both hard stones on the Mohs scale, would not display this compelling feature if not cut as cabochons. These rare gems have been treasured throughout history, and their crossed lines are said to represent faith, hope and destiny.
The grand dame of jewelry, Elizabeth Taylor had a passion for sapphires that her lovers were happy to indulge. Second husband Michael Wilding gave her an engagement ring set with a cabochon sapphire — cabochon jewels were once the height of glamour — while Richard Burton famously presented her with a BVLGARI sautoir set with diamonds and sapphires, including at its center a cabochon Burmese weighing 52.72 carats. One of the star lots in the sale of Taylor’s jewels at the Christie’s New York in 2011, it sold for $5,906,500.
In the 1930s and ’40s, cabochon-cut sapphires surged in popularity as icons of the day embraced them. Mary Pickford, America’s Sweetheart, had a penchant for exceptional jewels. Her husband, Douglas Fairbanks Sr., gave her perhaps the world’s most impressive star sapphire, the Star of Bombay, set in a platinum ring by Trabert & Hoeffer (which later became Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin).
The taste for cabochon sapphires spread across Hollywood. Joan Crawford was known to love the gemstone, so much so that the press dubbed her Joan Blue. Crawford’s second husband, Franchot Tone, commissioned her favorite jeweler, Raymond Yard, to create a ring with a 70-carat star sapphire for their engagement. However, the most publicized Crawford jewel, also designed by Yard, was a bracelet with three huge star sapphires in a wide platinum Art Deco setting along with diamonds. Actor William Powell’s most notable leading ladies, both on- and off-screen, also wore star sapphires.
You don’t have to have blue blood or a bulging bank account, however, to get an eyeful of this much-coveted gem. A number of outstanding examples reside in public collections.
The Smithsonian Museum of Natural History owns the 423-carat Logan sapphire, a gift from the Guggenheim family, and the Hall sapphire and diamond necklace, designed by Harry Winston and featuring 36 fine, well-matched cushion-cut Sri Lankan sapphires weighing a combined 195 carats. Also in the collection is the Bismarck sapphire necklace, designed by Cartier and sporting a central sapphire weighing 98.6 carats, which Mona Von Bismarck donated to the museum. When she died, Mary Pickford left the Star of Bombay to the Smithsonian, where it remains today.
The allure of large gemstones endures throughout the periods characterized as vintage, and star sapphires feature frequently in vintage engagement rings. (On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.)
Find an exquisite collection of star sapphire cocktail rings, star sapphire engagement rings and other sapphire rings on 1stDibs.
