Bicego Mother Pearl

In its refreshing mix of traditional Italian craftsmanship and contemporary fashion sensibility, Marco Bicego’s style is unmistakable in the world of fine jewelry. The designer, whose pieces have been worn by former secretary of state Hillary Clinton and actresses such as Kate Winslet, was born into a family of goldsmiths in Vicenza, Italy. His eponymous brand took shape at his father Giuseppe Bicego’s atelier, where young Marco would spend every summer observing craftsmen and learning to make pieces by hand. He introduced his first collection in 2000.

Each necklace, bracelet, ring and earring is made at Bicego’s headquarters in Northern Italy’s Veneto region. A typical Marco Bicego piece is made of 18-karat gold that is smelted in-house, is unusual in its shape and texture and is designed to be perfect for layering. Some of the atelier’s signature techniques include the integration of gemstones such as emeralds, sapphires and tourmalines faceted with an exclusive rose cut and iconic line engraving on gold. This texturing is done by a bulino tool, an ancient hand-carving tool that leaves hundreds of lines on the metal’s surface, giving the piece a fine, brushed texture and a delicate sheen. The hand-twisted coil technique is another classic, one that lends necklaces and bangles a distinctly handmade, liquid-like appearance.

Marco Bicego jewelry is meant to be lived in — dressed up with a cocktail dress or worn casually with a T-shirt. This versatility, combined with artisanal techniques, makes a Bicego piece inimitable. The founder’s unconventional collections are named after his journeys to cities such as Cairo, Jaipur and Marrakech — he finds inspiration in his travels and, most importantly, in the person who wears his jewelry. “Every jewel is entirely handmade,” Bicego has said. “It is unique, like the woman who wears it.”

Find a collection of Marco Bicego jewelry on 1stDibs.