For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.
Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Vintage and designer backpacks do more than carry our books, notebooks, electronic devices and other possessions to and fro. They are also a reflection of personal taste and style. Whether it’s an understated solid color — black backpacks will remain forever timeless — or it’s emblazoned with a dazzling graphic pattern or an iconic fashion house’s logo, a backpack makes a statement.
In 1908, decades before the JanSports and Eastpaks of the world materialized, Norwegian Ole Bergan crafted the first backpack, whittling and shaping a juniper branch to support a robust canvas rucksack on his back. Twenty-five years later, the patent on Bergan’s wildly convenient and functional accessory expired, and backpacks became popular with hikers, campers and other outdoor enthusiasts as other designers and companies scrambled to develop their own iterations. During the late 1930s, the first zippered backpack appeared — for students, it was a significant improvement over carrying their books with a leather belt.
Some designer backpacks are sleek and sporty, while others attract attention with flashy brass hardware and a textured exterior flap. While the innumerable handbag lovers of our modern times continue to gravitate toward iconic labels — classic bags still rule — today’s shoppers are savvier and have a wider range of shopping options. Backpacks designed by universally renowned brands such as Gucci, Dior and Burberry are similarly alluring when it comes to finding the perfect carryall.
Heavy-duty nylon backpacks or those made with polyester are likely the most common, but many alternatives can be found in canvas, leather and suede. The best backpack for you might be one that is modest in size and discreet, and thus ideal for carrying a few items. If that sounds like what you need, explore crossbody bags and messenger bags, as they’re a bit easier to access and you don’t have to remove the bag to get to its contents. Others may seek a bag that is spacious enough to fit all of the supplies for an overnight hike, in which case, a sturdy, structured backpack might be a better fit.
Whether it is for fashion, function or both, there is a backpack suited to every individual. Find yours in the extensive collection of vintage and designer backpacks on 1stDibs.