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An à la française Sack Back Taffeta Silk Court Gown - France Circa 1780

About the Item

Circa 1780 France Superb and Complete Taffeta called Mexicaine Sack Back french gown with a mantle coat, pettycoat and stomacher. Sack back pleated mantle dress and double ruffles pagoda sleeves. Very fine brocaded taffeta silk with ombré and cannelé stripes, adorned with a fine motif of rosebuds.Ruched appliqué front ruffles, adorned with matching trimmings fly fringes. Provenance Maison Godillot Paris. The waist of the skirt has been dismantled as is often the case. Taffeta crunchy and stong, not weathered or stained, rare in this condition and complete !. Excellent condition of color and conservation for the age. Dimensions: Modeled on size 36/38 France. Coat front height 133 cm, back height 154 cm, shoulders 41 cm, sleeves 46 cm, chest 94 cm. Extract from the 2020 Villa Rosemaine catalogue, text signed Soline Anthore Baptiste The French dress is the feminine outfit most representative of the clothing aesthetic of the 18th century. Derived from the flying dress worn in Paris in 1703 by Marie Carton Dancourt in the comedy Andrienne de Baron, the French dress remained in fashion for more than half a century, until the 1780s. the Frenchwoman in precious shaped silks: after the 1760s, the characteristic asymmetrical patterns of the rococo period gave way to more vertical patterns, often stripes accompanied by garlands of flowers. The outfit is trimmed with bands often made of the same fabric, which is pleated and gathered in frills, flounces or ruffles, tracing sinuous lines on the edges of the coat of dress and the bottom of the skirt. The whole is often enhanced with a light braid of trimmings of knots and small silk tassels called chafer eyebrows because of its resemblance to the antennae of this insect. The bodice is adjusted by means of a stomach piece, the highlight of this outfit by its ornamentation: removable and usually fixed on demand by small dots or pins, it is rarely present with the dresses we have arrived. The so-called "pagoda" sleeves stop at the elbow and are decorated with scalloped facings. At Versailles at the end of the 18th century, where court dress was considered inconvenient, the French dress became the outfit for curial ceremonies. By its dynamic beauty, its undulations of flowers and ribbons, and the swaying of the basket under the skirts which gives the woman a "voluptuous and decent step" (N. Rétif de la Bretonne, Monsieur Nicolas or the Human Heart Unveiled), the French dress represents the perfect symbol of the Enlightenment aesthetic.
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: Equivalent french size 36-38 (EU)
  • Style:
    Louis XVI french Era (Of the Period)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
    1780-1789
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use. Excellent condition and color for its age, really.
  • Seller Location:
    Toulon, FR
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU633312733812
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