Early California Republic Kerchief, Likely Made at the Panama-Pacific Expo 1915

Rare, large scale Kerchief with a beautifully engraved image of John Trumbull’s “declaration of independence,” likely made in...

1840 campaign kerchief featuring an image of William Henry Harrison on horseback in military garb, one of the first known campaign textiles in e...

EXTRAORDINARILY EARLY (1806) PRINTED LINEN KERCHIEF GLORIFYING GEORGE WASHINGTON, PRINT WORKS, GERMANTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA Printed in blue ink on coarse, white linen, this patriotic kerchief shows a standing portrait of George Washington, above which is a swag valance and the words “The Effect of Principle, Behold the Man”. The portrait is based on a mezzotint after Gilbert Stuart’s very famous painting of Washington in his later years, most often referred to as the Landsdowne portrait. Stuart painted three versions of it in oil on canvas, one of which was completed in 1796 for a wealthy merchant by the name of William Constable, who commissioned the work for Alexander Hamilton. The kerchief is interesting because it is both American-made and documented. This is exceptionally unusual for any printed textile of the 19th century or prior and the earlier the time period the more unlikely an object is to be identified. This kerchief and a companion piece entitled “The Love of Truth Mark the Boy” (also glorifying Washington, through the fabled story of the cherry tree), were made circa 1806 by Germantown Print Works in Germantown, Pennsylvania. To the left of Washington's image is a portion of his infamous farewell address to his troops at the end of the Revolutionary War. To the right is a short excerpt from his eulogy. Below these are three images. In the center is a square-rigged tall ship with “Commercial Union” above it, flanked by the American eagle on the left and the British lion on the right. It is reasonable to assume that the textile may have been produced in demonstration of the maker's desire, and/or that of others, to advance trade with England. Commercial printers were very influential in early America, as they possessed the means by which to disseminate information. This kerchief and its companion piece are documented in Threads of History, Americana Recorded on Cloth, 1775 - the Present, by Herbert Ridgeway Collins (1979, Smithsonian Press), p. 63, items 38 & 39.* The two pieces pictured are in the collection of Cornell University, but the Collins text also cites an uncut pair to be present in the collection of the Western Reserve Historical Society, Cleveland, OH. The name "Germantown Print Works" is printed on the Western Reserve examples. Another example of the textile in question is documented in "Running for President, The Candidates and Their Images, 1789-1896" by Schlesinger, Israel, and Frendt, (1994, Simon & Schuster), p. 15. I have seen three different color variations of this textile, including sepia, mulberry red, and blue. This particular example has a hand-sewn binding along the top, lower, and left edges. Mounting: The textile was mounted and framed within our own conservation department, which is led by expert staff. We take great care in the mounting and preservation of flags and have framed thousands of examples. The gilded molding has a rippled profile and dates to the period between 1825 and 1850.The background is 100% cotton twill, black in color. The glazing is U.V. protective plexiglass. Feel free to contact us for more details. Condition: There is an all-over golden oxidation of the white fabric and there is very minor staining. There are tiny tack holes in each corner and there are minor nicks around the perimeter. * Collins relates that Germantown Printworks was operated by the Hewsons. In doing so he cites one of Worthington Chauncey Ford's books on George Washington, but it isn't clear which one (there are many) and no page numbers are given. John Hewson was an Englishman who came to America and opened his printing business on the advice of Benjamin Franklin. He was one of the first “calico printers” and is the earliest documented to have advertised printed kerchiefs. His ads for bandanas appear as early as June 20th, 1774. He is suspected of having produced the very first American kerchief that pictured an American president, which is documented in Collins as item 1 on page 48. Linda Eaton, curator at Winterthur, in 2012, is currently doing in depth research on the three printers of fabrics that were operating in Germantown in early America. She discovered that the owner and/or operator of Germantown Print Works, while not currently known, was not John Hewson. This information is not yet published. She also noted that Winterthur possessed examples of the two George Washington textiles...

Extraordinarily early (1806) printed linen kerchief glorifying George Washington, Germantown print works, Germantown, Pennsylvania Printed in sepia ink on coarse, white linen, this patriotic kerchief shows a standing portrait of George Washington, above which is a swag valance and the words “The Effect of Principle, Behold the Man”. The portrait is based on a mezzotint after Gilbert Stuart’s very famous painting of Washington in his later years. Stuart painted it in oil on canvas for a wealthy merchant by the name of William Constable, who commissioned the work for Alexander Hamilton. The kerchief is interesting because it is both American-made and documented. This is exceptionally unusual for any printed textile of the 19th century or prior and the earlier the time period the more unlikely an object is to be identified. This kerchief and a companion piece entitled “The Love of Truth Mark the Boy” (also glorifying Washington through the fabled story of the cherry tree), were made ca 1806 by Germantown Print Works in Germantown, Pennsylvania. To the left of Washington's image is a portion of his infamous farewell address to his troops at the end of the Revolutionary War. To the right is a short excerpt from his eulogy. Below these are three images. In the center is a square-rigged tall ship with “Commercial Union” above it, flanked by the American eagle on the left and the British lion...

PATRIOTIC SILK KERCHIEF OF THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD, WITH AN ENGRAVED IMAGE OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, CROSSED 34 STAR FLAGS, AN EAGLE, AND "UNION FOREVER" SLOGAN: Patriotic kerchiefs that date prior to the 1876 Centennial of American Independence are rare among surviving 19th century textiles. Printed on silk and made during the opening years of the Civil War, this example consists of a white ground with red and blue borders. Inside is a prominent, copper engraved, device that consists of a large image of George Washington, crowned by a spread winged eagle that grasps a billowing streamer in its beak and talons. The ribbon boasts the Federal sentiment "Union Forever." The likeness of Washington is derived from Gilbert Stuart's Athenaeum portrait. Below this is a facsimile of Washington's signature, cradled by crossed American flags, each with 34 stars arranged in circular medallions. Although political textile historian Herbert Ridgway Collins associated this kerchief with the centennial of American independence,* there is overwhelming evidence that it was produced earlier. The large scale is much more indicative of kerchiefs produced in the 1860's and prior. Made of silk, the binding is hand-stitched, which is also common of those produced before 1876. When these facts are added to the pro-Union Civil War slogan and flags in the 34 star count, the combination of all these factors points firmly to Civil War period manufacture. Kansas was admitted into the Union as the 34th state on January 29th, 1861, about two-and-a-half months before the Confederate assault on Fort Sumter that marked the beginning of the Civil War. The 34th star was officially added on July 4th of that year and the star count remained official until July 4th, 1863. Further evidence can be found in an example of this kerchief that resides in the collection of the Adams County, Pennsylvania Historical Society, with firm provenance to a woman by the name of Emma Yount. The story goes like this: “With the Battle of Gettysburg looming and the countryside in turmoil, the Union cavalry rode into Gettysburg on the afternoon of June 30, 1863. The troopers dismounted and lounged in the town while awaiting further orders. During that time, the seven year old daughter of innkeeper Israel Yount, Emma, was playing outside their home when a cavalryman asked her to come and visit with him while he was resting. The cavalryman told her that he missed his young daughter at home and asked if little Emma would hug and kiss him on the cheek to remind him of his daughter, who he felt he might not ever see again. Emma asked her mother if she could do as the cavalryman suggested, and her mother considered the circumstances and allowed Emma to do so. Before leaving, the cavalryman gave young Emma a silk handkerchief he was carrying that featured George Washington's image and patriotic border and flags. Emma kept that handkerchief until her death in 1946 and it was then donated to the Adams County Historical Society.” The trio of brass rings, hand-sewn along the top edge, would have been added by a former owner so that it could be hung vertically. The textile itself is both beautiful in design and rare. Outside of an example pictured by Collins in his book “Threads of History” (Smithsonian Press, 1979), and the copy in the Adams County Historical Society, only three others like it are known to have surfaced, including this example. This condition is excellent for the period and it survives as an exceptional relic of the War Between the States. It is of interest to note that kerchief bears marked similarities to another, especially rare, pro-Union variety, that was produced in London for the American market. Notably larger in scale, but very much alike in terms of the fabric, the printing, the shades of red and blue, the verbiage, and the general overall graphic feel, it was produced by Foster & Porter, a known, English maker of printed kerchiefs. Instead of featuring George Washington, the imagery centers on a large cannon...

ELONGATED PENNANT MADE FOR THE 1912 PRESIDENTIAL CAMPAIGN OF THEODORE ROOSEVELT & HIRAM JOHNSON, WHEN THEY RAN ON THE INDEPENDENT, BULL MOOSE / PROGRESSIVE PARTY TICKET: Elongated,...

This is a rare 31-star medallion printed American flag, celebrating the addition of California to the Union. The flag is printed on silk and has a spectacular “Great Star” canton pat...

The wood carving on this life-size Lincoln is amazing with a beautiful patina. It came out of a good Connecticut Folk Art collection. The body is primitive and was made to be covered...

Mr. Dooley at His Best. Edited by Elmer Ellis at the University of Missouri. With a Foreword by Franklin P. Adams. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1938. First edition, 1st printing, one of 520 copies with one page of the author's original manuscript. Frontispiece portrait. 291 pp. Buckram and decorated boards with a leather label. Finley Peter Dunne (1867- 1936) was an American humorist and writer from Chicago. In 1898 Dunne published Mr. Dooley in Peace and in War, a collection of his nationally syndicated Mr. Dooley sketches. Speaking with the thick verbiage and accent of an Irish immigrant from County Roscommon, the fictional Mr. Dooley expounded upon political and social issues of the day from his South Side Chicago Irish pub...

This fine hand crochet 48 star flag pillow is made with a blue velvet background or frame front and back.The insert is down & feather fill.

A French folk-art figural mantel clock in carved wood and composite commemorating a fighting unit “Les Sections du Temple” in the French Revolution. The clock depicts a single figure “sans culots” with a walking stick flanked on one side by a drum and on the other by a black mortar...

A playful yet strong early 20th century Scottish bagpiper's bonnet with a woven wool checkerboard headband and decorated with a large black ostrich feather plume and a white feather hackle, mounted on a turned wood stand.