5-Row Diamond Platinum Bracelet, circa 1940s

Name: 5-Row Diamond Platinum Bracelet, circa 1940s
Brand: Marianne Ostier
Price: 64800 USD
Availability: InStock

About the Item

Some jewelers have a fluid way with diamonds. Some produce feats of engineering, with innovative constructions that offer flexibility and a little bit of magic. The maker of this Vintage Diamond 5-Row Articulated Bombé Bracelet, made in the 20th century, possesses astonishing mastery of both. This exquisite sparkling jewel comes to life when worn and appears to grow larger and more magnificent as it curves around the wrist. The flexible articulated bracelet is crafted in platinum set with 155 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing an estimated total of 45.00 carats of E-F color and VVS-VS clarity. The diamonds are set in five tiered rows across the 7-inch (17.78 cm) length which graduate from the center-most row outward. On the wrist, the beautiful diamond grid swells upward in the center, creating a lifelike arching curve. The piece is crafted in the bombé style (French, meaning ‘bomb-shaped’ and named for the French dessert, bombe glacée or ice cream bomb). Both the artfulness and artisanship of this piece are quite special. The reverse side reveals how the settings are networked to make all the fabulous effects of dynamic movement and fluidity happen. The multitude of assembled links creates an effect of extreme delicacy. The diamonds are linked both across the width and diagonally, but from afar, the stones look completely separate and floating, like snowflakes gently wafting to the ground. From certain angles the outer rows appear to dangle like diamond charms. Across the width, the diamonds actually sit at three different elevations that build to the center row. This configuration enhances the magnificent sparkle and creates the illusion of additional movement. The bracelet is a true treat for the eyes in so many ways, most especially when it is adorning your wrist. The circular diamonds configured in a continuous bombé shape references the "Pelouse" style of Van Cleef & Arpels crafted in a similar manner with a flexible, spring-like base and diagonal rows of diamonds. The gemstones sparkle from a convex base, capturing light intermittently, which further enhances the stones’ brilliance and scintillation. The innovative aestheticism of the “Pelouse” style, combined with its pioneering techniques certainly influenced other fine jewelers at the time. The grouping of diamonds brilliantly mounted in platinum prongs likewise refers to the decorative “petit point” or Pointillism painting style where fluid surfaces were composed with distinct dots of paint. While the design of this bracelet is minimalist, consisting of round diamonds arranged in a regularized grid, the domed shape of this bracelet changes the minimalist look, giving the articulated bracelet a different inflection. When it comes to a sculptural object like jewelry, volume can change the feeling so dramatically. Measures approx. 7” in length, 0.6'' in width. 155 round brilliant diamonds weight approx. 45.00 carats total, estimated E-F colors, VVS-VS clarity. Overall weight approx. 57.54 grams, made in platinum. Unsigned, however, possibly attributed to Marianne Ostier; circa 1940s.

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Weight:

57.54 g

Dimensions:

Width: 0.6 in (15.24 mm)Length: 7 in (177.8 mm)