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SignedSchiaparelli MidCentury LeavesMotif AustrianCrystals GiltLinks Bracelet

About the Item

Signed "Schiaparelli" in script, this mid-century link bracelet features a textural-leaves motif characteristic of the Parisian couturier Elsa Schiaparelli. Like many of her couture designs since the 1930s, it is constructed of yellow-gold gilt-metal links that are as interesting on the back as they are on the front. Here, the openwork arched links are dominated on the front by pairs of prong-set dark thermoset leaves bracketed by gilt leaves and accented by colorful iridescent Austrian crystals. The five links, which have have filigree-style backs shaped like leaf veins, close with a fold-over clasp, which is secured by a safety chain with a spring-ring clasp. While Schiaparelli is known for surprising design elements that provoke a second look, the unusual larger leaves have a golden iridescence at some angles of lighting, while the clear crystals sparkle with a variety of cool tones and yellow (captured in our blurred photo) like the earliest aurora-borealis stones that Swarovski initially designed for Christian Dior in 1956. Historically, Schiaparelli is recognized for her progressive use of emerging 20th-Century materials such as rayon or Rhodiod for clothing and jewelry, which is why some of those pieces that include such distinct custom-made plastics, like the bracelet leaves, are in museum collections including The Met and V&A. Since Italian-born Elsa Schiaparelli had spent most of her time during WWII living in New York City, when she returned post-war to her Paris flagship she licensed "Schiaparelli" jewelry to be made in The States in the style of her prior mostly unsigned couture costume-jewelry pieces. Those commissioned one-off works were designed with some of the leading international paruriers, who also originated unique pieces with other Parisian couturiers such as Dior and Gabriel "Coco" Chanel. Please see some of our other listings for more early and mid 20th Century costume-jewelry treasures produced by the leading fashion designers, some of which have construction and/or materials that also enable identification of the collaborating parurier and/or craftsman.
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