Vintage Midcentury circa 1950, Diamond Ruby Sapphire Bird of Paradise Brooch

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Vintage Midcentury circa 1950, Diamond Ruby Sapphire Bird of Paradise Brooch

About the Item

This bird of paradise brooch is not only a quintessential midcentury jewel, but likewise a first-class conversation piece. Dating to circa 1950, it perfectly embodies the taste of the post-war era: warm gold tones such as red and yellow, combined with colourful gemstones that lend themselves especially well to figurative motifs. While the piece still shows characteristics of the late Art Déco style, its design anticipates the vividly coloured, figural novelty jewellery of the 1950s. The iconic bird of paradise motif was a brooch trend heralded by maisons such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, under whose influence this brooch, too, was created with masterful attention to detail. The bird's feathers are engraved, adding depth and detail. Rubies, sapphires and diamonds, mainly calibré-cut, emulate the bird's rich colouring as well as that of the flowering branch the bird is seated on. The gold shows the rare purity of 390 (approx. 9.5k), a purity used in Austria but never hallmarked. The piece was likely made in Vienna. A large double pin on the back allows the pin to be worn on heavier fabrics and furs as well. This type of pin is often found on midcentury pieces, seeing as they were popularly worn on fur coats. Its design and excellent craftsmanship make this brooch a true collector's piece for those who appreciate midcentury design. At once elegant and extravagant, the brooch remains eminently wearable until today. MATERIALS 15 diamonds, old European cut, approx. 0.30 ct altogether, Wesselton/H) – Crystal, J, vsi–pi 14 blue sapphires, faceted, approx. 1.45 ct altogether 23 rubies, baguette cut, approx. 0.93 ct altogether Gold 390/000, approx. 9.5k, white and slightly red HALLMARKS Not hallmarked DIMENSIONS 3.3 x 7.2 cm / 1.3 x 2.83 in CERTIFICATE Delivery with certificate issued by court-appointed expert Susanne Büsing, Vienna, dated 25th of November, 2013. Estimated replacement value: €11.700.

Metal:
9k Gold,Rose Gold,White Gold
Stone:
Diamond,Ruby,Sapphire
Weight:
22 g
Dimensions:
Height: 2.84 in (72 mm)Width: 1.3 in (33 mm)
Style:
Post-War
Period:
1950-1959
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1950
Condition:
Seller Location:
Berlin, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: 18-31661stDibs: LU156429333012