Belle Époque circa 1890, 1.92 Ct Diamond 1.7 Ct Red Spinel Natural Pearl Pendant

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Belle Époque circa 1890, 1.92 Ct Diamond 1.7 Ct Red Spinel Natural Pearl Pendant

About the Item

The years leading up to 1890 were witness to a true revolution in the field of jewellery. The rich, often heavy formal vocabulary of the neo-styles no longer seemed appropriate to the times. The ongoing technical revolution, also in jewellery making, had led to an increasingly repetitive use of forms and shapes, until they grew arbitrary and replaceable. Then, with the beginning of the new decade, it seemed that the crisis had been averted: pieces in gleaming white, airy designs set with pearls and diamonds, conquered the market of fine jewellery. The white colour was the unifying element of those jewels – in fact, „Weißjuwelen”, white jewels, has become the technical term in German-speaking countries. White diamonds and natural pearls were placed in settings of silver, later on in platinum and white gold. The designs of this time are light and playful, consisting of laurels, leaves and floral tendrils, stylised into ethereal shapes. These white jewels were the perfect way to showcase single coloured gemstones. The pendant at hand is such a piece: A large, pink spinel in a rose hue takes centre stage. The cushion-cut gem is set in gold, seemingly floating in the middle of the piece, held only by delicate knife wires. The surrounding diamonds and natural pearls, however, are set in gold with an additional overlay of silver, so that no yellow tarnishes their gleaming white. We are made to think of foliate scrolls and blossoms, amidst which the central spinel blooms like a rose. It is this exact style which has become synonymous with the Belle Époque, and which so perfectly captures the essence of the time, when makers of art and jewellery grew increasingly aware of the onset of a new century and era. The pendant will be delivered with a silver chain as well as with the independent certificate of a renowned gemmological institute. MATERIALS A natural spinel, pink, approx. 1,70 ct, approx. 6,7 x 6,7 x 4,0 mm / 0,26 x 0,26 x 0,16 in Eight natural pearls, diameters 3,9 – 4,1 mm / 0,15 x 0,16 in 36 diamonds, old European cut, approx. 1,92 ct altogether, Wesselton/H – Top Cape/K-L, pi 20 diamonds, rose cut, good quality, diameter approx. 1,3 – 2,2 mm / 0,051 – 0,087 in Gold 585/000, resp. 14 karat Silver HALLMARKS The clasp of the necklace with standard mark "925" DIMENSIONS The pendant (with loop) 3,8 x 3,5 cm / 1,5 x 1,38 in Length of chain 48,5 cm / 19,09 in CERTIFICATE Delivery with detailed independent certificate of the DEGEB (Deutsche Gesellschaft fuer Edelsteinbewertung/German Association for Gemstone Evaluation) in Idar-Oberstein dated 19.06.2017. Estimated value: 7.750,- Euro. FURTHER NOTES The back of the pendant shows old fittings for mounting on a larger piece or as a brooch. These do not diminish the quality, merely indicate that it might once have been part of a set or larger convertible piece. Oftentimes, especially lavish pieces or sets could be taken apart and the elements worn separately.

Metal:
14k Gold,Silver
Stone:
Diamond,Natural Pearl,Spinel
Stone Cut:
Old European Cut
Weight:
9.6 g
Dimensions:
Width: 1.38 in (35 mm)Length: 1.5 in (38 mm)
Style:
Belle Époque
Period:
1890-1899
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1890
Condition:
Very good condition, the back with traces of previous mounting since the pendant might have been part of a larger set.
Seller Location:
Berlin, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: 17-07961stDibs: LU156426602592