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4.5 Carat Diamond "Mad Heart" Pendant in Platinum with Silver Akoya Pearls

About the Item

This gorgeous, modern pendant was probably made in the 1970's or 1980's and started out in life as a brooch, sans pearls. We converted it to a pendant and capped the ends with a pair of baroque Akoya (Japanese saltwater cultured) pearls; they look great, AND they eliminate the possibility of milady accidentally puncturing herself with those pointy platinum stems! We purchased this brooch many years ago from a New York estate that included several custom pieces from an unknown Manhattan jeweler. That's the only back story we're privy too, and we haven't been able to fill in the blanks because the piece isn't stamped. However, the workmanship speaks for itself. The selection and mounting of the diamonds -- the marquises, rounds and baguettes are all carefully graduated, meticulously set and backholed -- are superb. The baguettes are especially impressive -- channel-setting these slender stones in a line that curves in three dimensions, with no gaps, and with the stones tapering down to the size of a salt flake requires the kind of skill that's lavished on only very fine and expensive jewelry. Our estimate of the diamond weight, which is conservative, is based on the following count: Rounds -- 29 full cuts, ranging in size from 1.2mm to 2.8mm (0.005 to 0. carats) for a total estimated weight of 0.98 carats. These stones are all set with one side secured in a curved channel and the other side secured with a single prong. We rate these diamonds H-I color and VS2 clarity. Marquises -- 18 stones ranging in length from 4.5mm to 6mm (0.07 carats to 0.25 carats) for a total estimated weight of 2.9 carats. These diamonds are all set with protective V-shaped prongs at the their tips. We rate these stones G-H color and VS2-SI1 clarity. Baguettes -- 36 straight baguettes with lengths ranging from approximately 2mm to 3mm and a total estimated weight of 0.96 carats. These diamonds are all channel-set. We rate them H-I color and VS1-2 clarity. You'll note that our estimated diamond weights actually add up to 4.8 carats. Since we're not able to physically weigh the diamonds, we're relying on their measurements, which gets a little tricky when there are at least twenty different stone sizes, so while we're pretty confident the total diamond weight is closer to 5 carats (and it would be customary for a jeweler to design a piece around a round number, with "five carats" having a very nice ring to it), we're playing it safe and rounding down to 4.5 carats. We guarantee all diamonds are earth-mined. Pieces like this aren't good candidates for lab diamonds because the cutting expertise simply doesn't exist to cost-effectively produce this many different sizes, but even if that weren't the case, we know these are natural, earth-mined stones because of the age of the piece and the fact we acquired it before lab diamonds were readily available. At 8mm and 9mm, the pearls are relative large for Akoyas and they boast luscious, bright shades of silvery blue. Note that we purchased this pair from Seven Seas Pearls (based in Los Angeles, with offices in Germany and Japan) which deals only with saltwater cultured pearls (no freshwater and nothing from China); we can confidently guarantee them to be undyed, untreated pearls from Japan. We placed a simple double-wire bale behind the crest of the pendant's wider lobe. This bale will accommodate typical chain hardware (the interior measurements is approximately 5mm wide and 4mm deep). We like this pendant near the neck and on a chain that doesn't distract the eye, so we think the 14K white gold round omega chain, shown in the photos, is a good match for this piece, and it's included in the purchase price.* It's 16" long, Italian-made, semi-rigid, 1.5mm thick and has a lobster clasp. This pendant is just over 2-1/4" long and just under 1-3/4" wide. It weighs 17.8 grams, with a total diamond weight of approximately 4.8 carats and a pearl weight of 1.89 grams (0.5 momme). The omega chain weighs an additional 8.1 grams. As noted above, this pendant is not stamped. We will provide an appraisal for insurance purposes which will confirm the pendant is made of platinum. *Please contact us for adjusted pricing and options if you would prefer a different type (length, link, metal) of chain, or if you would rather purchase the pendant without a chain.
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    4.5 ct
  • Dimensions:
    Height: 2.29 in (58 mm)Width: 1.74 in (44 mm)Length: 15.99 in (406 mm)
  • Sold As:
    Set of 2
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    Circa 1980
  • Condition:
    Additions or alterations made to the original: This platinum and diamond pendant was originally a brooch, probably 40 years old but in excellent condition. We converted it to a pendant and added the new Akoya pearls. The 14K white gold omega chain, included, is also new. . Polished.
  • Seller Location:
    Sherman Oaks, CA
  • Reference Number:
    Seller: FD05011stDibs: LU1673121031502
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