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CrownTrifari 1940s Philippe RareParure InvisiblySetCrystal EarringBroochNecklace

About the Item

In the 1940s, Trifari's French-born artistic director Alfred Philippe, who had created fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1920s, designed this patent-pending flora-motif gilt-metal clear-crystal parure. The rare set of four pieces includes a serpentine-link necklace with invisibly-set colorless-rhinestones pendant, plus complimentary brooch and pair of French-clip earrings. With high-end jewelry crafting experience, Philippe was the first to introduce luxurious invisible settings to costume jewelry, which made his selection of high-quality crystals appear like some of the most expensive gems such as diamonds. Like this parure, such "invisibly-set diamante" pieces are among the most collectible and thus highest priced. The sliding large pendant features six marquise rhinestones in a sinuous leaf shape and four tiny rose-cut ones for more sparkle around the reflective twisting stem-like frame. The pendant measures nearly 1.75-inches long by 1.25-inches wide, while the diameter of its choker chain when fastened is 5 inches. The stylized-leaf earrings each showcase three smaller marquise crystals set within a twisted heart-shape frame with three baguettes on its upright stem. Each earring measures 1.25-inches long by 0.75-inch wide. The swirled-frame brooch depicts a stylized orchid with marquises as flowers and rose-cut crystals as buds, along with five baguettes on two curved leaves emerging from the twisted stem. It measures 1.75-inches long by 1.25-inches wide. The brooch fastens with a safety-clasp pin on the back, where the embossed crown-symbol with text "Trifari Pat.Pend." is stamped within a rectangle on the underside of the curved leaves above it. The necklace fastens with a tiny fold-over clasp stamped "Trifari Pat Pend" on the underside. The outsides of the earring French-clips are engraved with crown-symbol "Trifari", while the inside is stamped "Pat.Pend.". After the crown symbol was added to the Trifari signature in the early 1940s, it could always be found during Philippe's tenure on at least one piece in a parure that had wide enough space to discretely include it. This symbol over the "T" pays homage to one of Philippe's most popular designs since he joined Trifari in 1930--a crown-shaped brooch.
  • Creator:
  • Metal:
    Gold,Gilt Metal
  • Stone:
    Diamond,Crystal
  • Stone Cut:
    Mixed Cut
  • Dimensions:
    Diameter: 5 in (127 mm)Length: 16 in (406.4 mm)
  • Sold As:
    Set of 3
  • Style:
    Modern
  • Place of Origin:
    United States
  • Period:
    1940-1949
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1940s
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244219098582
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