Antique circa 1914, 16.02 Carat Diamond White Gold Laurel Tiara and Necklace

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Antique circa 1914, 16.02 Carat Diamond White Gold Laurel Tiara and Necklace

About the Item

For thousands of years, the laurel wreath has been one of the highest honorary decorations of the Western world. In ancient rome, the Corona triumphalis was the highest distinction awarded to victorious generals. Then, in the years around 1800, when the art of antiquity once again became the ideal, the laurel wreath motif reappeared in architecture and the arts. In the beginning of the 20th century, one looked back at classical art once again. The heavy, golden splendour of the 19th century seemed outdated; instead, the makers of jewellery created jewels in the garland style – white, airy and ethereal in apperance. Laurel wreaths and flower garlands were characteristic of that style, and quite a few laurel tiaras were created at the time. One of the first to do so was Fabergés work master Albert Holmström, who created the so-called 'Westminster Laurel Wreath tiara', purchased by the Duke of Westminster in 1906. Other noble families owned laurel tiaras as well. In 1905, the Swedish Crown Princess Margaret received a Boucheron laurel tiara as a wedding gift from her parents. In modern times, in 1999, Queen Mathilde of Belgium received a similar tiara as a wedding gift; however, the piece was already an antique, having been made by Hennel and Sons in 1912. Due to its royal provenance, it is known today as the "Brabant laurel wreath tiara". The tiara at hand was created in the early years of the 20th century as well. More specifically, it was created in or after 1912, seeing as white gold was only invented that year. Here, the white gold still shows a slightly warm shimmer, so that platinum was overlaid onto the gold to achieve the desired, purely white look. More than 200 diamonds of approx. 16.02 ct are perfectly presented in the white metals. An especially large oval diamond of approx. 1.30 ct takes the centre stage and shows beautiful brilliance and fire. Each of the diamonds has been cut by hand. Just like the Boucheron and Brabant tiaras, this jewel, too, can be converted into a necklace. As is often the case with antique jewellery, especially precious jewels were supposed to be worn in more ways than one. Through screws on the back of the laurel wreath, the headband can be removed and the piece transformed. A separate string of laurel leaves, set with 91 diamonds, acts as a clasp. The tiara is beautifully preserved and allows us a glimpse into the last years of the Belle Époque, before the wars changed Europe forever. It is an exemplary piece of Belle Époque jewellery – and witness to an era that loved beauty above all else. MATERIALS 1 diamond, old European cut, oval, 1.30 ct, Top Wesselton/F, si 2 diamonds, drop shape, 1.00 ct altogether, Top Wesselton/F, vsi–si 288 diamonds, old European cut, approx. 13.72 ct altogether, Top Wesselton/G – Crystal/J, si–p1 White gold 585/000, resp. 14 karat Platinum front Silver headband DIMENSIONS Maximum height of tiara (if measured from base of headband) 2.3 cm / 0.91 inches Length of necklace (if closed) approx. 38.5 cm / 15.16 inches CERTIFICATE The tiara will be delivered with a certificate of authenticity.

Metal:
14k Gold,White Gold,Platinum
Stone:
Diamond
Stone Cut:
Old European Cut
Weight:
69.1 g
Style:
Edwardian
Period:
1910-1919
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1912-14
Condition:
Very good condition, one of the laurel elements moves slightly when attached to the headband but is well secured, the headband is a modern addition in antique style.
Seller Location:
Berlin, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: 17-13101stDibs: LU156427793582