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Scarce Antique 18th Century Mughal 5ct Colombian Emerald Gold Ring Certified
About the Item
A scarce late 18th century high-karat gold and emerald ring, circa 1780.
This superb gold ring is set with a large faceted natural emerald gemstone, approximately 5cts in weight. The emerald is of Colombian origin, with no colour enhancement and moderate indications of clarity enhancement (GCS report: 5784-1427).
It displays a lush green tropical rainforest hue and it’s set in a closed and foil-backed setting, this was the most popular method of gem setting in the 18th century as it added luminosity and made the stones appear to glow from within, which was particularly important in a period when candlelight was the only non-natural light available.
The gemstone is mounted in a gold crimpled collet setting with a domed underside. The openwork shoulders exhibit a floral motif, leading to a smooth tapering band. The yellow gold mount has developed an excellent warm patina and feels like silk on the finger from the countless years of wear.
In terms of the origin of the ring, there are clear stylistic similarities with 18th century European Rococo period rings, however the cut of the stone and the design of the flower used decorating the shoulders might indicate that it was made elsewhere, possibly late Mughal dynasty India, and in the manner of European rings. Mughal emperors were lovers of precious stones, numerous references show the strong cultural belief in the magical properties of gemstones. As much as these gems were a symbol of the opulence and dignity of the empire, they were also treasured as protective talismans. Emeralds were enormously popular with the Mughal Court, whose emperors referred to them as “Tears of the Moon” because of their opaque transparency. In the Mughal period, the greatest emeralds arrived in India from Colombia through commercial exchange via the Portuguese-controlled ports of Goa. The influence of the West on Mughal jewels can also be seen in metalworking technology introduced by European jewellers, who were welcomed at court and in some cases went on to play a role in imperial workshops.
UK size Q 1/2, US size 8.5
The ring weighs 4.96 grams and tests as high-karat gold (21K). Emerald measures 11mm x 10mm x (approx) 6.5mm. Since the emerald is mounted in a foil-backed collet setting, a fully accurate reading of the depth measurement would require the stone to be taken out of the setting, a fair estimate based on the approximate depth (6.5mm) of the stone is 5 carats. The outer band is stamped with two hallmarks. One of these is a French import mark and the other is only partially visible.
Despite its impressive 240 year old history, the ring remains in good and wearable condition. Upon magnification there are some light abrasions to the facet junctions of the emerald, and signs of wear to the ring, as to be expected with jewels of this age. A real beauty from a bygone era. Colombian Emeralds are the most sought-after and prized emeralds in the world, known for their vivid green colour. The ring comes with a full gemmological report from GCS (Gemmological Certification Services).
- Ring Size:8.5 US, Resizable
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:4.96 g
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1780
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU2845222624102
Resizing is available.
About the Seller
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Established in 2019
1stDibs seller since 2022
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Typical response time: 14 hours
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 14 days of delivery.
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