1800s Golay Fils Stahl 18kt Pearl Diamond Ruby Emerald Bird Lapel Pendant Watch

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1800s Golay Fils Stahl 18kt Pearl Diamond Ruby Emerald Bird Lapel Pendant Watch

About the Item

A Very Rare Signed Golay Fils & Stahl, Geneve, 18kt Yellow Gold, Pearl Set, Rose Cut Diamond, Ruby & Emerald Set ‘Swallow’ Lapel & Pendant Watch, Circa 1840-1880 Basic Specs & Overview *Pendant Drop Dimensions: 75mm x 45mm (top of bird to bottom of lapel watch & 45mm across at widest point) *Watch Face Dimensions : 32mm x 32mm *Fully Signed, Cuvette & Dial & Serial Numbered *Recently Serviced & Perfect Working Condition & no stones missing *Extremely Fancy Made Enamel Dial Stone Breakdown *104 Diamonds *118 Pearls *45 Emerald *1 Ruby Additional special features to Note *Fancy Two Tone Blue & Gold Hand Painted Enamel Dial with Breguet Telephone style Numerals & seconds complication located at the 6 with hour markers indicated by gold markers on an outer ring in between each numeral *The movement is also a fully jeweled highest-grade nickel lever movement The present watch designed by one of the most prominent firms of the period: Golay Fils & Stahl. For those unfamiliar with the name, I have placed more about the firm’s history below who are most notable for being named the official exclusive jeweler to the royal family of Romania and is also responsible for creating this extremely beautiful one of a kid example offered here today which demonstrates the firm’s master craftsmanship in their ability for state of the art gem setting techniques which was an extremely difficult task for most firms back then to execute as technology was so limited during this timeframe. Additionally since emerald and diamonds are of different weights it required not only the ability to locate, cut and match the stones, but also to create settings which could hold both gems types and immense planning on the part of the master watch maker who created this piece to be able to set these stones in such close proximity to one another to give it the exquisite double stone checkered pattern it exhibits here today. As one can see the watch is entirely encrusted with carefully well-matched stones which give it a mesmerizing effect that no photo can really do it justice. In addition to the beautiful gem-setting found on this piece, when one turns the pendant to the dial to read the time, it is clear just how much attention to detail was applied in nearly every faucet of this creation. Another interesting element as during this timeframe it would be considered rude to check the time in the company of others hence why when worn the dial side would face in towards the body. By observing the special attention to detail On the dial, the firm spared no expense of time as this would be considered one of the firms most premier dial designs as well with its design having so many unique elements to it that most other pendant watches of this period simply do not possess as they require so much additional workmanship to execute further suggesting it was most definitely a very important commission for an important client. For example, the dial is designed with an attribute called a ‘telephone’ dial which has circles around the numbers and on this present example it is with gold inlay surrounding each Breguet numeral which is further hand painted in a beautiful sky blue. In addition to this very beautiful combination, you will find that at each number a platinum pyramid marker has been placed just above the numeral with additional gold markers in between the numerals to apply for hours in between as part of something called an outer ring. This is not on every timepiece of this period as well and would also be considered a special feature. In addition, to add further it also shows the time in seconds with the complication located at the six in a separate circle making it all around just a beautiful timepiece in every possible way. On the movement which also is in perfect condition, it is fully jeweled and would be considered one of the highest swiss grade movements for its period with a nickel lever movement. To read more about the firm incase unfamiliar please find detail below and for additional photos, video or questions please do not hesitate to ask… Catalog note Golay Fils & Stahl : Brief Overview of the Firm The firm first opened in 1837 in Geneva and also still exists today producing exclusive jewelry nearly 200 years later. Masterpiece enamel designs such as the present example which are signed Golay LeResche et Fils / Stahl as the present example is were exhibited in the Musée de l'Horlogerie et de l'Emaillerie in Geneva from 26 May 2000 to 16 January 2001 under the subject of "Les Heures Précieuses, Golay Fils & Stahl, Genève 1837 - 1940". Golay LeResche & later known under the name Golay Fils & Stahl were named the official exclusive jeweler to the royal family of Romania. King Carol I of Romania was one of the firms most loyal customers into the late 1800s and was known for having visited their shop regularly. In addition to being the royal jeweler to the Romanian royal family during this period, They produced notable creations for King Carlos I of Portugal, Prince of Damrong of Siam and the Maharajah of Baroda and the Maharaja of Patiala. There are only a few examples known today of the firm’s works available today as each example was specially ordered for international royal clientele only during this timeframe and on most occasions as royal gifts so each one is extremely detail oriented and piece unique encompassing the very best techniques and workmanship available to produce creations of only the most extensive designs. For example: the present piece highlights the firm’s master craftsmanship in gem setting methods which would have been virtually impossible given contemporary methods available by most other firms back then. For this timeframe, the present piece is a beautiful work of art which had every small detail thought out and would be extremely difficult to execute specifically with the limited technology during this timeframe as the biggest obstacle were not only in relating to how to set stones so closely together and in such an intricate pattern but also to match the colors of the emeralds and the diamonds to on another so that each one maintains perfect symmetry when observed. As a result, there was a tremendous of workmanship that went into every element of this piece from locating the gems, matching them, crafting the intricate setting to allow for close proximately of colored stones next to diamonds which have different weights as well as cutting the stones themselves. To examine the patter under close detail, please review the close-up photo provided as well. Additionally, the motif of nature and time is a very common tone during this period making this a very iconic example to own for one’s collection and a complete stunner whether worn as a necklace pendant, brooch on a coat, or charm on a bracelet. Styled / How it can be worn The piece can be worn interchangeably In three styles, 1. swallow alone on lapel or sweater 2. Swallow and Lapel connected (for an event most likely) * This is especially interesting, Seeing as during this timeframe it would be considered rude to check the time in the company of others while at an event especially a royal event and as a result the piece was designed in a manner where the time could be concealed as part of the design of a brooch but still its user could check the time without their company seeing them check it 3. Swallow on lapel of coat or sweater and lapel on necklace which matches or both on necklace as a pendant depending occasion.