Asprey Peacock

Favored for over two centuries by European royalty, movie stars, rock music legends and England’s elite, Asprey International Limited’s reputation for creating elegant, high-quality furniture, jewelry and decorative objects is without equal. The storied manufacturer’s motto — “It can be done” — exemplifies their approach to design, which has proven over time to be both dynamic and enduring. To this day, Asprey International Limited remains a go-to purveyor of luxury goods and bespoke design services.

The roots of Asprey International Limited can be traced all the way back to 1781 when it was founded by William Asprey in Mitcham, Surrey. The business moved to its revered modern location, 166 Bond Street, in 1847. The company’s highly accurate regulator clock, once displayed in the window of their flagship, became a frequent stop for Londoners wishing to reset their watches.

Asprey first gained renown for its manufacture of exquisitely engineered dressing cases, which were compact pieces of luggage that travelers would use to tote their cosmetics and toiletries. At the International Exhibition of 1862, the company received a gold medal for its excellent dressing-case designs and also earned a Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria for their manufacture. Upon his ascension to the throne, King Edward II introduced incredibly formal Buckingham Palace court presentations, balls and soirées, resulting in a huge demand for diamond jewels starting with his coronation in 1902. The court jewelers Asprey, Garrard, Carrington and the newly opened London branch of Cartier were all overwhelmed with orders for sumptuous diamond jewelry to be worn at the king’s elaborate coronation. Currently, Asprey International Limited holds a Royal Warrant from His Royal Majesty Charles, Prince of Wales, for jewelry and silver.

Asprey continued to build its reputation for the production of luxury goods including tableware and silverplate pieces throughout the Victorian period and into the early 20th century. Especially known for its designs of the 1920s and ‘30s, Asprey International Limited considers the Art Deco period to have been its golden age. Their designers embraced the spirited originality of the period with open arms, and Asprey enjoyed a time of intense creativity and debuted a wealth of iconic creations throughout the mid-century modern period, too.

Asprey artisans have designed bespoke pieces for such notable celebrities as British musician Ringo Starr and American actress Angelina Jolie. They have also designed made-to-order accessories for Hollywood movies, most notably the Edwardian-style “Coeur de la Mer,” which was a piece of costume jewelry from James Cameron’s 1997 hit, Titanic. The company’s recreation of the piece — this time designed with actual gems sourced from Sri Lanka — fetched more than $2 million at a fundraiser held in Princess Diana’s honor in 1998. Asprey previously acted as the official jewelry designer for the BAFTA awards and collaborated with Ferrari’s Formula 1 team during the late 1990s.

Asprey International Limited has received many awards and recognitions for its timeless designs. Most notably, it was awarded the Queen's Award to Industry in 1975. The London College of Arms bestowed upon the brand a new official coat of arms in 2006 to mark its esteemed 225-year-long legacy of excellence.

On 1stDibs, find antique Asprey International Limited decorative objects, lighting, serveware and silver and jewelry.

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.

Antique and vintage brooches, which are decorative jewels traditionally pinned to garments and used to fasten pieces of clothing together where needed, have seen increasing popularity in recent years.

Given their long history, brooches have expectedly taken on a variety of different shapes and forms over time, with jewelers turning to assorted methods of ornamentation for these accessories, including enameling and the integration of pearls and gemstones.

Cameo brooches that originated during the Victorian age are characterized by a shell carved in raised relief that feature portraits of a woman’s profile, while 19th-century micromosaic brooches, comprising innumerable individually placed glass fragments, sometimes feature miniature depictions of a pastoral scene in daily Roman life.

At one time, brooches were symbols of wealth, made primarily from the finest metals and showcasing exquisite precious gemstones. Today, these jewels are inclusive and universal, and you don’t have to travel very far to find an admirer of brooches. They can be richly geometric in form, such as the ornate diamond pins dating from the Art Deco era, or designer-specific, such as the celebrated naturalistic works created by Tiffany & Co., the milk glass and gold confections crafted by Trifari or handmade vintage Chanel brooches of silk or laminated sheer fabric.

Brooches are versatile and adaptable. These decorative accessories can be worn in your hair, on hats, scarves and on the lower point of V-neck clothing. Pin a dazzling brooch to the lapel of your blazer-and-tee combo or add a cluster of smaller pins to your overcoat. And while brooches have their place in “mourning jewelry,” in that a mourning brooch is representative of your connection to a lost loved one, they’re widely seen as romantic and symbolic of love, so much so that a hardcore brooch enthusiast might advocate for brooches to be worn over the heart.

Today, find a wide variety of antique and vintage brooches on 1stDibs, including gold brooches, sapphire brooches and more.