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Bulgari Ruby Diamond Gold Necklace and Earring Suite
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
A 1980's Bulgari ruby and diamond necklace and earring suite in 18k gold; the necklace designed as
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold

Bulgari Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Flower Earrings
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bulgari Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Flower Earrings These vintage Bulgari earrings are full of bold
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Retro Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Ruby Bi-Colour 18k Gold and Stainless Steel Link Necklace
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
A timeless Bulgari Ruby-set Bicoloured Necklace mounted in 18k gold and stainless steel. Each link
Category

1990s Link Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Star Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Steel, Stainless Steel

Bulgari Ruby Sapphire and Pearl Flexible Gold Cuff Bracelet Bangle
By Bulgari
Located in Austin, TX
A beautiful and classic flexible 18K yellow gold cuff bangle set with pearls, sapphires and rubies
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Contemporary Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Ruby Sapphire and Pearl Flexible Gold Cuff Bracelet Bangle
Bulgari Ruby Sapphire and Pearl Flexible Gold Cuff Bracelet Bangle
H 0.75 in W 2.38 in D 0.25 in Dm 2.88 in L 8.5 in
Iconic Bvlgari Ruby & Sapphire Pendant Necklace
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Iconic Bulgari Ruby & Sapphire Pendant Necklace A very rare necklace featuring certified unheated
Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Ceylon Ruby "Serpenti" Bracelet
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
This opulent five-coil gold, Ceylon ruby and diamond "Serpenti" bracelet dates from the Dolce Vita
Category

Vintage 1950s Italian Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Diamond, Ruby Art Deco Brooch
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
BULGARI Diamond, Ruby Art Deco Brooch An art deco platinum brooch, set with old cut diamonds and
Category

Vintage 1930s Italian Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Bulgari Cabochon Sapphire & Ruby Ring Set
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bulgari 18 karat yellow gold and 4.49 carat cabochon ruby ring paired with a 4.53 carat cabochon
Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Band Rings

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold

Bulgari Burmese Ruby Diamond Cocktail Ring.
By Bulgari
Located in London, GB
Bulgari Burmese ruby and diamond ring. A natural unenhanced oval old cut Burmese ruby is set
Category

Vintage 1970s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Burma Ruby and Diamond Bypass Ring
By Bulgari
Located in New Orleans, LA
This exquisite Bulgari "Toi et Moi" ring, meaning "you and me" in French, displays both the finest
Category

20th Century Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Bulgari Diamond, Ruby & Emerald Triple Stranded Bracelet
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bulgari Diamond, Ruby & Emerald Triple Stranded Bracelet This stunning Bulgari bracelet, crafted
Category

20th Century Italian Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Bulgari Sapphire and Ruby Dome Shaped Ring
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bulgari Dome Shaped Ring crafted in 18k yellow gold, showcasing two blue cabochon sapphires and one
Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Dome Rings

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Bulgari Diamond Sapphire Ruby Yellow Gold Earrings
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
A pair of 18k yellow gold earrings, set with brilliant-cut diamonds, sapphire, and ruby, signed
Category

Vintage 1950s Italian Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Bulgari Natural Unenhanced Burmese Ruby Diamond Ring
By Bulgari
Located in London, GB
Bulgari Burmese ruby and diamond 'Trombino' ring. An important piece, set to centre with a cushion
Category

Vintage 1930s Italian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Bulgari 1980s Ruby Cabochon Gold Chain Ring
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
1980s 18k gold chain ring by Bvlgari, with oval ruby cabochon (approx. 2.08ct). Ring size 7.25-7.5
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian More Rings

Materials

Ruby, Gold

Vintage Bulgari Diamond & Unheated Burma Ruby Ring – 3.56ctw
By Bulgari
Located in Sandnes, NO
This exquisite piece pairs Bulgari’s iconic craftsmanship with carefully selected antique gemstones
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Contemporary Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Bulgari Yellow Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald & Diamond Swan Brooch
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bulgari Yellow Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald & Diamond Swan Brooch A Bulgari brooch from 1988, crafted
Category

20th Century Italian Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold

Bulgari Diamond Sapphire Ruby Yellow Gold Platinum Brooch
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
An 18k gold and platinum brooch, set with brilliant diamonds, sapphire, and ruby, signed Bulgari
Category

Vintage 1950s Italian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Bulgari Retro Tubogas Style Gold and Ruby Necklace
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
An 18k yellow gold and ruby necklace by Bulgari in the retro Tubogas style. Made in Italy, circa
Category

Vintage 1950s Retro Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Peridot Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Earrings
By Bulgari
Located in Napoli, NA
Iconic Bulgari design for these Bold clip on/pin earrings, designed and made in Italy in solid 18k
Category

Late 20th Century Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Peridot, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Exquisite Burma Ruby Diamond Estate Bracelet in Platinum
By Bulgari
Located in Dallas, TX
Dazzling Bulgari bracelet crafted in noble platinum and featuring approximately 10 carats of fine
Category

Late 20th Century Italian More Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Rare Bulgari Onyx, Ruby and Gold “Half Moon” Set
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Rare Bulgari Onyx, Ruby and Gold “Half Moon” Set comprising Necklace and Earrings. Made in Italy
Category

Vintage 1970s Link Necklaces

Materials

Onyx, Ruby, Gold

Bulgari Rare Ruby 2 Tone 18k Gold Tubogas Cufflinks
By Bulgari
Located in Simpsonville, SC
Enhance your attire with the refined elegance of the Bvlgari 18K Gold and Ruby Cufflinks. A
Category

Late 20th Century Cufflinks

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Bulgari Naturalia Diamond Ruby Fish Yellow Gold Band Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Holland, PA
18k Yellow Gold Naturalia Fish Diamond And Ruby Band Ring by Bulgari. With 20 round brilliant cut
Category

20th Century Italian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

1980s 18k gold Bulgari bangle with ruby, sapphire and emerald
By Bulgari
Located in London, GB
This classic 1980s Bulgari bangle is made of 18k gold and adorned with cabochon rubies, sapphires
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Contemporary Bangles

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Bulgari Diamond Burma Ruby Bombe Earrings in 18 Karat Gold
By Bulgari
Located in Dallas, TX
Exceptional and highly collectible 1980s Bulgari earrings of bombe design, each centering on a
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Tubogas Gold Ring with Rock Crystal, Ruby and Diamonds
By Bulgari
Located in Magenta, IT
crystal, a cabochon ruby and brilliant-cut diamonds. Bulgari hallmark (BB in an hexagon), italian maker
Category

Late 20th Century Italian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Crystal, Diamond, Rock Crystal, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Cartier Exceptional Ruby and Diamond High Jewelry Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold
By Cartier
Located in Dallas, TX
pairs beautifully with Bulgari ruby and diamond earrings from the same 1980s period which are a separate
Category

Vintage 1980s French Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bvlgari Bulgari Band Ring 18k Gold Cabochon Ruby Diamond AGL Certificate
By Bulgari
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A vintage Bulgari band ring made 18k gold, featuring cabochon ruby and diamonds. The ring comes
Category

Vintage 1970s Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Bulgari Heart Shaped Ruby Diamond Sapphire Yellow Gold Necklace Set
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
diamonds, set at the center with graduated heart-shaped rubies and cabochon sapphires. The bracelet
Category

Vintage 1940s Italian More Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Bulgari Gold Earrings and Ring Set with Ruby, Emerald and Diamonds
By Bulgari
Located in Monaco, MC
Bulgari Earrings and Ring in yellow gold, white gold set with cabochon cut emerald and rubies
Category

20th Century Italian Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Burmese Ruby (6.00TW) and Diamond (3.50TW) "Trombino" Ring Circa 1935
By Bulgari
Located in Carmel, IN
Conceived by Giorgio Bulgari in 1932 the very first Trombino Bulgari Ring was entirely set with
Category

Vintage 1930s Italian Art Deco Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Original 1985 Bulgari Burma Ruby Cabochon Diamond Yellow White Gold Pendant
By Bulgari
Located in Valenza, IT
chic piece is a beautiful example of Bulgari's golden age craftsmanship and creativity. The iconic Ruby
Category

Vintage 1980s Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, White Gold

Bulgari, Italy Estate Gold and Ruby Bombe Ring of Zig Zag Design
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
An estate gold and ruby ring of bombé, band style design, with the rubies channel- set in a zig zag
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Bulgari Natural No Heat Burma Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Ring
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
The Bvlgari ring features an oval-shaped burma ruby no heat measuring 9.85 x 7.00 x 4.28 mm and
Category

20th Century American Engagement Rings

Materials

Sapphire, Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Hematite, Ruby and Diamond Torsade Necklace with a 43ct Yellow Sapphire
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
with cabochon rubies. Length of the necklace approximately 395mm. Signed Bulgari, numbered.
Category

Vintage 1980s Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Ruby, Hematite, White Diamond, Diamond, Yello...

60's BULGARI set in blue topaz, diamonds and rubies. Ring and earrings
By Bulgari
Located in Valenza, IT
as one of its main interpreters. This spectacular Bulgari set in blue topaz, diamonds and rubies
Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Topaz, Blue Topaz, 18k Gold

Bulgari Diamond Multi-Gem Ruby 18K Gold Platinum Mariner Link Chain Necklace
By Bulgari
Located in Philadelphia, PA
three larger mariner links bezel set with cushion shaped sugarloaf cabochons Ruby, sapphire and emerald
Category

Vintage 1980s Link Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Bulgari Multi Gem Gold Flower Bracelet
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
: Bulgari Metal: 18k yellow gold Gemstones: Diamonds: Approx. 1.5 carats Rubies: Approx. 1.5 carats Emeralds
Category

20th Century Italian Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold

Bulgari Multi-Gemstone and Diamond Floral Brooch
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
: Diamonds, Cabochon Sapphires, Emeralds, Rubies Measurements: Approx 2.25" Long Signed: Bulgari
Category

20th Century Italian Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Multi-gemstone, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow ...

Bvlgari Vintage Bulgari Earrings Iolite Tourmaline 18k Gold
By Bulgari
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A pair of vintage Bulgari earrings, crafted in 18k gold, feature iolite, tourmaline, and rubies
Category

Vintage 1970s Drop Earrings

Materials

Iolite, Ruby, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari "Catene" 18k White Gold and Diamond Bracelet Bvlgari Wristwatch
By Bulgari
Located in Miami, FL
Original Bulgari Swiss-made CATENE watch with 18k white gold gourmette (link) strap. An extravagant
Category

Early 2000s Swiss Wrist Watches

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold, White Gold

Bulgari Ladies Wrist Watch Automatic with Diamonds and MOP Dial, Ref. BBL33S
By Bulgari
Located in Berlin, DE
Bvlgari Ladies Wrist Watch Automatic with Diamonds and MOP Dial. Ref. BBL33S Bulgari remaining
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Stainless Steel

Bvlgari Briolette Sapphire and Ruby Necklace
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bulgari Briolette Sapphire and Ruby Necklace A necklace features two rows of ruby beads
Category

Early 2000s Italian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bvlgari Pearl, Ruby, and Diamond Necklace
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bvlgari Ruby, and Diamond Necklace, 1993 Description: A magnificent creation by BVLGARI, this
Category

1990s Italian Retro Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold

Bvlgari Doppio Ruby & Peridot Ear Clips
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bvlgari "Doppio" ruby and peridot ear clips Cabochon rubies and cabochon peridot, 18 karat yellow
Category

Late 20th Century Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Peridot, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas Tricolor 18k Gold Ruby Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
The Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas Gold Ruby Ring is crafted in 18k gold, features alternating sections
Category

Vintage 1980s Band Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Vintage 1980s Bvlgari Cabochon Sapphire and Ruby Necklace with Diamonds
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
carats and Cabochon Rubies weighing approximately a total of 20.00 carats. The necklace features Round
Category

Vintage 1980s Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

BVLGARI ITALY 18K YG, Cabochon Ruby, Diamond & Ancient Roman Monete Coin Brooch
By Bulgari
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Bvlgari Italy 18K Yellow Gold, Cabochon Ruby & Diamond Ancient Roman Coin Monete Brooch Circa 1980s
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby

BVLGARI ITALY 18k Yellow Gold, Pearl, Diamond, Ruby & Sapphire Cocktail Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Bvlgari Italy 18k Yellow, Pearl, Diamond, Ruby & Sapphire Cocktail Ring 1980s Vintage Here is
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire

Bvlgari 18kt. gold three - stone Burma Cabochon ruby and diamond ring
By Bulgari
Located in Braintree, GB
Bvlgari 18kt. yellow gold three stone ring, set with oval 1.29 cts. of Natural Burma cabochon ruby
Category

Vintage 1940s Italian Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

BVLGARI Italy 20k Yellow Gold, Diamond, Ruby & Emerald Cocktail Ring 1970s Rare
By Bulgari
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Bvlgari Italy 20k Yellow Gold, Diamond, Ruby & Emerald Cocktail Ring 1970s Vintage Here is your
Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Bvlgari Trombino 18kt Yellow Gold Ring 2.09ct Ruby & Diamonds With GRS Cert
By Bulgari
Located in Antwerp, BE
Bvlgari Trombino 18kt Yellow Gold Ring With 2.09ct Ruby and 1.12ct Diamonds from Estate Sultan
Category

20th Century Italian Artisan Signet Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Bvlgari Milano 1950 Bracelet in 18kt Gold with 5.42ctw in Rubies and Diamonds
By Bulgari
Located in Miami, FL
brilliant cut diamonds, 2.80 carats, white colorless F/G color, VS-SI clarity. Rubies: Mount in a four
Category

Vintage 1950s Italian Modernist Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bvlgari France Doppio Ring in 18kt Gold with 2.74 Ctw in Diamonds Emerald & Ruby
By Bulgari
Located in Miami, FL
carats. Ruby: Mount in a bezel setting, with 1 oval cabochon cuts (6.8 x 5 x 3.2 mm) of a Burmese vivid
Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Modernist Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

Bvlgari vintage emerald cut diamonds & baguettes rubies ring in yellow gold.
By Bulgari
Located in Surfside, FL
Vintage Bvlgari ruby & diamond ring in 18k yellow gold. 5 emerald cut diamonds (approx. 0.50 carat
Category

20th Century Fashion Rings

Materials

Yellow Gold

Bvlgari Emerald Earrings
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Bulgari Emerald Earrings Yellow gold earrings by Bvlgari set with pear-shaped emeralds, baguette
Category

20th Century Italian Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Vintage Bvlgari 18 Karat Yellow Gold Mini Purse
By Bulgari
Located in London, GB
the push piece clasp is set with a bezel set cabochon ruby to its centre. The piece is finished with
Category

Vintage 1950s Italian Retro Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

BULGARI Cabochon Ruby Diamond Gold Earrings
By Bulgari
Located in Southampton, NY
Each of these Bulgari clip earrings from the Eighties features a rich, gold-encircled cabochon cut
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold

Bulgari Gold Ruby Ancient Coin Necklace
By Bulgari
Located in Lambertville, NJ
18k gold necklace by Bulgari featuring a bezel set ancient coin and ruby cabochon accents. Necklace
Category

20th Century European Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold

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Bulgari Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

You are likely to find exactly the bulgari ruby you’re looking for on 1stDibs, as there is a broad range for sale. Frequently made of gold, 18k gold and yellow gold, this item was constructed with great care. Our collection of these items for sale includes 509 vintage editions and 69 modern creations to choose from as well. Making the right choice when shopping for a bulgari ruby may mean carefully reviewing examples of this item dating from different eras — you can find an early iteration of this piece from the 18th Century and a newer version made as recently as the 21st Century, both of which have proven very popular over the years. There have been many well-made iterations of the classic bulgari ruby over the years, but those made by Bulgari, K-OVER and Marina B are often thought to be among the most beautiful. A bulgari ruby of any era or style can lend versatility to your look, but a version featuring ruby, from our inventory of 340, is particularly popular. Today, if you’re looking for a cabochon version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes round cut and mixed cut alternatives. If you’re browsing our inventory for a bulgari ruby, you’ll find that many are available today for women, but there are still pieces to choose from for unisex and men.

How Much is a Bulgari Ruby?

The price for a bulgari ruby starts at $11 and tops out at $700,000 with these rings, on average, selling for $13,033.

Bulgari for sale on 1stDibs

Greek silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris arrived in Rome in 1881 and set up his own shop there in 1884, calling it Bulgari, an Italianization of his last name (in the brand's logo, it's styled BVLGARI, using the classical Latin alphabet in a nod to ancient Roman culture). In 1905, he opened the company’s flagship boutique on Rome’s Via dei Condotti. Since then, Bulgari has looked to Rome as a source of reference for its fanciful and decidedly romantic designs for necklaces, bracelets, earrings and other accessories.

Although the iconic jewelry house found success with its silverwork and Art Deco designs, popular through the 1920s, Bulgari’s signature style — bold, often using yellow gold embellished with big colorful gemstones — began to emerge when Sotirios’s sons inherited the business, in 1932.

The brand truly hit its stride in the dolce vita era of the 1950s and ’60s, when the founder’s grandsons Paolo, Gianni and Nicola Bulgari decisively departed from demure traditional styles to develop the house’s exuberant multi-gem looks, attracting celebrity collectors like Elizabeth Taylor.

In the 1940s, Bulgari debuted perhaps its most famous design, the Serpenti bracelet watch. The piece’s snakelike coils were made possible by the tubogas jewelry technique, which links a flexible series of thin horizontal bands. Both the sleek, modern tubogas construction and the sinuous snake motif continue to be synonymous with the Bulgari brand

On 1stDibs, the collection of vintage Bulgari jewelry includes rings, pendant necklaces, watches and other accessories.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.