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Rolex Blue Wave Dial

Rare Rolex 9k Gold Travel Clock c. 1940s
By Rolex
Located in New York, NY
enamel dial features bold black Arabic numerals and elegant blued steel hands, offering a timeless
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Rolex for sale on 1stDibs

While the rise in popularity of vintage Rolex watches is of no surprise to aficionados, collectors and industry experts, when it comes to contemporary luxury wristwatches, Rolex is also often the first brand that springs to mind. Not only is the company revered for its precision timekeeping and impeccable craftsmanship, but its name was designed to be memorable.

Rolex's enviable worldwide recognition can be credited in part to the genius of company founder Hans Wilsdorf. When the German-born watch dealer and his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, set up their London enterprise, in 1905, they called it Wilsdorf & Davis, according to the traditional formula.

But Wilsdorf was determined to come up with another name that was short, would look good on a watch dial and was easy to say and remember in several languages. In 1908, he trademarked the name Rolex, and by 1920, he had moved the company to Geneva and redubbed it as Montres Rolex S.A.

But the main reasons for the brand’s success are its aforementioned commitment to precision and unflagging pursuit of innovation. In 1926, the company introduced the aptly named Oyster model. With a screw-down crown and case back, both fitted with rubber gaskets, this was the first truly waterproof watch.

Five years later, Rolex upped the ante with the Oyster Perpetual. That model’s patented Perpetual movement contained a rotor mechanism enabling it to self-wind. In another trendsetting move, in 1945, the brand debuted the Datejust, with a date window prominently displayed on the dial.

The company’s two most iconic models are sports watches. Although the Submariner, which debuted in 1953, was developed as a dive watch, its waterproof case, solid construction and good looks made it a favorite of adventurers and urbanites alike, including James Bond, who wore it in classics like Dr. No and Goldfinger. The Daytona, the racing chronograph made famous by Paul Newman, is especially sought after by collectors. Newman’s personal Daytona, which hit the auction block in 2017, sold for $17.8 million.

Find vintage Rolex watches, bracelets and more on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right wrist-watches for You

Antique, new and vintage wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.

Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.

Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.

In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.

Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.

Find antique, new and vintage wristwatches on 1stDibs.

Questions About Rolex
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    A new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date watch is worth around $6,000. However, if it's encrusted with gems or vintage, it can cost as much as $50,000. 1stDibs has a great and vast selection of Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date watches.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The easiest way to adjust the time on the Rolex Oyster watch is by turning the crown. Turn it clockwise when you want increased hours or counter-clockwise for lower values, then push in until it clicks into place. On 1stDibs, you'll find a large collection of Rolex watches.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022
    To adjust a Rolex's time, first unscrew the crown. Slide the crown to the second notch and wait for the second hand to stop moving before setting. The specific method varies from model to model. A user guide accompanies each Rolex watch sold and describes the correct time-setting process for that model in great detail. Find a large collection of Rolex watches on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    The new Submariner Rolex with a Black Bezel is worth around $8,100 with some of the more expensive new Submariners in yellow gold costing around $36,950.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Rolex recommends getting service on your watch every 7 to 10 years by an authorized Rolex watchmaker. Many Rolex watches will run far longer if you service them as recommended to prevent problems and help minimize wear. Find authentic vintage and modern timepieces from Rolex on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Ideally, to prevent damage to your watch, it’s best to visit a Rolex dealer to have your battery changed. If you need to change it yourself, loosen the screws, and carefully remove the old battery with a set of tweezers, install the new one, and tighten the screws. You'll find authentic vintage Rolex watches from top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022
    Yes, Tudor watches are made by Rolex. In fact, you often see the brand name referred to as "Tudor by Rolex." Hans Wilsdorf introduced the brand in 1946 to sell wristwatches at lower price points than Rolex timepieces. The brand relaunched in 2009 and has grown in popularity since. You’ll find a large selection of both Tudor and Rolex watches on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022
    To wind a Rolex watch, first fully unscrew the winding crown. Once it is in a raised position, carefully turn the crown clockwise. Most watches require 25 turns for enough winding to begin powering the watch. The instructions included with Rolex watches provide more information about how to wind specific models. Shop a large collection of Rolex watches on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    To wind a Rolex Oyster, set the crown notch (located on the right hand side of the face) to position one. To set it to position one, turn the crown counterclockwise to unscrew the crown and pop the crown out one notch. From this position, start to wind the Rolex by turning the crown clockwise. You should feel a bit of tension and hear a soft clicking sound. Browse a selection of well-vetted Rolex Oyster watches on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    A Rolex Submariner bears an 18k stamp and the number “750,” which means that 75 percent of the watch is made out of pure gold model. The most luxurious of all timepieces, the Rolex Submariner has been continuously manufactured since 1951. Find vintage Rolex watches on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Each Rolex model may be slightly different, but most models feature a crown at the side that lets you adjust the time. Gently unscrew the crown by twisting it counter-clockwise. Gently pull it out and let it click through two extended positions until it reaches the third extended position. Twist it clockwise to adjust the time. When finished, press it back in and screw it in, in a clockwise direction to keep the watch waterproof. Browse through a range of authentic Rolex watches from top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    A Rolex watch that is worn daily does not need winding. The Perpetual rotor uses the movement of your body to power the watch and it can hold this power for up to 70 hours. If you take off your watch for an extended period of time, more than the 70 hours, then it will need winding. Manual winding can be done by unscrewing the crown to the winding position and turning it clockwise about 20 times. Remember to screw the crown back tightly to reestablish its waterproof qualities. Shop a collection of authentic Rolex watches from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes, a Rolex watch will hold its value and some of them even appreciate over time. This high-end brand has a grand reputation for superior quality, making it one of the more desirable watches available. Shop a collection of properly vetted vintage and contemporary Rolex watches from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Rolex uses only the highest quality melee diamonds with between D and G in color and IF in clarity. Every diamond is tested individually to make sure it is real.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes, there are companies that allow you to rent Rolex watches. Some companies offer subscription services and allow you to choose to buy the watch at a certain point if desired. Shop a selection of vintage and contemporary Rolex watches on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes, a Rolex can be traced using its unique serial number that is engraved into the watch. Noting down your watch’s serial number somewhere safe can help to identify it if it’s ever lost. Browse a collection of professionally vetted Rolex timepieces on 1stDibs from top sellers.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Almost all Rolex watches say “Swiss-Made” or “Swiss” on the watch face. Sometimes there is also the letter “T” included in this mark. Rolex is a Swiss brand and stands on the proud tradition of excellent Swiss timepiece construction. Shop a collection of authentic Rolex watches from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes, a Rolex Air-King watch is waterproof. All Rolex watches are waterproof to depths of at least 330 feet except for Cellini styles, which are waterproof to a depth of at least 164 feet. Shop a wide range of verified authentic Air-King, Cellini and more Rolex styles on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Depending on what kind of watch you're looking for, one may be better than the other. For instance, if you want a highly functional sport watch, some of Rolex's models may be better for you. That said, the brands' watches are very similar quality-wise. The main difference is their appearances: While Rolex designs more traditional timepieces, Panerai is more contemporary and bold.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    A Rolex watch’s second hand moves mechanically with precision, appearing to sweep the face smoothly without pause or interruption. It takes a very keen eye to spot the eight, slight tick-tock adjustments it makes each second. Shop a collection of authentic Rolex watches from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.