Rolex Datejust

Shopping for a Rolex Datejust?

Browsing vintage Rolex watches is great fun for those who appreciate a watch’s history. Whether it’s a highly coveted “Paul Newman” Daytona or an 18-karat-gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust like the one the brand’s founder Hans Wilsdorf presented to British prime minister Winston Churchill in 1947, there’s no shortage of famous examples to explore.

The Datejust, introduced in 1945, was the first self-winding wristwatch to automatically track the date on its dial. Both modest and instantly recognizable, it combines timeless design with technological ingenuity.

Rolex created the Cyclops lens, a 2.5x magnifier developed to make date windows easier to read, in the early 1950s. It was first added to the Datejust in 1953 and is now a defining feature of the model. That’s good news for more than one reason — the date feature is important when it comes to knowing how to spot a fake Rolex. (A Rolex’s date should change sharply at midnight. If the date changes slowly or more than 15 minutes late, however, the timepiece may be a fake.)

A watch’s band will play a role in finding the best Rolex for you. The Jubilee bracelet first appeared on the Datejust. Created to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, in 1945, the Jubilee has a more intricate five-link design and is considered one of the brand’s dressier bracelets. Its use on the “Batman” GMT-Master II marked a revolution of sorts for the Jubilee, breaking its historic ties to the Datejust.

Case size will factor into your choice of Rolex, too. Personal preference is the most important consideration in choosing a larger timepiece or a smaller one. Although some women are drawn to the size and heft of men’s watches, many prefer the Rolex Lady-Datejust’s 26mm or 28mm case, scaled to more comfortably fit smaller wrists, and appreciate having a prestige timepiece designed with them in mind.

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While the rise in popularity of vintage Rolex watches is of no surprise to aficionados, collectors and industry experts, when it comes to contemporary luxury wristwatches, Rolex is also often the first brand that springs to mind. Not only is the company revered for its precision timekeeping and impeccable craftsmanship, but its name was designed to be memorable.

Rolex's enviable worldwide recognition can be credited in part to the genius of company founder Hans Wilsdorf. When the German-born watch dealer and his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, set up their London enterprise, in 1905, they called it Wilsdorf & Davis, according to the traditional formula.

But Wilsdorf was determined to come up with another name that was short, would look good on a watch dial and was easy to say and remember in several languages. In 1908, he trademarked the name Rolex, and by 1920, he had moved the company to Geneva and redubbed it as Montres Rolex S.A.

But the main reasons for the brand’s success are its aforementioned commitment to precision and unflagging pursuit of innovation. In 1926, the company introduced the aptly named Oyster model. With a screw-down crown and case back, both fitted with rubber gaskets, this was the first truly waterproof watch.

Five years later, Rolex upped the ante with the Oyster Perpetual. That model’s patented Perpetual movement contained a rotor mechanism enabling it to self-wind. In another trendsetting move, in 1945, the brand debuted the Datejust, with a date window prominently displayed on the dial.

The company’s two most iconic models are sports watches. Although the Submariner, which debuted in 1953, was developed as a dive watch, its waterproof case, solid construction and good looks made it a favorite of adventurers and urbanites alike, including James Bond, who wore it in classics like Dr. No and Goldfinger. The Daytona, the racing chronograph made famous by Paul Newman, is especially sought after by collectors. Newman’s personal Daytona, which hit the auction block in 2017, sold for $17.8 million.

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Antique, vintage and luxury wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.

Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.

Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.

In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.

Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.

Find antique, vintage and luxury wristwatches for sale on 1stDibs.