Presentworth Suits, Outfits and Ensembles

As the key element of runway finale Looks 57 and 60 for the Comme Des Garcons Spring/Summer 1999 collection (see our photos of the Vogue coverage), this layered overdyed-purple navy ...

Over 20 years ago, the late Roberto Cavalli who recently died in 2024 designed this silk-and-cotton top-and-jeans set showcasing his signature mix of animal prints with luxurious emb...

Featuring a dramatic never-worn zipper skirt from the iconic Spring/Summer 1986 Alaia Paris collection--which dominated the Vanity Fair published preview of Foundation Azzedine Alaia...

Evoking late-1980s couture with complex construction showcasing a wide variety of sewing techniques and French lace, this like-new "Christian Lacroix Paris Made In France" fuchsia-la...

This Alaia Paris black set of a very soft 100% leather high-waisted derriere-enhancing pencil mini skirt and rare logo scoop-neck T-shirt were made around the early 1990s by the foun...

Italian Miuccia Prada debuted for her Fall/Winter 2000 womenswear collection this Vogue-photographed fashion-show runway "Look 1" three-piece ensemble, which includes a 1940s-inspired thick check-texture wool skirt suit with defined hour-glass waist, padded shoulders and plush fur accessory. While Prada became known in the 1990s for some of the best accessories, this detachable multi-color red-fox collar with thin beige grosgrain ties and silk-lined reverse was featured in its ad campaigns and magazine spreads as the versatile must-have of the season at the turn of the century. With 100% virgin wool, sharp shoulders, flap pockets, and full lining, the warm jacket...

For the Spring/Summer 1991 made-in-Italy collection of her eponymous London-based brand, Katharine Hamnett debuted this fitted elongated jacket skirt-suit as "Look 1" in her fashion show (see our photo of the video coverage). Her working-woman styled model was unexpectedly accompanied by a male model adorned in a cowboy hat, which suggests her power over a strong man. In a different color without metallic accents, this sleek three-button single-breasted lined jacket is paired with a matching seafoam-green tucked skirt with back slit. Immediately apparent based on the seven piped princess seams around the torso, the jacket is expertly tailored like Savile-Row menswear. It also has a speckled-grey felted collar, piped front pockets, and triple-buttonhole split sleeves. The skirt closes in back with a center zip with hook-and-eye fastening. The durable cotton-blend fabric, which is in excellent condition, is notable for its slight iridescence with a soft luster that links it to the reflective elements that dominated that colorful collection by Hamnett. We included photos of the suit lit by sunlight with yellow tones and in lighting with...

As French couture made by Martin Grant at his Paris atelier in the Marais in the mid-1990s, this pale grey plaid lightweight-wool slit-skirt suit has many hand-tailored elements that...

For his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche for Spring/Summer 2001, American Tom Ford debuted on the Paris runway this tuxedo-style black virgin-wool evening skirt-su...

Vivienne Westwood's son Joe Corre opened the first lingerie boutique for his sexy London-based brand Agent Provocateur in Soho in the mid-1990s, when the sole owner of this black lac...

In his classic long flared silhouette, Japanese Yohji Yamamoto skillfully designed with bias-cut draping both this navy ribbon-trimmed notched-lapel single-breasted lined jacket and ...

Like a turtleneck ensemble acquired by TheMet Costume Institute, Ann Demeulemeester designed this bold-silhouette contrasting-texture wool set of chocolate ribbed high-neck cropped tight knit sweater and black bias-cut crepe mini skirt for her Fall/Winter 1996-1997 collection, when the latter low-waisted garment without a waistband was worn on the Paris runway over trousers. The soft thick darted pullover jumper characteristically has the designer's hallmark of oversized exaggerated cuffs, which can be left unfolded for a more feminine look. The Belgian designer meticulously tailored the brushed-wool skirt so that its three seams are in the back, where there are also darts to flatter the bias drape, two belt loops, and invisible zip closure at the center. Aside from featuring knitted turtlenecks in almost every ensemble that debuted on the runway that season, this collection was significant because Demeulemeester--who was known for her black-and-white palette of monochromatic pieces until she retired from her independent label in 2013--added colors and textures including this sweater. However, red was the only color featured on the runway. For an alternative pairing idea, we included a photo of a similar brown ribbed darted high-neck sweater, which was worn in Demeulemeester's runway show for Fall/Winter 2000, but with a shiny billowy slit maxi skirt...

The Italian duo Dolce & Gabbana for their Fall/Winter 1995 runway show featured black lace ensembles that included this trio of merino-wool knit turtleneck with asymmetrical vertical...

In Comme des Garcons founder Rei Kawakubo's iconic Spring/Summer 1997 collection titled Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body, which was nicknamed "lumps and bumps", this navy two-piece set of transparent pullover long-sleeve net tulle blouse and convertible translucent bias-cut draping long skirt or tube dress debuted on the runway in "Look 11" among the Vogue coverage (partly concealed under a navy open robe). Significantly, our pair repeats the fashion show's "Look 1" theme that was identified by TheMet museum curators as "clothing-absence/body-presence" with a see-through symmetrical top revealing breasts and a feminine bias-cut draped asymmetrical skirt. Variations of this silhouette were modeled in navy, or red like our primary photo. Many had net-encased organ-shaped down pillows freely inserted into net underlays by the designer to shockingly distort the silhouettes, such as with two kidney-shapes on the back or a tube across the front of the hips. This set will likewise accommodate such padding that is apparent in the Vogue photos...

For the late British designer's Spring/Summer 1999 fashion show, this Vivienne Westwood runway-look three-piece ensemble of a black corset-sty...