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A French moiré silk day Crinoline dress Circa 1865
About the Item
Circa 1865
France Second Empire period
An afternoon dress with train and large projected crinoline, bodice and skirt in blue silk "à l'antique" moire dating from the most extravagant period of fashion under the Second Empire. Fitted bodice, crew neck, button front and long bent sleeves. Skirt with large ellyptic crinoline, finely fitted with flat pleats at the front and barrel pleats at the back for projected volume. The bust is adorned with a white cotton lace Berthe collar and applied with Greek-style zigzag silk soutaches in royal blue and white, highlighting the shoulders, cuffs and button placket. Two false pockets on the front of the skirt and a large bubble waistband on the back. There are a few minor flaws to note, such as the haloes at the end of the train and under the armpits, some reinforcement on the inside of the skirt and two stabilised micro-slits on the shoulders. Overall clean and stable silk. Good overall condition despite a few flaws.
Dimensions: Equivalent to size 36 France. Bodice: shoulders 37, sleeves 47 cm, bust 95 cm, waist 62 cm. Skirt: front height 105 cm, back height 150 cm, skirt bottom 480 cm.
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Day dress with princess, two-part bodice and skirt on a bustle cage. Sky-blue taffeta decorated with starched cream gauze called tarlatane, finely wrinkled and crenellated à la grecque. Boned bodice with long basque closing in front by matching curved buttons. Long skirt with train adorned with the same furbelows. Volume of the bouillonné skirt in pouf projected at the back that can be raised by a system of brass rings and cotton cords. Exhibit in "Falbalas, Portraits et Mode au féminin 1850 - 1930" (Falbalas, Portraits and Fashion Female 1850 - 1930) at the Museum of Art of the City of Toulon in 2017. There a brown stain under the pocket, really hard to notice. A yellowish spot on the skirt at the bottom right, only defect. Otherwise clean dress and very good structure of silk and cotton. Good condition of color and conservation.
Dimensions: Equivalent French Size 36 Front height 139 cm Back height 209 cm Shoulders 36 cm Collar 5 cm Sleeve 50 cm Chest 82 cm Waist 61 cm Hips 118 cm Circumference of the skirt 355 cm
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