Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 16

Couture Antique Tuxedo Wool Ribbed&QuiltedSatin FullyLined&Padded Black Tailcoat

About the Item

This antique ArtDeco-period bespoke British wool and satin black tuxedo button-decorated open-breasted tailcoat fits a women's U.S.-size 6 so well that we think it was custom-made for one. A hidden printed label identifies the couture craftsman as Harry Kay at Windsor Place, which remains one of the most sought after professional locations in the heart of Cardiff, the capital of Wales. Amusingly, it includes the very early phone number for his business of only four digits, which was the standardized local dial-up number during the 1920s in at least the United States. The tag's additional handwritten information identify his client in script as R. Robins or Robinson followed by an abbreviation of two letters possibly Sr, along with the illegible date from the early 1900s that may be the month of May given the minimal letters and possibly 1929 or 1933. Between those years, formal menswear for women was internationally popularized by movie actress Marlene Dietrich (see our photo of her in top hat and white-tie tux), jazz-associated entertainer Josephine Baker, and couture-fashion designer Coco Chanel. This coat has fine tailoring on the ribbed satin notched lapels, angled breast pocket, and button-accented draped tails and split sleeves. The tails each have an additional hidden pocket, which both function like the side pockets of pants. More so, there is a piped deep pocket on the interior of each ribbed satin breast. The entire back of the lined torso is intricately quilted to conceal the multiple curvilinear seams that contour the waist and shoulders along with pads, which also add a curve to the upper back. At the interior neck, a satin thick loop enables it to be temporarily hung on a hook. For someone who appreciates small signs of old age like minimal insect damage (see several holes in the area of the sleeves buttons), this tailcoat is suitable for either formal or casual wear--especially for outdoor use given its warmth with thick striped-satin lined sleeves. In comparison to some of the modern and contemporary designers best known for tuxedo jackets, such as Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford, we think this coat has superior construction to last another century if better protected from moths by the buyer. The wrinkles on the satin lining of the tails should disappear when steamed. We do not recommend dry cleaning while there currently is no stain or odor. This was acquired by its contemporary collector over 30 years ago from a former London antique-textile boutique.
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: 6 (US)
  • Style:
    Art Deco (Of the Period)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use. This antique tux tailcoat is in relatively good condition. The only hard-to-see damage is from moths, which is partly masked by the sleeve buttons, while a dark hole on the back left collar can be concealed if desired by long hair or a scarf.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244220660922
More From This SellerView All
  • CommeDesGarcons 2000 StuddedLeatherBelt Wrapped HalfDress PinstripeWool Topcoat
    By Rei Kawakubo Comme Des Garcons, Comme des Garçons
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Japanese Rei Kawakubo designed this wool-blend half-dress topcoat with embossed pinstripes for her Comme des Garcons Fall/Winter 2000 collection, which she titled "Hard And Forceful"...
    Category

    1990s Japanese Topcoats

  • 1930s JeanneLavinParis ArtDeco TulleSilk CoutureAdaptation Black Evening Jacket
    By Jeanne Lanvin
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In the 1930s when French couturier Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) was creating decorative bias-cut silk tulle overlays for her feminine full-skirted sleeveless "robes de style", she designed this black semi-transparent tulle formal jacket featuring diagonally-striped topstitched silk-crepe appliques throughout the bias-cut panels. This sheer geometric-patterned cape-like jacket has a skirt that drapes from an open waistline and a top-fastening bodice with gathered rounded 3/4-length sleeves that each have two arm seams and shirred embroidered cuffs. It could have been the first "swing coat" design that was given that name around 1935, when Lanvin was the "uncontested leader in the haute-couture field" according to the French Palais Galliera that has collected and exhibited similar garments at its fashion museum in Paris. TheMet collected a House of Lanvin black evening coat with a similar shape that also features dramatic linear appliques, but in a white starburst, which it dates to Spring/Summer 1927. The unprecedented modern look of this Art-Deco women's jacket, which was inspired by 18th-Century French and Spanish topcoats for aristocratic court dresses, may have been good cause for Maison Lanvin to custom-make some close reproductions of a one-of-a-kind couture original for additional clients in Paris, which is implied by the remaining French brand-label noting "Adaptation Jean Lanvin...
    Category

    1930s French Swing Coats

  • JunyaWantanabe 1996 Convertible Draped RedRoseJacquard & NavyCotton Skirt Cape
    By Rei Kawakubo Comme Des Garcons, Junya Watanabe
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In 1996, Japanese Junya Wantanabe made this sculptural red whorled-rose jacquard evening coat-jacket cape to convert to an equally stunning asymm...
    Category

    1990s Japanese Cocoon Coats

  • CommeDesGarcons 1999 RunwayLook12 BiasCut TranslucentSatin SalmonPink MaxiDress
    By Rei Kawakubo Comme Des Garcons, Comme des Garçons
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In an atypical Japanese-dye color for Rei Kawakubo, in 1999 she designed this translucent salmon-pink bias-cut satin sleeveless maxi dress evening gown for her brand Comme des Garcons, which debuted on a model walking the Paris runway that Fall as "Look 12" among the Vogue photo-coverage of her Spring/Summer 2000 collection. The unusual V-neck shape creates a central drape in the front of the unlined dress that prevents the synthetic semi-transparent fabric from clinging to the torso, while still enabling the lower part to swoosh while walking. With the exception of the brand tag, all others were removed by the sole owner to eliminate bulk and visibility through the dress. If the buyer would prefer, the fabric can be made shinier and completely smooth with professional pressing. Please notice that In a couple of our photos the white drapery next to or below the dress was converted by 1stDibs auto-editing to appear like trailing elements. Also, as we used a backless mannequin, the rear side of the dress at the top is draping inward--not outward--in our photo. We have other items from this same Spring/Summer 2000 collection if the buyer may want to layer pieces for a look similar to the fashion show. This is such a beautiful minimal dress...
    Category

    Early 2000s Japanese Evening Gowns

  • StellaMcCartney RunwayFinale2002 LingerieLike Transparent PlungingV Silk Blouse
    By Stella McCartney
    Located in Chicago, IL
    For her Fall/Winter 2002 runway finale as the "jeans bride", Stella McCartney debuted this unique ethereal style of lingerie-like transparent silk georgette blouse as "Look 36" (see ...
    Category

    Early 2000s British Blouses

  • StellaMcCartney 2003 SilkSatin Print OffShoulder Disco MiniDress or BomberJacket
    By Stella McCartney
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Arguable the most significant design in the Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2003 collection since it debuted in several colors on the runway and was worn by the British designer to take her fashion-show bow, this pink-printed dark-grey silk-blend zip-front mini-dress with white satin stripes and pink piping was a favorite of the Vogue critic and her father Beatles co-founder Paul McCarthy. Vogue wrote: "Her hippest new idea came in the form of puffy satin bombers--she transformed one, a fusion of sport and chinoiserie print, into an off-the-shoulder bubble dress. McCartney is so into the glam-bomber idea, in fact, that she bounded onto the runway wearing a black version herself." The garment's voluminous batwing sleeves and stretch-cotton ribbed neckline and hem, plus custom golden-charm two-way zipper, enable it to have two different necklines and lengths to convert to a shorter puffier bomber jacket. Notably, the versatile piece that is subtly printed with mock-Beatles lyrics seems to have been the first tribute fashion-design that McCartney created to reference her father. Prior, she had credited her stylish mother Linda for instilling her with a love of fashion and inspiration for her initial namesake collections, which followed her first commercial collections with Phoebe Philo for Chloe. For background, when McCartney was a young girl in 1978, the mock-rock band The Rutles parodied a Beatles song, which was recorded by EMI as "Ging, Gang, Goolie". Given its lyrics, the chinoiserie-style dragon motifs were substituted by McCartney with bird skeletons...
    Category

    Early 2000s British Mini Dress

You May Also Like
  • Vintage Rare Pierre Cardin Boutique Navy Blue Trench Coat
    By Pierre Cardin
    Located in Fort Lauderdale, FL
    Beautiful vintage circa 1980 Pierre Cardin Boutique classic trench coat. Made in France. Navy blue corduroy features the traditional storm flap ...
    Category

    1980s French Trench Coats

  • SAINT LAURENT By HEDI SLIMANE F/W 2015 Runway Coat
    By Hedi Slimane for Yves Saint Laurent, Saint Laurent
    Located in Berlin, BE
    SAINT LAURENT by HEDI SLIMANE Rare F/W 2015 Runway Coat With Mink Collar Brand: Saint Laurent Designer: Hedi Slimane Collection / Year: F/W 2015 Fabric: Wool / Mink Color: Black Siz...
    Category

    2010s French Coats

  • Vintage GUY LAROCHE 80s Ski Hooded PARKA Gray Red Jacket Down Feather Coat XL
    By Guy Laroche
    Located in Asheville, NC
    Guy Laroche, 80's Designer Vintage, Paris/New York, Made in Taiwan, Polyester/Cotton Shell, Down, Feathers and Polyester Filler, Dual Metal Zipper, Button and Drawstring Tie Closures...
    Category

    1980s Taiwanese Anoraks and Parkas

  • Vintage 1960's Black Beaded and Rhinestone Floral Evening Cape
    Located in Cheltenham, GB
    This divine 1960's black shoulder cape, decorated with black sequins and beads, and accented by large claw set iridescent rhinestones, in a trailing floral pattern, is just the perfe...
    Category

    1960s European Capes

  • Vintage 1960's Yves Saint Laurent Wool Coat UK 8 US 4
    By Yves Saint Laurent
    Located in Cheltenham, GB
    A rare and unique piece to behold, this original vintage 1960's Yves Saint Laurent Coat, Rendered in a cream wool and lined in silk, is just the piece to add to your couture collecti...
    Category

    1960s Coats

  • Vintage 1960's Christian Dior Wool Coat UK 14-18 US 10-14
    By Christian Dior
    Located in Cheltenham, GB
    This rare 1960's Christian Dior mid-season red wool coat, is a rare piece to behold and the perfect statement piece for your transitional wardrobe. The V shaped neckline of the coa...
    Category

    1960s Coats

Recently Viewed

View All