A Damask silk Sack-back mantle gown - Europe Circa 1740

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About the Item

Circa 1740 France or Europe A Sack back mantle gown in celadon green damask, treated here in à la retroussé style, the bottom of the dress having been cut off. This type of damask with a satin ground and a large cream Indian flower design is rare. Its width is 70cm, which indicates that it is not French, as the loom widths were 50cm. This damask either came from China via the East India Companies (hence the name of Damas des Indes), or from Holland, which wove large widths like the products imported by the VOC (Dutch East India Company). The cut is original and quite early in the 18th century. The two large hollow pleats in the back ‘à la Watteau’ and the two pleats in the front are reminiscent of the cut of the French Regence period Robes volantes. The three-quarter length sleeves have double engagement flounces, underlined by period passementerie crests and echoing the wavy flow of the falbalas at the front. The bodice lining is an original ecru linen (with a few small holes) with a possible modification to the stomach piece which pins in the front. This dress remains a very interesting historical piece with possible 18th century modifications. Unfortunately, the bottom of the coat was cut and sewn on a sewing machine in the 20th century by an unscrupulous seamstress! It is in good condition, with a few rust spots on the skirt. The silk is stable, very resistant and not discoloured. The quilted skirt does not belong to this sale. Size: large for the period, equivalent to a women's size 38 in France. Height 113 cm, shoulders 37 cm, chest 90 cm. I have chosen to present this rare but hybrid piece in the manner of Jean Siméon Chardin (famous French painter 1699-1779), that is to say in the style of a long casaquin, when the dresses of the rich elegant ladies of the 18th century were ‘downgraded’ in the social scale (see the last two photos). It's important to remember that the Robes à la française could also be à transformation, as in the 19th century. In other words, in the 18th century, you could sometimes find a matching skirt, coat, casaquin and caraco, allowing an elegant woman's day to be punctuated, as it were, from the pomp of the day to the casualness of the home (Domo in Latin).

Dimensions:
Marked Size: women's size 38 in France (EU)
Style:
1740 (Of the Period)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1740-1749
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Good Condition and Color.
Seller Location:
Toulon, FR
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU633324717932

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