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McCartney 2003 Prototype LingerieLike Lace SilkChiffon Satin Black HaremPants

About the Item

As lingerie-like runway Look 23 for her Spring/Summer 2003 collection from which we acquired this unreproduced hand-finished one-off prototype, British Stella McCartney debuted these jaw-dropping highly-textural ribbon-striped black harem pants, which feature transparent silk chiffon liberally trimmed by boldly topstitched reflective silk satin ribbons and a wide dropped waistband defined by eyelash-edged scalloped floral layered lace. The see-through chiffon is further decorated in a stripe pattern with tiny eyelets. The adjustable voluminous wide-leg pants, which look like a maxi skirt untied, have spaghetti cords that are meant to be crisscrossed above the ankle to arrange the drape on the legs. This dramatic garment will look stunning under a simple sheer mini dress or tunic, if not worn over a swim-wear-like body suit as on the runway. Since McCartney launched her eponymous fashion house in 2001, she gained particular acclaim for her trousers--likely owing to her early training with a London Savile-Row tailor. The creative design and tuxedo-stripe style of these pants--as a luxurious take on comfortable silk pajama bottoms--is an early example. Notably, when McCartney was a teenager she began working with high-end lace when she interned with Christian Lacroix to help produce one of his haute-couture collections. The lace waistband on these pants is attached to the top of black semi-sheer stretch boy-shorts, which secure it on the hips while the multiple layers conceal the skin. The shorts (shown inverted in closeup), which will fit a US-size 4 to slim 8, do not have banding at the legs or waist as these areas stretch to fit like shape-wear. The lace waistband fastens on one side with multiple concealed snaps. All labels were removed by the sole owner with the exception of the brand and "Made In Italy" tags. These early pants by McCartney should not be confused with a 2008-launched ready-to-wear lingerie line that she produced.
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Essentially, valuable art/fashion can be made from everyday vintage objects. While Duchamp did so in 1917 with a men's porcelain urinal titled "Fountain" attached to a gallery exhibition wall, they both made the point that it is the way that such items are reassembled that can make the result a progressive statement. What makes the print so special and worthy of framing for display is that, without words, the three numbered images on a single white card encapsulate the before-its-time fashion manifesto of Martin Margiela to recycle fashion in remarkable new wearable ways, such as harnessed by his unique lingerie. According to The New York Times in its 2021 feature-story that reflected on his radical fashion design and delved into his crossover art, Margiela "changed how we dressed in the 1990s", while his art embodies "the visionary man he has always been." 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