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AnnDemeulemeester 1996 Wool Set RibbedHighNeckKnit & BiasCut LowWaistMiniSkirt

Name: AnnDemeulemeester 1996 Wool Set RibbedHighNeckKnit & BiasCut LowWaistMiniSkirt
Brand: Ann Demeulemeester
Price: 2839.55 AUD
Availability: InStock
Rating: 5 (1 reviews)

About the Item

Like a turtleneck ensemble acquired by TheMet Costume Institute, Ann Demeulemeester designed this bold-silhouette contrasting-texture wool set of chocolate ribbed high-neck cropped tight knit sweater and black bias-cut crepe mini skirt for her Fall/Winter 1996-1997 collection, when the latter low-waisted garment without a waistband was worn on the Paris runway over trousers. The soft thick darted pullover jumper characteristically has the designer's hallmark of oversized exaggerated cuffs, which can be left unfolded for a more feminine look. The Belgian designer meticulously tailored the brushed-wool skirt so that its three seams are in the back, where there are also darts to flatter the bias drape, two belt loops, and invisible zip closure at the center. Aside from featuring knitted turtlenecks in almost every ensemble that debuted on the runway that season, this collection was significant because Demeulemeester--who was known for her black-and-white palette of monochromatic pieces until she retired from her independent label in 2013--added colors and textures including this sweater. However, red was the only color featured on the runway. For an alternative pairing idea, we included a photo of a similar brown ribbed darted high-neck sweater, which was worn in Demeulemeester's runway show for Fall/Winter 2000, but with a shiny billowy slit maxi skirt for a more formal look. Like this turtleneck, the designer famously reworked and restyled classics season after season for one of the most focused bodies of work in fashion. Similar pieces, with the exception of the low waist, are offered in the current Fall/Winter collection despite a different designer at the helm. The French-size 36 will best suit a US-size 2 or 4 depending on where the waist is desired and if the bust is not larger than our mannequin. Please note that our mannequin has no back/butt, so when worn the waist height will be higher, and the hip area of the skirt will be stretched flat while retaining the bias draping at the bottom. One of Demeulemeester's biggest fans is rock legend Patti Smith, who said in a published interview that her designs are the only fashion that she continuously desires. Conversely, Smith's music and menswear-style had long been a source of poetic inspiration for her clothing creations. Demeulemeester debuted her first menswear pieces with male and female models sharing the runway for this Fall/Winter 1996 collection. The set was purchased from the former Barney's New York by the sole owner. Notably, the ten acquisitions of Demeulemeester's designs by TheMet focus on the years between 1994-1999. Contributing to a turning point in 20th-Century fashion, she was among the Belgian avant-garde designers who were dubbed The Antwerp Six, who rose to international prominence from the late 1980s through the 1990s.

Designer:

Ann Demeulemeester

Brand:

Ann Demeulemeester

Dimensions:

Length: 20 in (50.8 cm)Marked Size: FR36 (EU)Waist: 28 in (71.12 cm)

Style:

1990s (Of the Period)

Place of Origin:

Belgium

Period:

1990-1999

Condition:

Wear consistent with age and use.

Seller Location:

Chicago, IL

Reference Number:

1stDibs: LU3244220350862

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