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Lanvin Castello Haute Couture Coral Silk Brocade Coat & Dress Ensemble 1950s

About the Item

Lanvin-Castello Haute Couture dress & coat ensemble in bright coral silk brocade from the 1950s. Lanvin is the oldest French fashion house founded by Jeanne Lanvin in Paris in 1889 upon finishing her apprenticeship in millinery. She created a fashion empire, passing away in 1946, her daughter became President of Lanvin after her mothers death. Antonio Castillo together with Pierre Balmain, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Christian Dior, were the new generation of Paris designers after WW2, in 1950 Castillo was invited by Lanvin's daughter to take over design at the house. From 1950 to 1962, during his tenure, the salon was known for elegant clothes, slender lines, long flowing skirts in rich fabrics, and elaborate embroideries. This beautiful dress & coat set is done in a glorious shade of coral silk brocade woven in a floral pattern, with short sleeves, a single self button at the neck and a narrow round collar, the swing style coat is very full. Worn with long gloves, it is statement making. The matching dress has a bateau neckline with inverted pleats at each shoulder strap front. The bodice front & back is fitted with darts at the waist. The waist is seamed and the skirt is lightly gathered at the waist falling semi full to the hem. The dress closes at the side with a painted metal zipper. There is an interior boned corset that closes with hook & eyes at the side. The dress is interlined with organza backed to the brocade, there is an additional mesh net for structure. An attached taffeta lining including corset. The dress has been let out at the waist side at a later time and a piece added in the corset side. There is a piece added to the back side waist band, the skirt gathering has been opened & let out a bit on one side. Some of the stitching on the waist band is loose or open. The bow for the waist front has been removed, but comes with the dress. The stiffening at the inside skirt back is pulled open. The coat, is full and has a swing/flair shape, it has a Peter Pan collar and closes at the neck front with a hidden self covered button & a snap, it is open below to the hem. There are above elbow sleeves, with a slightly dropped shoulder line. On seam hip front pockets. The lining is matching coral colour silk, the lining is padded and hand quilted in a diamond pattern. There is one dark mark near the left pocket side possibly a pen/pencil mark, not noticeable unless pointed out. There are two tiny dark slubs in the silk that are naturally occurring. There is a spot on the right side where your hand might land, it's light grayish. A bit of very light soiling at the inside collar back. We have not had this set dry cleaned. The fabric is in very good sturdy condition. Please request additional detail photos. In excellent wearable condition. All our clothing is inspected for condition and is ready to wear. Any condition issues will be noted. For visual comparison our mannequin is a size 4. Please check the measurements provided below and compare with your own measurements for the best possible fit! Please contact us if you have any questions about this item or need more photos. Measurements are in inches: Dress Bust 34 Waist 26 Hip 34 Shoulder top to waist back 16 Waist back to hem back 22 1/2 Coat Bust 52 Hip 60 Shoulder back approximately 18 Sleeve length approximately 10 Center neck to hem back 38 1/2

Designer:

Antonio del Castillo

Brand:

Lanvin Paris

Dimensions:

Marked Size: 4 (US)

Place of Origin:

France

Period:

1950-1959

Material Notes:

Haute Couture Silk brocade completely hand sewn quilted coat lining boned corset dress bodice hand set zipper hand finished seams inside & outside

Condition:

Altered (not by designer). The coat is original without adjustments. The dress has been let out at the waist on one side, a piece was added to the corset side. Possibly re-hemmed.

Seller Location:

West Palm Beach, FL

Reference Number:

Seller: mn/mca1stDibs: LU28420050872

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Shop All Lanvin Paris

Lanvin Paris

The career of Jeanne Lanvin (1867–1946) and her eponymous brand began with a millinery apprenticeship in the late 19th century. Today, Lanvin Paris is a globally revered company and is among the oldest French fashion houses still in existence. It is renowned for its exquisite and sought-after vintage evening dresses, shoes, skirts and other garments and accessories and for having dressed such high-profile celebrities as Meryl Streep, Natalie Portman, Kim Kardashian and Sienna Miller.

In 1889, when her apprenticeship came to an end, the young French designer Jeanne Lanvin opened a custom hat shop on the rue Boissy d’Anglas in Paris. Four years later, she moved her business into a much more prominent space on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, one of the world’s most famous luxury fashion districts. The new Maison Lanvin was big enough to display the pieces she would design for her daughter, Marguerite, who was born in 1897. The relationship between Lanvin and her daughter would be at the core of the brand, with a 1907 photograph of Jeanne and Marguerite in matching outfits inspiring the fashion house’s enduring logo.

In 1908, Lanvin launched a line of children’s clothing, one of the first such moves in high-end fashion. When mothers came in to buy the clothes, they often asked for similar designs for themselves. Lanvin decided to introduce a women’s wear line with pieces that had a youthful femininity. This would grow to encompass everyday clothing, evening dresses, coats, lingerie and furs, as well as menswear, perfume and household items. Once she became a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture (Parisian Fashion Council) in 1909, her title officially switched from milliner to designer.

Along with her stylish designs, Lanvin identified the importance of brand identity through fabric colors, opening a dye factory in Nanterre, France. There the distinctive “Lanvin blue” was produced, so even if her designs were copied, the colors could never be exactly reproduced.

After Jeanne Lanvin's death, her daughter, Marguerite Marie-Blanche de Polignac, took over and a series of talented artistic directors would propel the brand through the trends of the 20th century, including Jules François Crahay, Dominique Morlotti, Alber Elbaz and, most recently, Bruno Sialelli. In 2018, Lanvin was acquired by the Fosun Fashion Group, which is now focused on celebrating Lanvin’s heritage while pushing it into a new chapter.

Find vintage Lanvin Paris clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.