Antique Japanese Embroidered Silk Kesa Monk's Robe Edo Period

About the Item

A Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) made from thirteen columns of patchworks of fine shimmering silk fabric of a salmon orange color, the shade of which changed subtly from different angles of light, Fine and delicate embroidery work of two family-mons form repetitive patterns in rows and lines permeating the entire surface. The motifs various in detailed use of threads in contrasting colors to create a positive and negative mirror effect between them. Five silk square in contrasting white color with brown woven vines were sewn to the four corners and one on the longitude side of the Kesa, completing the symbolism of the robe. The four squares in the corners represent the Four Heavenly Kings (Shi Tenno); while the square in the middle section with a tie represent a compassionate bodhisattva (traditionally there are two squares, but on this kesa only one was used. The Kesa has no lining, exposed the intricate needle work on the back as shown. Kesa is derived from the Sanskrit word kasaya, meaning “dark colored,” a reference to the saffron colored robes worn by early Indian Buddhist monks. It is essentially a rectangular cloth originally sewn from patches of rags, being formless, it serves as a symbolism of the ascetic life of one's choosing. In Japan, since at least the Heian period (794–1185), the kesa has been worn by Buddhist priests as their outermost robe, draped over the left shoulder and attached under the right armpit. While it served some function of protection, it was more a signal of the wearer’s faith, and became increasingly elaborate over the centuries. During the Edo period (1600–1868), many kesa worn were patched together from exquisite silk brocade fabrics that were donated to the temples by members of the aristocracy, ruling military class, or wealthy merchants. By stitching the fabric into a patchwork robe, the monks concentrated their attention on the creation of a devotional work of art, every stitch part of an act of meditation on the teachings of the Buddha. The number of stripes (from 5 to up to 25) indicates the wearer’s rank and the occasion for which it was worn, the highest number of stripes usually only being worn by an abbot during festival ceremonies. The normal daily kesa generally have seven columns. The kesa on offer is more likely a ceremonial robe for special occasion.

Dimensions:

Height: 47 in (119.38 cm)Width: 82.25 in (208.92 cm)Depth: 0.1 in (2.54 mm)

Style:

Edo (Of the Period)

Materials and Techniques:

Brocade,Silk,Patchwork

Place of Origin:

Japan

Period:

19th Century

Date of Manufacture:

19th century

Condition:

Wear consistent with age and use. Good antique textile condition with fine work and shimmering colors. Some small losses and minor frays on the edges. Unlined. Unframed.

Seller Location:

Atlanta, GA

Reference Number:

1stDibs: LU945039168922

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