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Rolex Chronometer "Northern Goldsmiths" – 1939 Vintage 9K Gold Manual-Wind Watch
About the Item
A Rare Pre-WWII Rolex Chronometer with Co-Branded Dial and High-Precision 18-Jewel Movement
This is a highly collectible and historically significant 1939 Rolex Chronometer featuring a Northern Goldsmiths co-branded dial, housed in a 9-carat gold case with a manual-wind chronometer-grade movement. Notably, this watch is powered by a rare 18-jewel movement, a configuration that sets it apart from most Rolex timepieces of the era.
Key Features:
• Brand & Model: Rolex Chronometer (Northern Goldsmiths retailer edition)
• Year: Circa 1939, confirmed by the UK hallmark on the case
• Case Material: Solid 9K gold (hallmarked "0.375")
• Case Size: 30mm
• Dial:
◦ Original Northern Goldsmiths co-branded dial, a rare feature
◦ Arabic numerals with blue steel hands
◦ Sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock
◦ "Chronometer" designation, indicating high-precision certification
• Movement:
◦ Rolex manual-wind chronometer movement
◦ Timed in 6 positions for enhanced accuracy
◦ 18 rubies (jewels), an uncommon and premium configuration
◦ Rolex-engraved bridge and high-quality finishing
• Crown: Original manual-wind crown
• Crystal: Vintage acrylic crystal
• Strap: Leather strap
The Significance of the 18-Jewel Movement:
Most Rolex movements from the 1930s and early 1940s typically used 15 to 17 jewels, making this 18-jewel movement an unusual and high-grade variation. The additional jewel was likely implemented to enhance smooth operation, reduce friction, and increase long-term durability, particularly in critical pivot points. This suggests that this Rolex may have been part of a higher-precision series or intended for a premium market, reinforcing its collectibility and value among vintage watch enthusiasts.
Historical Significance & Collectibility:
This pre-WWII Rolex is a rare example of a co-branded retailer watch, sold through Northern Goldsmiths, a historic UK jeweler. During the late 1930s and early 1940s, Rolex partnered with high-end retailers for exclusive distribution, making this model an unusual and sought-after piece among collectors. The hallmark (letter "O") dates the case to 1939, aligning with Rolex’s transition into high-precision chronometer watches.
Condition:
• Dial: Original, unrestored, with patina consistent with age
• Case: Well-preserved 9K gold case with hallmarks intact
• Movement: In Perfect working condition, but a professional service is recommended for optimal performance
• Strap: Very good condition
Rarity & Value:
Co-branded Rolex watches, particularly from prestigious retailers like Northern Goldsmiths, are highly collectible and rarely surface in the market. The rare 18-jewel movement, combined with its chronometer certification and 1939 gold hallmarks, makes this an exceptional timepiece. This original example from 1939 retains its period-correct features, making it a valuable addition for serious collectors of vintage Rolex timepieces.
- Dimensions:Height: 0.4 in (1 cm)Diameter: 1.19 in (3 cm)
- Materials and Techniques:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1939
- Condition:Replacements made: Band has probably been replaced. Wear consistent with age and use. Minor fading. Excellent condition. More pictures and condition report upon request.
- Seller Location:Encino, CA
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU881343410522
About the Seller
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20th Century Specialists
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Shipping from: Pasadena, CA
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