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Rolex Chronometer "Northern Goldsmiths" – 1939 Vintage 9K Gold Manual-Wind Watch

About the Item

A Rare Pre-WWII Rolex Chronometer with Co-Branded Dial and High-Precision 18-Jewel Movement This is a highly collectible and historically significant 1939 Rolex Chronometer featuring a Northern Goldsmiths co-branded dial, housed in a 9-carat gold case with a manual-wind chronometer-grade movement. Notably, this watch is powered by a rare 18-jewel movement, a configuration that sets it apart from most Rolex timepieces of the era. Key Features: • Brand & Model: Rolex Chronometer (Northern Goldsmiths retailer edition) • Year: Circa 1939, confirmed by the UK hallmark on the case • Case Material: Solid 9K gold (hallmarked "0.375") • Case Size: 30mm • Dial: ◦ Original Northern Goldsmiths co-branded dial, a rare feature ◦ Arabic numerals with blue steel hands ◦ Sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock ◦ "Chronometer" designation, indicating high-precision certification • Movement: ◦ Rolex manual-wind chronometer movement ◦ Timed in 6 positions for enhanced accuracy ◦ 18 rubies (jewels), an uncommon and premium configuration ◦ Rolex-engraved bridge and high-quality finishing • Crown: Original manual-wind crown • Crystal: Vintage acrylic crystal • Strap: Leather strap The Significance of the 18-Jewel Movement: Most Rolex movements from the 1930s and early 1940s typically used 15 to 17 jewels, making this 18-jewel movement an unusual and high-grade variation. The additional jewel was likely implemented to enhance smooth operation, reduce friction, and increase long-term durability, particularly in critical pivot points. This suggests that this Rolex may have been part of a higher-precision series or intended for a premium market, reinforcing its collectibility and value among vintage watch enthusiasts. Historical Significance & Collectibility: This pre-WWII Rolex is a rare example of a co-branded retailer watch, sold through Northern Goldsmiths, a historic UK jeweler. During the late 1930s and early 1940s, Rolex partnered with high-end retailers for exclusive distribution, making this model an unusual and sought-after piece among collectors. The hallmark (letter "O") dates the case to 1939, aligning with Rolex’s transition into high-precision chronometer watches. Condition: • Dial: Original, unrestored, with patina consistent with age • Case: Well-preserved 9K gold case with hallmarks intact • Movement: In Perfect working condition, but a professional service is recommended for optimal performance • Strap: Very good condition Rarity & Value: Co-branded Rolex watches, particularly from prestigious retailers like Northern Goldsmiths, are highly collectible and rarely surface in the market. The rare 18-jewel movement, combined with its chronometer certification and 1939 gold hallmarks, makes this an exceptional timepiece. This original example from 1939 retains its period-correct features, making it a valuable addition for serious collectors of vintage Rolex timepieces.
  • Dimensions:
    Height: 0.4 in (1 cm)Diameter: 1.19 in (3 cm)
  • Materials and Techniques:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1939
  • Condition:
    Replacements made: Band has probably been replaced. Wear consistent with age and use. Minor fading. Excellent condition. More pictures and condition report upon request.
  • Seller Location:
    Encino, CA
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU881343410522

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