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Antique Victorian Pearl Star Turquoise Enamel Gold Brooch or Pendant

About the Item

A granulated jewel of a brooch, set in 18kt soft toned gold, showcases a star of gleaming natural pearls on turquoise blue enamel. Layers and texture were created by the jeweler's hand that placed an oval of granulation around the enamel, another of tiny granulation as an inner frame and additional granulation on the outed perimeter. Granulation was a manner of attaching small gold orbs to a jewelry without the use of solder. At back is a locket for a keepsake and a loop for a chain or ribbon so that the brooch can be worn as a pendant. Perfect condition that aged beautifully.. Measures 2 inches wide by 1 3/8 high. Granulation was an ancient, secret technique by which Etruscan jewelers in the 6th century melted gold into small orbs and attached them to a precious metal base. Going forward jewelers could not emulate this technique without melting down the entire jewel in the process. In the 19th century, Etruscan jewelry was discovered in excavations. A master Italian jeweler, Castellani, studied the Etruscan jewels and experimented until he found an alternate method of creating granulation. He was able to replicate the original jewels though not the original process.
  • Metal:
    18k Gold
  • Stone:
    Natural Pearl
  • Stone Cut:
    Oval Cut
  • Weight:
    18.9 g
  • Dimensions:
    Height: 1.38 in (35.06 mm)Width: 2 in (50.8 mm)
  • Style:
    Victorian
  • Place of Origin:
    United Kingdom
  • Period:
    1860-1869
  • Date of Manufacture:
    c1870
  • Condition:
  • Seller Location:
    Stamford, CT
  • Reference Number:
    Seller: #26011stDibs: LU322294383
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