Art Deco Diamond and Onyx Stylised Floral Brooch Circa 1925

An Art Deco stylised bird brooch by Cartier London circa 1925. The brooch is designed as a standing bird in profile, it is set with old European cut diamonds, a carved ruby as a wing, accents of onyx, buff top rubies and a cabochon ruby eye, the beak is red and black enamel, the legs onyx and a baguette diamond for feet, all set in platinum. Maker Cartier London Period circa 1925 Origin London Gemstones Carved ruby estimated approx 2cts 42 x old European cut diamonds estimated total 0.84cts 1 x round cabochon ruby 4 x buff top rubies 1 x baguette diamond Setting Platinum, signed Cartier London and numbered Weight 4.89ct Dimensions Length: 3.8cm/1.5 inches Height: 2cm/0.8 inches Condition Very good, some signs of wear consistent with age Directors Notes Cartier are famous for their wide array of jewelled bird brooches from the 1920s onwards, aligned with the fashions, feminine suits were becoming increasingly in vogue and jewellery houses were making beautiful brooches and pins to adorn those lapels. Cartier bird...

A beautiful pair of matching Art Deco diamond and platinum clips c.1925, each of triangular form and openwork design set with a mix of different diamond cuts including round, baguett...

An Art Deco amethyst and diamond jabot pin, circa 1925. This jabot pin brooch is set each end with large pear shaped briolette cut amethysts. The gemstones are connected by a single ...

An Art Deco citrine brooch by Cartier, circa 1930. The brooch is designed as an oval of golden round cut citrines interspersed with white old cut diamonds. A tapering line of channel...

A fabulous Art Deco ‘Un Cercle’ clip brooch by Van Cleef and Arpels c.1931, the brooch of open circular form set throughout with brilliant cut diamonds, embellished to each side with baguette diamonds and to the centre front with an angular geometric motif channel set with baguette and brilliant cut diamonds, the lower half with cut out details adding to the contrast between the curved and straight edges, all in platinum with a hinged opening, the top right quarter folding forwards to allow the brooch to be clipped in place. This is an iconic VCA design that has featured in books and exhibitions on the jewellery of this prestigious Maison. An archival advert for ‘Un Cercle’ shows how versatile the clip is, the clever mechanism allowing it to be pinned easily to hats, clothing and even an evening bag. Anywhere you need a touch of pure glamour, pin the ‘Circle’ and it is instantly elevated. Maker Van Cleef & Arpels Period Circa 1931 Origin French Gemstones 14 x baguette diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 1.2cts 81 x brilliant cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 6.4cts Setting Platinum signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Bte SGDC numbered and with workshop mark for Rubel Freres and French assay mark Weight 23 grams Dimensions 4.9cm / 1.9” in diameter 0.5cm / 0.2” wide at narrowest point tapering to 1.1cm / 0.43” at widest point Condition Very fine Literature & Exhibitions See ‘Set in Style – The Jewellery of Van Cleef & Arpels’, Sarah D. Coffin p.225 for an image of this brooch design alongside an archival advert for it. Directors Notes The names of Jean and Robert Rubel are relatively unknown today but during the 1920s and 30s they ran one of the most important jewellery workshops in Paris. Responsible for creating many beautiful and iconic jewels of the period, predominantly for Van Cleef & Arpels, the firm was one of the ‘unsung heroes’ of French haute joaillerie in the first half of the 20th Century. Before emigrating from Hungary to France, the brothers had run a successful jewellery shop in their native Budapest. They settled in Paris and opened a workshop at 22 rue Vivienne, not far from the Place Vendôme, in 1915. They gradually built their business and reputation for fine quality craftsmanship and within ten years they were working for some of the most prestigious Parisian jewellers. One such client was Van Cleef & Arpels who began working with Rubel Frères sometime around 1923 and the two firms would go on to form a close working relationship that would last for twenty years. They remained in Paris, quietly creating their masterpieces for sale in the Place Vendome boutiques, until 1939. It was then that they were offered the opportunity to move to America where Van Cleef & Arpels had recently opened offices. The two brothers were asked to set up and supervise a workshop in New York which would make the Van Cleef jewellery...

A charming gold and diamond stylised hummingbird brooch by Cartier c.1960s, the body finely modelled in 18ct yellow gold with a textured finish and carefully formed feathers, the bea...

Art Deco onyx, diamond and emerald cabochon brooch. Set with one hundred and six round old cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10....

An Art Deco diamond brooch, set with Edwardian-cut diamonds, in an open work, navette shaped plaque, mounted in platinum, circa 1925, with a gold pin, numbered 8994, with inventory n...

Centering an old European-cut diamond, accented by two single lines of calibré-cut sapphires, within an old European and single-cut diamond surround, completed by openwork scrolling ...

An Art Deco diamond and platinum bow brooch, finely pavé set with old style eight-cut diamonds, with cheneered gallery, mounted in platinum, with a white gold pin and roller catch, n...

An Art Deco Diamond, Onyx and Enamel Brooch, France The oval-shaped brooch set throughout with old European, old mine and single-cut diamonds, highlighted with lines of black enamel,...

Art Deco sapphire and diamond double clip brooch. Each set with one drop shape old cut natural unenhanced sapphire in an open back claw setting, two in total with a combined approxim...