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Henry Schreiner 1930s ProngSetCrystal Flora Spray Paisley Shadow Box Gilt Brooch
About the Item
Henry Schreiner, the Austrian-born blacksmith founder of Schreiner New York in 1932, handcrafted this multi-color prong-set Bavarian-crystal, stylized-flora spray, gold-gilt brass brooch before he began designing more extravagant silver-soldered settings in the early 1940s (see our other listing for the colorless crystal demi-parure).
For some of the leading fashion designers since the mid-1930s such as American Norman Norell and French Christian Dior, Henry Schreiner finished such custom-order pieces unsigned to accompany seasonal clothing ensembles in the tradition of European couture sets, such as those commissioned by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.
Like the more linear, airy and asymmetrical early Schreiner pieces that can be distinguished as those made by the founder, this elegant large brooch features sprawling overlapping wire arrangements with widely spaced soldered single or pre-cast double settings that appear scattered and delicate as if on thin branches.
The hand-arranged twisted wires are imperceptibly soldered to one or two edges of his recognizable "paisley shadowbox" frame (see online schreinery photos of a signed-Schreiner style Y0MEQN, as well as an earlier unsigned shadowbox MQV4EF with square eight-prong crystal settings that match our unsigned brooch). In contrast to the belt buckles that were among his first costume jewelry, Henry Schreiner sometimes assembled the metal strips of a brooch frame sideways on an edge for added depth and shadows. More so, the hinge for the long matching-metal pin and its safety clasp are neatly soldered along the back edge of the central strip without an extra support bar.
Further identifying the brooch, Schreiner's granddaughter published some family secrets about at least flower or strawberry brooches by Henry Schreiner: "always have the end of the stem/wire hammered to flatten it" (also published in Rhinestones! by Nancy N. Schiffer, see the schreinery photo of the long-stem flower brooch with a hammered end like ours, which is style GA357L with notable matching earrings that have one of the earliest kind of clips used by Henry Schreiner who died in 1954). Comparatively, similarly styled handcrafted flora-stem brooches, such as some produced later by the Schreiner family, Countess Cis Zoltowska, or Original by/Robert/Fashioncraft, do not have hammered ends.
Most of the signed brooches produced after Schreiner's death under the direction of his late daughter Terry and her designer husband Ambros Albert included a versatile pendant hook for specially-made chains, layered hook-and-eye construction, unfoiled inverted stones, and were often mixed with uniquely elongated plastic or painted aurora-borealis glass jewels in a chunkier tighter arrangement, such as the popular "ruffle" design with wavy settings first produced in 1957.
In typical Schreiner style, the custom-made Czech rhinestones in six faceted shapes and colors--foiled cranberry, pink, green, lime and grey, plus unfoiled aqua--are positioned at different angles in three dimensions for maximum sparkle. Given its over 80-year-old age, the palest foiled crystals are likely darker than when new, while the brass has minute gilt loss at edges and stem ends seen with a loupe.
Signed and unsigned Schreiner brooches with similar structure, arrangement and settings can be seen among the photos found in the book by Carole Tanenbaum and Eve Townsend, titled Schreiner: Masters of Twentieth-Century Costume Jewelry, as well as online at the schreinery site associated with the authors. We encourage you to cross-reference our Henry Schreiner pieces with the unsigned ones that they authenticated, along with these schreinery-published styles: Schreiner-signed ZJ3EPU linked to other similarly structured hammered-end brooches; as well as styles RQG55Y and 20RBGF-001 submitted or published by Tanenbaum that include the aforementioned unusual eight-pronged setting for square crystals like found on our brooch,
- Creator:
- Metal:Brass,Yellow Gold,Gilt Metal
- Stone:Crystal
- Stone Cut:Mixed Cut
- Weight:1.3 ounces (lb)
- Dimensions:Width: 3 in (76.2 mm)Depth: 1 in (25.4 mm)Length: 5 in (127 mm)
- Style:Artist
- Place of Origin:United States
- Period:1930-1939
- Date of Manufacture:late 1930s
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244220994172
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