Sterle Paris Sapphire Diamond Turquoise Flower Brooch, 1950s

About the Item

Spectacular and highly collectible 1950s brooch by Pierre Sterlé designed as flower in full bloom and featuring round blue sapphires, cabochon turquoise and round brilliant-cut diamonds, all set in 18 karat yellow gold. The brooch showcases many of the signature features of celebrated Sterlé mid-century jewelry design. It is signed Sterle Paris, numbered, with French hallmarks and makers mark. Known as the “couturier of jewelry,” Pierre Sterlé was inspired by the asymmetry of the natural world. This particular inspiration is fully realized in this brooch which is an exquisite naturalistic rendering of a slightly asymmetrical flower. Its finely-detailed and delicate textural stem is at a distinct angle to its turquoise mid-section of rounded contours and to the large blooming flower top. Sterlé design highlights this naturally occurring asymmetry, but he also expertly counter-balances it with the longest petals of the flower bloom which are leaning in the same direction as its stem. This brings an overall balance to the brooch composition while still successfully illustrating nature’s natural-occurring imbalance. Sterlé often paired the warm tones of yellow gold with vibrant gemstones and this is again wonderfully demonstrated in this brooch where lustrous shimmer of yellow gold serves as a rich background to the: strong blue hues of the flower sapphire pistil; to the scintillating white brilliant diamonds that are carried along its petals; and to the exotic burst of turquoise in the flower mid-section. Dynamic forms and flowing lines were another hallmark of Pierre Sterlé’s ingenious artistic designs and here this is beautifully illustrated in the flower petals which are masterfully contoured and whose sinuous flowing silhouettes alternate between smooth gold finish and graceful lines of diamonds. Truly a striking and singular piece of highly collectible 1950s design from one of the most innovative and iconic jewelers of that era. The brooch is of generous proportions with 3in (7.5cm) length and 2in (5cm) width. It is in excellent condition and features a double-pin back. No discounts are possible on this highly collectible and rare treasure.

Creator:
Pierre Sterlé
Metal:
18k Gold,Yellow Gold,Gold
Stone:
Diamond,Sapphire,Turquoise,White Diamond
Stone Cut:
Brilliant Cut
Dimensions:
Width: 2 in (50.8 mm)Length: 3 in (76.2 mm)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1950-1959
Date of Manufacture:
1950s
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Dallas, TX
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU2243212313842

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Pierre Sterlé

The loss of his father in World War I led to Pierre Sterlé’s mentorship under his uncle, who supported his ascension into the jewelry design world. At the height of his success, Sterlé designed for jewelry titans Boucheron, Chaumet and Ostertag. He won the De Beers Diamond Award three years in a row and operated out of an exclusive boutique in Paris that served the elite and royal families by appointment only.

His uncle was a Parisian jeweler on the rue de Castiglione. Sterlé started his own workshop at the age of 29 and spent five years designing for eminent Parisian jewelry houses on rue Sainte-Anne. By the mid-1940s, Sterlé had moved his atelier closer to the Place Vendôme to better serve his wealthy patrons, who included French author Colette, King Farouk of Egypt, the Maharani of Baroda and the Begum Aga Khan.

Sterlé had a remarkable ability to “knit gold” into woven masterpieces. His technical prowess was unmatched by anyone in Paris, and arguably the world. His “angel wire” technique, considered his signature style, incorporated gold into fine ropes that became link bracelets, cocktail rings and accents on decorative pins and brooches. The effect gave a sense of movement and life to the pieces, something Sterlé strived for in his attempts to make metal and precious gemstones less rigid and cold.

Two misfortunes derailed his business. The first was a failed venture into perfume, which resulted in having to sell many of his designs to Chaumet and New York jeweler Montreaux. Sterlé rebounded with a successful display at the 1966 Biennale in Paris, where he was the first modern jeweler ever invited. His second misstep was more damaging. He opened an exclusive shop on the rue Saint-Honoré in 1969. It was unsuccessful, and he was forced to declare bankruptcy, selling most of his stock to Chaumet in 1976.

Sterlé stayed on with the company as a consultant until his death two years later in 1978.

On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Pierre Sterlé rings, earrings, bracelets and more.