Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch

8ct gold and silver set Victorian, Diamond and Emerald Pendant or Brooch circa 1860 Floral and scroll motif design in 18ct yellow gold with emerald tips to the flowers with an articulated pear shaped diamond drop of approx 1.0ct. Very well matched Emeralds with large central stone. Three main transitional cut (old mine) diamonds of approx 0.25ct each (0.75cts in total). Mix of old mine and rose cut diamonds in an 18 carat yellow gold with “silver Set” channel setting , approx 3.0ct total. Total diamond weight: approx 4.75 ct, G/H/I, VS2-SI2. Setting diamonds in gold with a thin layer of silver, “silver set”, was a technique used in the Georgian/Victorian/Art Nouveau period as white coloured gold and platinum were not yet available. A very thin layer of silver was applied to the gold, on which the diamonds were set, to show them off to their best advantage (as the yellow would reflect and distort the white colour of the diamonds). In fitted period box, by Hunt and Roskell, Jewellers to Her Majesty Queen Victoria. Detachable 18ct brooch...

18ct gold & silver set Art Nouveau Diamond Opal Pendant/Brooch dated circa 1900 Five round opals with an articulated pear shaped opal drop, very well matched with lively play of colours and iridescence in reds, greens, blues and gold. Set in 18 carat yellow gold claw collets Two main transitional cut (old mine) diamonds 0.70ct. Mix of old mine and rose cut diamonds in an 18 carat yellow gold with “silver Set” channel setting , approx 1 ct total. G/H/I, VS2-SI2. Total diamond weight: approx 1.7carats Setting diamonds in gold with a thin layer of silver, “silver set”, was a technique used in the Georgian/Victorian/Art Nouveau period as white coloured gold and platinum were not yet available. A very thin layer of silver was applied to the gold, on which the diamonds were set, to show them off to their best advantage (as the yellow would reflect and distort the white colour of the diamonds). The Art Nouveau period was a short lived but worldwide movement which reached its peak at the end of the 19th Century and the first decade of the 20th Century. It had its roots in the Pre Raphaelite and Arts and Crafts movements in Britain in the 1860’s. Artists, such as William Morris, took their inspiration from the flora and fauna of nature and rejected the mass industrialisation and mechanisation of the Victorian age. Art Nouveau continued with this theme and has a distinctive appearance with soft, curved shapes and lines and often depicted natural designs such as flowers, birds and the female form. Before the Art Nouveau period, the emphasis had been to design pieces with an emphasis on gem stones, diamonds, rubies emeralds etc. However, during the Art Nouveau period, jewellers adopted the idea of using other semi–precious stones “from nature” such as agate, garnet opal, moonstone, aquamarine and experimented with a wide variety of new techniques e.g. enamelling. The “New Art” style became a worldwide movement encompassing all disciplines of the arts, and world class artists as far afield as Gaudi with his “modernisme” architecture in Spain, Louis Comfort Tiffany in New York with objects, Galle Glass in France and the Liberty & Co Archibald Knox designs in Britain, Jugendstil in Northern Europe and Faberge in Russia. The movement flared brightly but briefly and by 1910 it was already going out of style to be replaced by Art Deco. In fitted period box. Detachable 18ct brooch...

Victorian Pendant/Brooch in 15 carat yellow gold with rubies, pearls and diamonds in a starburst floral design, circa 1850 15 carat gold Ceylon rubies, half pearls and diamond set. Rubies, Ceylon, natural untreated, 0.6ct total (approx) Half Pearls, natural “Gulf” Pearls...

An exceptional, exquisite and well preserved Victorian brooch in the form of a bee with ruby eyes, sapphire and diamond wings, natural pearl and cabochon natural untreated Burma Sapp...

Fabulous Edwardian Period Equestrian Essex Crystal pendant/brooch in the shape of a beautifully detailed gold saddle. The cabochon crystal engrav...

An impressive vintage Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 14 karat yellow gold 'sailboat' tie clip; part of our diverse vintage jewelry and estate jewelry collections. This fine and ...

A Victorian 'Essex crystal' bumble bee brooch, circa 1880. The brooch is centred on a rock crystal reverse intaglio, hand carved and enamelled to depict a bumble bee, set in a rubover setting with an Etruscan style 18ct yellow gold border, to the reverse a locket back and a single pin to fasten. Period Victorian, circa 1880 Origin English Gemstones 1 x round carved rock crystal quartz cabochon Setting 18ct yellow gold Weight 24.3 grams Dimensions Diameter: 4cms/1.6" Condition Very good Directors Notes Originating in the mid-19th century in Belgium, attributed to artist Emile Marius Pradier, this reverse carving and painting technique then spread through Europe to England. A highly skilled hand was required to carve the reverse of the cabochons which are then carefully painted so that the finished result, when viewed through the dome, was as three dimensional and ‘life-like’ as possible. The term ‘Essex crystal’ is commonly used to describe this technique, however, this is due to an incorrect association with William Essex...

An outstanding antique, late Victorian era Essex crystal horse brooch or pin. A reverse carved and enamelled rock crystal cabochon depicting a bri...