
Onyx and Black Enamel Pendant Earrings
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Onyx and Black Enamel Pendant Earrings
About the Item
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Dimensions:Width: 0.75 in (19.05 mm)Length: 2.75 in (69.85 mm)
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1870
- Condition:
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:Seller: ER-210221stDibs: LU8922441612
About the Seller
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Located in New York, NY
This antique Victorian 15K gold demi-parure comprising pendant earrings and pendant brooch with chain is set with over 10.00 carats of cabochon almandine garnets. The elongated pendant earrings are designed as scrolling leaf motif tops, each with an oval cabochon garnet, flexibly suspending a reverse-tapering drop of floral and foliate form set with pear-shape and oval cabochon garnets, en suite with a conforming pendant brooch and delicate rectangular trace link chain. Still stylish today, the lightly voluminous, repoussé forms have an easy, gentle sway, while their soft bloomed gold and saturated red garnets enliven the eyes and face.
Product Details:
Item #: STE-20655
Artist: James W. Lyon, Edinburgh
Country: Scotland
Circa: 1860's
Dimensions: Earpendants: 3" length; Pendant Brooch: 2.5" length; Chain: 13.5" length
Materials: Cabochon almandine garnet (with approximate total weight 6.10 carats); Cabochon almandine garnet (with approximate total weight 4.05 carats); 15K Gold; fitted original box from James W. Lyon, Edinburgh.
Literature: A substantially similar demi-parure in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, is pictured in Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria, by Charlotte Gere and Judy Rudoe, p.17. The image of the demi-parure is accompanied by an image of a lithograph of a young Queen Victoria wearing a substantially similar demi-parure.
Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes:
Queen Victoria, whom the artistic record shows owned a substantially similar demi-paure, was deeply interested in couture and jewelry. Often, she chose to wear jewelry by British makers, in many cases work that was historically inspired and/or sentimental, knowing that her choices were closely observed by the public. These jewels were often relatively modest in value, and accessible to aspiring women of the British middle class.
Blood-red cabochon-cut gems have been known throughout history as "carbuncles", and their use in gold jewelry was highly popular in the sentimental, symbolism-loving Victorian period in England. In the 19th century, the new study of of archaeology had revealed that the garnet was a favorite precious stone of the Hellenistic Greeks, who centered carbuncles in wedding jewelry such as gold bracelets and garment appliqués fashioned...
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Item #: ER-21789
Country: France
Circa: 1925
Dimensions: 3.00" length, 0.50" width.
Materials: Lapis lazuli; Jadeite; 36 old single-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 0.86 carat); Platinum
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Signed: French assay marks for platinum, Victor Réard maker's mark on findings
Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes:
These delicate and lively pendant earrings are rare survivals from the Art Deco period. They were among the most beloved styles of the 1920s, their markedly elongated forms complementing short hair styles and vertical flowing gowns with flexible trim. Very often, 1920s earrings were shortened later, falling victim to changing hairstyles and couture. On the original findings is the mark of a specialist Parisian workshop located in the Marais, Victor Réard. The workshop was founded in 1921 as the ultimate successor to Achille Leroy. Historically, the workshop had produced refined parts and materials- enamels, secret closures, special necklace clasps, stone mountings, and other findings, for important firms such as Maison Boivin.
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