Ancient Agate Barrel Beads with Custom 22k Gold Granulated "Mulberry" Beads

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About the Item

Seventeen long agate barrel beads alternating with gold beads made by granulation, a process of joining together high carat gold without the use of solder. The agates are biconical with a distinct line in the center where the wide ends of the cone shapes meet. This distinctive profile is unique to beads made in the Indus valley civilization four thousand years ago in what is now Pakistan and India. This shape along with drill hole diameters of 3 mm to 4 mm are the unmistakable identification points for these beads, some of the finest lapidary ever done in the history of bead making. The end walls at the drill holes are often less than one millimeter thick making them very vulnerable to damage. The beads in this necklace are in remarkably good condition. There are also two small carnelian beads, one a bicone of 5.5 mm diameter and length of 3.5 mm and hole diameter of 2.8 mm; another which is 6 mm in diameter and 3.5 mm in length and hole diameter of 2.3 mm. The dimensions of the agate bicone tube beads are as follows (from top, right in first photograph): 1. Red jasper, - length 2.3 cm, width at center 6 mm, width at ends 4.3 mm, hole diameter 3.3 mm. 2. Pale gray quartz with white and orange bands, length 2.15 cm, width at center, 7.9 mm, end width, 5.1 mm, hole diameter, 3.2 mm. 3. Whitened from burial, white and orange banding, - length 2.3 mm, width at center 7 mm, end width 4.5 mm, hole diameter 3.2 mm. 4. Pale gray, pale brown, white, orange and red jasper banding, - length 2.85 cm, width at center 7.2 mm, end width 5.7 mm, hole diameter 4 mm. 5. Same material as No. 4. - length 2.85 cm, width at center 7.2 mm, end width 5 mm, hole diameter 4 mm. 6. Pale gray, slightly brown in the center, opaque white banding, - length 3.18 cm, width at center 8 mm, width at ends 5 mm, hole diameter 3.5 mm. 7. Reddish brown center, transparent quartz on one end, a thick white band and orange end on the other end, - length 3 cm, width at center 8.5 mm, end width 5 mm, hole diameter 3.8 mm. 8. Whitened from burial, red and orange bands and marking, - length 2.84 cm, width at center 8.9 mm, end width 5.7 mm, hole diameter 3.8 mm. 9. Reddish orange with transparent quartz and opaque quartz banding – there is a zone on one side with concentric banding encircling it and an opaque white spot with a translucent gray quartz in the center of the zone, - length 3 cm, width at center 1 cm, end width 6 mm, hole diameter 4.5 mm. (This splendid bead is the centerpiece of the necklace). 10. Reddish brown with transparent quartz banding, - length 3.23 cm, width at center 3.4 mm, end width 5.6 mm, hole diameter 3.8 mm. 11. Red jasper with translucent quartz, and opaque white banding, - length 3.23 cm, width at center 9.4 mm, end width 5 mm, hole diameter 4 mm. 12. Similar to nos. 4. & 5, but with some slight whitening from burial, - length 2.68 mm, width at center 7.8 mm, end width 5 mm, hole diameter 3.8 mm. 13. Translucent quartz with a brownish gray tone, one third of the bead is an opaque white with a curving border that is bordered by a band of translucent quartz and white banding, - length 3.19 cm, width at center 7.6 mm, end width 5.5 mm, hole diameter 3.5 mm. 14. Material similar to No. 10, - length 2.5 cm, width at center 7 mm, end width 6.5 mm, hole diameter 3.5 mm. 15. Material similar to No. 3, - length 2.65 cm, width at center 6.5 mm. Width at ends 4.5 mm, hole diameter 3.3 mm. 16. Material similar to No. 7, - length 1.93, width at center 7 mm, end width 4.9 mm, hole diameter 3.5 mm. 17. Material similar to No. 3, - length 2.85 cm, width at center 6 mm, end width 4.5 mm, hole diameter 3 mm. There are sixteen gold granulated beads that graduate in size becoming smaller at the back of the necklace. Each bead is composed of five stacked rings of eight grains, the largest in the center and decreasing in size from the center to the outsides. There are two eight grain ring beads at the back of the necklace. The beading tips are rings of wire with a granule on each side which connects to a stirrup of flattened wire. This provides the attachment for the hook and eye clasp. The necklace is 23 ¼ inches (59 cm) in length. The necklace weighs 51.5 grams.

Creator:
David Ebbinghouse
Metal:
22k Gold
Stone:
Agate,Carnelian
Stone Cut:
Bead
Weight:
51.5 g
Dimensions:
Length: 23.23 in (590 mm)
Style:
Artist
Place of Origin:
United States
Period:
15th Century and Earlier
Date of Manufacture:
Unknown
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. All of the stone beads in this piece are ancient. The goldwork is modern and was done by our expert goldsmith, Michael Winsten, to enhance the beauty of the ancient beads. See description for full details.
Seller Location:
Bloomington, IN
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU2425214784272

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