Antique 19th Century Muff Chain, English circa 1890

Antique Gold Necklace English Circa 1860. Composed of rectangular and circular-shaped links, partly decorated with ray design. Tongue clasp fastener conforming to link. Bale hook fit...

Antique Victorian 15K gold brooch, English C.1870. The brooch centering a dome with estruscan decoration surround of bead rondelle circlets and outer star border. Locket to reverse. ...

1970’s Georg Jensen Bent Gabrielsen long chain necklace. Paperclip design with hammered finish on each link. Design number 195A. Over the head neck...

Antique Gold Diamond Pearl Enamel Bar brooch C.1890. The brooch of elongated shape set in the centre with a small old cut diamond accented at the end with a small, small applied flor...

Antique English Silver Vinaigrette Birmingham 1834 G. Wheeler. The rectangular vinaigrette engine turned and foliate borders to cover and base. Interior and pierced grille gilded. Ha...

Archibald Knox for Liberty & Co, English C.1900. Tudric pewter and turquoise enamel basket, pierced honesty leaf decoration, open work sides and base, the handle embellished with lea...

Cut steel jewelry was at the height of fashion from the mid 1700s well into the 19th century. Originated in the 1700s. Popular from the Georgian through the Victorian eras. To make cut steel, melted horseshoe nails were formed into tiny faceted beads. Those small steel gemstone-like studs were then riveted one-by-one onto a base plate. It was an English invention that quickly travelled throughout the world. Each stud could have up to 15 facets, and in general the finer and older the piece the more facets the studs will have. Improvements in candles meant that grand events and entertaining could take place at night. As diamonds are diamonds and not available for everyone, and everyone wanted to shine, the popularity grew. Cut-steel provided a stylish and popular new jewelry material that could be enjoyed by everyone at all levels of society. It grew beyond a simple imitation to an art in its own right. The manufacturing was complex and the workmanship that was required highly skilled. These were not mass produced objects. The studs were made from decarbonated cast steel, which was case-hardened, then the studs were faceted by cutting against a pewter wheel. Next were then polished with first fine emery and a hard brush, and then by hand with a special putty. Finally they were riveted onto pierced base plates which had to be drilled and cut by hand, too. The main place of cut steel production was Birmingham, England. And there, one manufacturer stood out from all the rest: Matthew Boulton. He had been born in 1728 into the industry — his father manufactured small metal products. But the younger Boulton had a special talent for marrying the latest technology with the latest fashion. He also was continually expanding — he even founded a mint. He wined and dined with dignitaries and advocated for his steel products. Fortuitously, he became quite close with the Russian ambassador to Catherine the Great. When the ambassador toured the mint, Boulton made sure to send the Empress some of his cut-steel necklaces. In 1759, Louis XV “encouraged” the nobility to donate their gold and gemstone jewelry to help fund the Seven Years War. The popularity of cut steel in France may in part have been due to these sumptuary laws which limited who could wear precious metals and diamonds. Either you complied with the law and gave up your family jewels to be melted down for the war chest...

A gorgeous antique silver longuard chain or muff chain necklace. This is a lovely long length chain at 58" and can be easily wrapped around three time...

A beautifully made 9 karat yellow gold muff chain with handmade slider pendant. The 'double inserted curb chain' terminates with a yellow gold swivel type clasp which is working and secure. The handmade slider pendant comprises of 9 karat yellow and rose gold and contains an oval cut amethyst and two natural cultured pearls set amongst some fine black enamelling. The slider pendant allows a few different configurations for the necklace to be worn, and can be removed entirely if desired to enable a single very long...

This is a rare 41" original Pinchbeck chain from England. It was created near 1820 and is in excellent condition, with no damaged links, stains, or damage of any kind. The original c...

An impeccable rare antique, Victorian 10 karat yellow gold longuard chain. We love a good longuard chain here, such a versatile and wearable piece of jewellery, this one though is a...

Original and timeless tortoiseshell Victorian chain circa 1880s. Oversized Gucci style links with tortoise connectors and metal hook closure. 19.5" x 1.25". Excellent condition. Do...