Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 13

1950sRobertGoosensStyle CastOakLeaf Talisman BaroqueFauxPearls GoldChain Sautoir

$3,395
£2,586.47
€2,982.30
CA$4,751.23
A$5,308.71
CHF 2,777.04
MX$65,101.83
NOK 35,485.36
SEK 33,649.53
DKK 22,258.54
Shipping
Retrieving quote...
The 1stDibs Promise:
Authenticity Guarantee,
Money-Back Guarantee,
24-Hour Cancellation

About the Item

While contracted as an independent craftsman to create one-of-a-kind costume jewelry for French Masion Degorce from 1953 until it closed in 1957, Parisian goldsmith Robert Goosens (1927-2016) was initially commissioned by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel to craft one-of-a-kind Byzantine-style long decorative-chain necklaces with sculptural gilt-metal or faux-pearl charms, while she intended to layer many of them to accessorize her couture clothing for clients and herself. Relevant to the unclear designer of our vintage nine-pendant ribbed-chain sautoir with an unsigned gold-gilt silver barrel clasp and five unique kinds of intricately textured vermeil and baroque faux-pearl charms, a similar lost-wax-cast center pendant with three-lobed-foliate prongs also in the shape of oak leaves can be seen in the book (p.28), Bijoux de Haute Couture: Collection Robert Goossens, by Gilles Plazy and Chantal Bizot published in Paris in 2000. The same year, that Chanel-signed pendant necklace was auctioned by Christie's in a lot including an unsigned long chain sautoir attributed to Chanel. Further, another 1stDibs dealer currently has a $12,500 listing for an unsigned but book-published early-1950s faux-pearl sautoir for Chanel that also features intricate pinecone talismans like ours, but decorated with poured glass and crystals crafted by Maison Gripoix. When Chanel relaunched her post-war business ventures, Goosens soon became her favorite parurier before founding his eponymous Maison Goosens, whose venerable workshop later designed metal work for its own jewelry-and-furnishings brand Goosens Paris. Notably, Chanel did not add a brand signature to costume jewelry until the late 1950s, while some pieces prior to this by multiple paruriers are documented to lack any identification that Chanel was earlier known to stamp such as "France", "Made In France" and/or "Depose". Recently, a similar unsigned/unmarked longer chain sautoir with fewer filigree-and-pearl pendants that was believed to be by Robert Goosens for Chanel was sold on 1stDibs by another five-star seller for a higher price than ours.
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    2.7 ounces (lbs)
  • Dimensions:
    Diameter: 11 in (279.4 mm)Length: 34 in (863.6 mm)
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    mid-century
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244220169272

More From This Seller

View All
Couture Late1920s ChanelRousseletStyle Pearlescent Pendants SilverChain Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Featuring 12 large patinated pearlescent charms distinctly handcrafted by Parisian Louis Rousselet--the master glass-and-metal-ornament parurier for French couture fashion houses since 1920--this heavy silver chain necklace is made in the unique chunky style of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel that she introduced in the late 1920s. Capping Rousselet's signature Art-Deco-period handmade beads, his intricate multi-texture metal tops for these balls resemble organic shapes like the stems of acorns or fruit. In a bib arrangement, the duotone reflective heavy spheres--in black glass, blue-gray enameled galalith, and silver metal--conform to the cleavage of the wearer. Aside from chain jewelry commissioned by Chanel, Rousselet-style jewelry was usually constructed with thin wires or braided string to enable his beads to attract the most attention. Notably, this necklace fastens with an enlarged spring-ring clasp that became associated with increasingly heavy Chanel costume jewelry. Like 1920s Chanel jewelry by Rousselet, the necklace is both unmarked for French origin and unsigned. In subsequent decades, variations of chunky-charm chain necklaces were reproduced by Chanel with her other paruriers using different materials in which they specialized, such as a similar Chanel-signed piece in the 1960s by bronze-maker Maison Denez...
Category

Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Chain Necklaces

Materials

Brass, Gilt Metal, Silver

Couture CocoChanel-Rousselet-Style GlassGold FauxCarnelianPearl Torsade Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Beginning in the mid-1920s, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel collaborated with Parisian Louis Rousselet for a wide variety of handcrafted unsigned glass-beaded costume jewelry to compliment h...
Category

Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Carnelian, Pearl, Gold, Sterling Silver

MiriamHaskell Early SignatureGrapeCluster GlassPearl 1920s Pendant Necklace
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
Featuring the earliest white-swirled glass and enameled faux-pearl round beads handcrafted by Parisian lampwork-master Louis Rousselet for American entrepreneur Miriam Haskell and he...
Category

Vintage 1920s American Baroque Revival Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Silver

KineticPuppetStringsPinocchio GoldTexturedChainLink3Strand Early20thC. Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Acquired in The States and likely inspired by the American 1938-commissioned animated-feature movie, Pinocchio, that was produced for two years by Walt Disney based on an Italian children's story, this unsigned pre-WWII yellow-gold-gilt brass necklace with elegant draping chains features a three-inch-long playful kinetic multi-textured faux-carved-wood puppet-on-strings pendant with pointed hat, filigree-capped collar and waist, and flexible geometric-shaped limbs. Structured with three chains, notice the additional texture on the slightly larger links of the upper necklace. Unlike the movie, as the marionette on our necklace wears a lace-like collar resembling the original character illustrated by Enrico Mazzanti in the book by Tuscany-born Carlo Collodi, The Adventures of Pinocchio (1883), the necklace otherwise could date no earlier than the turn of the 19th Century when the spring-ring clasp was first in use. Since that time, Pinocchio became one of the most reimagined characters in literature based on multiple authors whose protagonist was a similar anthropomorphic puppet. To be conservative about its age as the necklace is in good condition, we suspect that Austrian-born Hattie Carnegie commissioned it to accessorize her "hat-to-hem" custom-made or ready-to-wear clothing that frequently featured amusing figural subjects with articulated parts, such as mythical creatures, fauna or clowns. Before her death at the age 69 in 1956, not all of the pieces in the costume-jewelry parures of her eponymous brand since 1919 were signed, while based on experience we assume that at least clip earrings accompanied this creative necklace...
Category

Early 20th Century American Artisan Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal, Brass

Trifari 1940s Philippe 4PieceParure CrystalFloraMotif GoldNecklaceEarringsBrooch
By Alfred Philippe for Trifari
Located in Chicago, IL
In the late 1940s, Trifari French-born artistic director Alfred Philippe, who had earlier created fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, designed this flora-motif crystal-s...
Category

Mid-20th Century American Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, Diamond, Gold, Gold Plate, Yellow Gold

MiriamHaskell 1926-1929 Shell Glass FauxPearl Crystal Silver Art Deco Sautoir
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
In the late 1920s during the Art-Deco period, this Miriam Haskell white mostly glass-beaded sautoir was created in New York City by her first designer Frank Hess. This uniquely hand-...
Category

Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Coral, Natural Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Pearl, Crystal, Silver

You May Also Like

Antique 14K and Silver Top Diamond Grape and Leaf Necklace c. 1900s
Located in New York, NY
Fabulous Victorian diamond grape and leaf motif drop pendant necklace crafted in 14K yellow gold and silver top with a handmade 14K yellow gold box chain pendant set with 442 old min...
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold, Gold, 14k Gold, Silver

V-SHAPED NECKLACE, early 1940's, gold plated, handmade pearls, Made in France
Located in Stuttgart, DE
V-SHAPED necklace, Made in France early 1940's, gold plated and nice handmade pearls. 2 individual gold-plated strands, each 3.5 cm wide, bordered with small pearls. The bottom 6 cm...
Category

Vintage 1940s French Art Deco Link Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Gold Plate

Victorian 14K Gold Pearl Necklace
Located in Flushing, NY
Victorian 14K Gold Pearl Necklace Approximate Dimensions: 41 cm ( Length) 0.2 - 4 cm (Width) 22.5 grams in weight.
Category

Early 20th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold

Wonderful Antique 15ct Yellow Gold Pearl Necklace
Located in Chipping Campden, GB
Wonderful Antique 15ct Yellow Gold Pearl Necklace with Starburst Detachable Pendant The hook for the starburst folds up when not in use, exceptional quality The item comes without...
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Artist Drop Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Style Seed Pearl and 18 Carat Yellow Gold Woven Necklace Circa 1920
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive antique seed pearl and 18 karat yellow gold Art Nouveau style necklace; part of our diverse collection of 1920s jewelry. This fine and impressive...
Category

Vintage 1920s Unknown Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Yellow Gold

Antique 14k Yellow Gold Natural Pearl Lavalier Necklace
Located in New York, NY
This antique lavalier necklace is crafted in 14k yellow gold and features a luminous pearl suspended elegantly from a delicate drop design. The warm gold complements the pearl’s soft...
Category

20th Century Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold