
Antique Victorian Suffragette Necklace, circa 1900
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Antique Victorian Suffragette Necklace, circa 1900
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The Romantic period (1837-1860) marked the start of the Victorian Era (1837-1901), which reflected the love of a nation for its young queen and her love for her husband, Prince Albert. The jewelry of the period tended toward sentimental, celebrating love, friendship, and affection, often symbolic of their happy marriage. Victorians were especially creative in imbuing romance into their jewels, treasuring forms like lockets, hair jewels made from locks of hair, cameos, acrostic jewels spelling out secret love notes, and mourning jewels when Queen Victoria went into permanent mourning upon Prince Albert’s death.
This unique Victorian revival necklace features amethyst with a vivid purple color estimated to be of Siberian origin, and pearls set in 14k yellow gold arranged in two infinite halos around a center stone. The featured faceted oval shape amethyst weighs approximately 26 carats and is set with a profusion of prongs—16 in total—surrounded by 27 pearls accented with a scalloped border with milgrain, and 12 oval shape amethysts arranged lengthwise with an approximate weight of 16.2 carats total. The outer halo of smaller amethysts beautifully mirrors the center stone in cut and proportion, set similarly in 14K yellow gold with many prongs, this time 8 per stone.
Amethyst and seed pearls were among the most popular gemstones used during the 19th century with two noted gem cutting styles including the rose-cut, a round shape with a domed top and flat bottom, and the cabochon, with a rounded top and flat bottom. The shapes of the gems in this necklace pay homage to these cuts in look and silhouette. The purple variety of crystalline quartz, amethyst was a popular jewel for its velvety richness and deep color in the Victorian period of romance and sentimentality. When Queen Victoria wore a mauve silk gown to the Royal Exhibition in 1862, heart shape amethyst jewelry became fashionable as love tokens.
The pendant is attached to a beautifully crafted 22-inch (55.88 cm) chain of textured wide links, embellished with one larger oval amethyst weighing approximately 3.3 carats and set lengthwise. Single amethyst beads, each flanked by two pearls, adorn the chain at intervals for a total of ten 5 x 5 mm amethyst beads and twenty 2-3 mm pearls. The pendant is 1.75 inches in length (4.45 cm).
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