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Trifari Philippe1940s JellyBelly & PearlFlowers GoldPendants SignedChainNecklace

About the Item

Among the most in-demand designs by Trifari artistic director Alfred Philippe were his flora and "jelly belly" fauna jewelry from the 1940s. Both iconic styles can be mixed as the gold pendants for this signed chain necklace created by the French-born goldsmith, who had been recognized since the 1920s for his fine-jewelry work at Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. The removable rare "jelly belly" fauna pendant is a stylized golden bird, whose belly and tail is handcrafted from Lucite with the appearance of clear lead crystal. With a similarly swirled bail, the non-removable flowers-and-leaves gold pendant is more intricate--depicting two intertwined daisies with invisibly-set natural seed pearls for their petals. The necklace clasp is signed with the post-1936 crown-topped Trifari text on its tag, whose hole fastens to a spring-ring. While the flora pendant slides all along the thin chain, it cannot come off either end--unlike the bird that can be transferred to the buyer's own necklace. The jump-ring attached to the bird allows the two pendants to be worn side-by-side, which enables the duo to appear like the "dove of peace" with a flora sprig. Unlike the Trifari "jelly belly" brooches, the smaller pendants are unmarked and so far more difficult to find if separated from a necklace. The year 1944 was handwritten on the box that stored this set when we acquired it. Trifari began using its patented shiny non-tarnishing metal alloy Trifarium as a base metal for gold plating in 1948, while earlier pendants in the 1940s were vermeil like these appear to be.

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