Edwardian circa 1910, P.G. Dodd, London: 14.69 ct Diamond Platinum Tiara

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About the Item

Few pieces encapsulate the glory of times past as perfectly as the tiara. Even though the tiara’s formal function as adornment and distinction of the noble class has grown obsolete by now, we may still wear and admire such pieces for their beauty alone. The piece at hand is an especially beautiful example of Edwardian craftsmanship – made in that last, glorious decade before the onset of WWI, when the English aristocracy still celebrated lavishly, and when makers of art and jewellery alike were striving for utmost refinement. The entire surface of the tiara is covered in diamonds in historical cuts, counting 509 diamonds overall and weighing in at 14,69 ct. The preciousness of the diamonds is mirrored by the metal in which they have so generously been set: platinum. At the time of the tiara’s making, platinum was far more expensive than gold, which is why we so rarely find it used in massive pieces, but rather more often as a thin layer on gold. Only from the 1930s onwards, it became common to fashion jewellery from massive platinum. The materials thus indicate that the tiara was made on request: no goldsmith would have dared to use these precious metals in such amounts in a project with no committed buyer at hand yet. Only the tiara’s fundament, wrapped in its original velvet ribbon for comfortable wear, is made of a base metal. In its shape and vertical layout, the piece is slightly reminiscent of the Russian kokoshnik; a fashionable shape for tiaras to follow in the early 20th century. The underlying reason for its popularity, of course, leads us to the Royal court: In 1888, when the Princess of Wales celebrated her silver wedding anniversary, she wished for a gift which would remind her of her dear sister, the Russian tsarina Maria Feodorovna. The ladies at court indulged her wish by giving her the so-called kokoshnik tiara. In 1901, 13 years later, Edward Prince of Wales was crowned King Edward VII of England, and the Princess of Wales became Queen Alexandra. In the following years, bandeau-shaped tiaras and others that mirrored the traditional shape of the kokoshnik and thus the Queen Alexandra’s tiara, grew ever more popular. The tiara at hand is another play on the kokoshnik theme, though softer, more subtle, less geometrical. With its curved lines and floral shapes, the piece is typical of the so-called garland style: garlands of flowers and foliate scrolls, leaves, swirls, executed in platinum or platinum-covered gold and typically set with diamonds, make up this aesthetic which dominated the last stretch of the Belle Époque. The impression is one of ethereal lightness, worthy of the new century which had just been entered with such high hopes. However, more than just its stylistic characteristics tell us that the tiara was made in Edwardian England. Its original box has been preserved and tells us the name of the jeweller where it was once sold: the name reads P. G. Dodd & Son, and it takes us to London, more specifically to Leadenhall Street. In this box, the tiara has survived for over a century in beautiful condition. MATERIALS 509 diamonds, 8/8 cut and old European cut, overall approx. 14,69 ct, Near Colourless (Top Wesselton, G – Wesselton, H), si–pi Platinum Foundation of base metal, wrapped in velvet ribbon DIMENSIONS Max. height 3,0 cm Max. diameter when adjusted to box around 13,0 cm – diameter is adjustable CERTIFICATE Delivery with detailed independent certificate of the DEGEB (Deutsche Gesellschaft für Edelsteinbewertung/German Association for Gemstone Evaluation) in Idar-Oberstein dated 27.03.2018. Estimated value: 25.320,- Euro.

Metal:
Platinum,Base Metal
Stone:
Diamond
Stone Cut:
Old European Cut
Weight:
66.6 g
Dimensions:
Height: 1.19 in (30 mm)Diameter: 5.12 in (130 mm)
Style:
Belle Époque
Place of Origin:
United Kingdom
Period:
Early 20th Century
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1910
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Berlin, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: 17-19051stDibs: LU156426537172

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